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| oil light coming on; 1993 Geo Metro convertible automatic | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jun 24 2010, 12:48 PM (3,343 Views) | |
| GeoStalker | Jun 24 2010, 12:48 PM Post #1 |
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"Chicks dig me and guys think I'm cool."
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Okay, here's the deal. I've consulted with Johnny Mullet on this and have his ideas but I want to open it up to the forum. I have a 93 Geo Metro convertible with automatic transmission. Mullet and I recently rebuilt the head and it drives nice. However, there seems to be a light indicator issue. Occasionally after driving it for some distance the BRAKE light will faintly come on. My first diagnosis.....check the brake fluid Dot 3 levels, but that checks out as normal. The more pressing issue is that after driving it for a spell the OIL light will come on, but only when the car is in DRIVE and only when I'm braking and at a stop, like at a red light. If I shift it up into park the light goes off. Then when I shift it back into drive and have my foot firmly on the brake it comes back on. Back into park....light goes off. And it flickers too, it's not a solid light. I checked oil levels obviously and they are perfect. Any ideas? I thought maybe it was an electrical issue but maybe it's an oil pump pressure issue. But why would it matter if I were in drive or park for the light to come on? Doesn't oil pump regardless of gear? 90metro Edited by GeoStalker, Jun 24 2010, 12:50 PM.
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| bansheetaz | Jun 24 2010, 02:35 PM Post #2 |
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sounds like a electrical ground problem or an oil sending unit problem. does the engine clatter when the light comes on?
Edited by bansheetaz, Jun 24 2010, 02:37 PM.
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| GeoStalker | Jun 24 2010, 03:21 PM Post #3 |
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"Chicks dig me and guys think I'm cool."
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The engine does not clatter nor shutter. It seems to be running fine. The temperature guage is unaffected as well. If it were a ground problem, I'm wondering why it only happens after I've driven it for 5-10 miles or so? Weird, but I'm sure I'll figure it out. I'm actually taking it to get the oil pressure checked this weekend. Assuming that's good, I'm checking off the oil pump as a possibility and leaning more toward the ground. Maybe it's TCM related? Because it only happens when it's in drive with the foot brake pushed, but when I push it to park the light goes off. Edited by GeoStalker, Jun 24 2010, 03:22 PM.
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| wikityler | Jun 24 2010, 03:59 PM Post #4 |
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Some say...
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The oil pressure light, like all the other cluster indicator lights, receives power from the IGN fuse via the BLK/WHT wire on cluster connector 1. The oil switch then grounds this lamp to the block. With someone in the on the brake in drive, so the light illuminates, disconnect the wire from the oil pressure switch, and test for continuity to ground. If there is continuity, then either you do have an oil problem, or the switch needs to be replaced. If there isn't, then I'd inspect the traces on the back of the cluster. |
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| snowfish | Jun 24 2010, 04:48 PM Post #5 |
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Basic GearHead
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I bet Mr. Mullet recommended a new sending unit. For a ten dollar bill, plus or minus, at least that's eliminated. Unrelated project....my Jeeps oil gauge was dropping to 5psi or less when warmed up sitting at a stop light. While moving it would rise but either dance around or read only 20psi. Sometimes 15psi, sometimes 40psi, but always drop to near zero when stopped in drive. Of course panic set in, but after I settled down, I replaced the sender. $15.00 later I had 40+psi cruising & 20psi while stopped in drive. Not the greatest but at 180,000 mile, I can live with it. And so can the Jeep. Slip in a new sender. I'd be surprised if it Doesn't do the trick. All you're out is a couple beers and some hand cleaner.
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| Memphis metro | Jun 24 2010, 05:00 PM Post #6 |
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I was with snowfish on the sender for the oil but I do find it strage the brake light is mal too. Also screw lights! Give me guages!. Edited by Memphis metro, Jun 24 2010, 05:01 PM.
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| GeoStalker | Jun 24 2010, 06:32 PM Post #7 |
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"Chicks dig me and guys think I'm cool."
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anybody got a pic of the sender unit and where it's located? |
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| Memphis metro | Jun 24 2010, 08:16 PM Post #8 |
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I had a picture on some thread but cannot locate it now, that is if my 95 is the same as your model. Mine is a guage though. It should not be hard to find, look for a one wire sensor which is usually small. Do you have a guage as well or just the light? . Edited by Memphis metro, Jun 24 2010, 08:18 PM.
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| JellyBeanDriver | Jun 24 2010, 10:51 PM Post #9 |
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When in gear the RPM's drop. oil pressure is dependent on engine RPM. Driving it for a while thins the oil and the pressure goes down too. Pushing on the brake will also load down the engine due to the added load from the alternator. I know my Metro idles rougher when I'm pressing on the brakes. The oil filter is after the oil pump and may be clogged or restrictive. They have a valve that opens when there is too much pressure but it still 'could' be restrictive enough to be your problem too. It would be a good to put a real gauge on it to see what the pressure is like. A switch usually only closes when the pressure is REALLY low (like 3psi) Edited by JellyBeanDriver, Jun 24 2010, 10:53 PM.
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| snowfish | Jun 24 2010, 11:14 PM Post #10 |
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Basic GearHead
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There's a pretty good shot in the how to pull a G10 thread. It's down by the oil filter covered with a big rubber boot. Simple spade connector is under the boot. You can see it, from top, looking between the exhaust manifold. I just had my hands on it. My donor car is now peeled down ready to pull the output shafts, unhook the mounts, and lift the engine out as of tonight. (project thread coming shortly) |
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| mwebb | Jun 24 2010, 11:23 PM Post #11 |
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FOG
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brake light dimly glowing when Engine RPM is low is NOT caused by low oil pressure . or a bad oil pressure sender . or a clogged oil pickup screen <<<< my swag you may have two problems you need to do voltage drop testing on the heavy cables between the alternator and the battery and measure AC voltage on the battery , with all possible loads on at 2k rpm . under load AC volts must be under 500mv better if under 100mv , if it is 1 volt or more , there is a bad diode in the alternator |
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| JellyBeanDriver | Jun 24 2010, 11:52 PM Post #12 |
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I was thinking it might be an electrical problem but couldn't figure out how the circuit on the other end of the low oil pressure bulb on the dash would be partially completed. That wire is only going to the oil pressure switch isn't it? I was thinking his switch is also faulty and doesn't have a clean transition from the ON to OFF state. |
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| wikityler | Jun 25 2010, 02:41 AM Post #13 |
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Some say...
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The oil pressure switch (or sending unit) closes at 4.5psi or less, and is located above and to the right of the oil filter. |
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| snowfish | Jun 25 2010, 11:15 AM Post #14 |
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Basic GearHead
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Took this before coming to work for the location of the sender![]() ![]() Here the plug
Edited by snowfish, Jun 25 2010, 12:03 PM.
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| JellyBeanDriver | Jun 27 2010, 05:15 PM Post #15 |
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Did you get it figured out? |
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lights! Give me guages!

7:38 PM Jul 10