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Very low compression in only 1 cylinder; Is my engine dead ?
Topic Started: Aug 20 2010, 10:08 AM (3,735 Views)
argroupinc
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Is my engine w/123k miles on it dead ? - just bought the car; - compression is 60 in #3, 165 in #2, 145 in #1 ; - it shakes when idling ( didn't recall that when I bought it but it must have); -just replaced a failing exhaust w/ new thinking back pressure problem; - has "stored code" of #3 cylinder problem - It starts/runs at freeways speed, blows nothing; - there is no pressure at startup in the radiator so I'm thinking head gasket is fine; - with good compression in center cylinder I'm thinking its not timing belt slip lest all 3 would be low ? Interior and exterior look new so I hate to sell for parts but I can't afford a rebuild. Is my engine dead & bound for "parts" bin ?
Edited by argroupinc, Aug 20 2010, 10:21 AM.
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me and my metro


How many miles? Rings and exhaust valves are not that expensive or difficult to do. :)
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argroupinc
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oops...123k miles on it
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Jittney
Anchorage 92 XFi

Welcome to the forum, argroupinc :)
Kudos on already checking compression :thumb
I had low compression in #2 and thought I'd end up with a rebuild.
I did the seafoam treatment and after 1000 miles, #2 was almost up to the other two.
So, my suggestion is to try 'cleaning it out' first.
Bad Bent usually suggests replacing old hoses around the TB, as they become brittle and cracked over time.
Keep us posted. :type
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mcmancuso
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All these engines shake at idle, its normal. If the shaking seems excessive you may want to check your motor mounts. You have a burnt exhaust valve in #3, its very common, you need a head job, its easy to replace the valve yourself, 3tech has stainless steel valves which last much longer than stock.
bad valve looks like this:
Posted Image pic borrowed from obaja
If you advance your ignition timing to 8-10* it will drastically decrease the heat the exhaust valves are subject to and will also help in preventing this from happening again. Here's a how to for the head: http://geometroforum.com/topic/638797/
Its is very easy, the minimum of what you need to buy is: head gasket, head bolts, 1 exhaust valve.
Edited by mcmancuso, Aug 20 2010, 10:22 AM.
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mcmancuso
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if you end up doing the work, its usually a good idea while you're in there to replace the timing belt and tensioner, and the cam and crank seals. just good preventative maintenance
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Bad Bent
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Welcome to the forum, argroupinc! :coffee

First, how much can you afford? Granted it's not rusted out, repairing it will save you money in the long run at today's gas prices.

The "official" compression test procedure is at How To - Compression Test. And the wet test would yield more information.

My cheap thinking is a stuck valve/lifter and 5 oz of Seafoam in the oil might help, but usually doesn't, but has made some chatter go away for moi. I keep the combustion chamber clean with an occasional water mist treatment.

Might give this thread the weekend for more informed responses, :lol :lol and do a compression wet test, warm and WOT.
Edited by Bad Bent, Aug 20 2010, 10:27 AM.
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captain1.0


(Is my engine dead & bound for "parts" bin ?)

If your car is in good shape body wise, dont break it down for parts! Park it till you can get up the money to fix it. Put it on a trailer and drag it to the mullets Garage! If you want to even go further then drag it to my garage.
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

And there is some large fellow named Hacksaw in your neighborhood who might have some time to help out. Especially if you have to pull the engine... which you should NOT have to.

Posted Image I love this picture. :popcorn :lol
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bogs
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Duct tape heals all wounds

Welcome to the forums, that pic really is awesome :lol
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argroupinc
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Wow, many excellent quick replies............ 1.verify my compression test is valid results, 2. seafoam ( had thought techron then dismissed idea ) 3. compare costs of labor materials for repair/rebuild/replace a) parts or b) all of head 4. when apart replace other general maintenance items for longevity. 5. if all else fails call "Hacksaw" to chop up car so it will fit in the back of my S10 for ease in hauling to where ever....thank you.
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Coche Blanco
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What is your other car? I can almost guarantee it will be "cheaper" to fix the engine.
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

ebay.com/geo+98+gasket - $60 +/- for a set?

www.store.partsdinosaur.com/ - G10 GEO / Chevy Metro 1.0 Pistons & Rings Package $86.94

geometroforum.com/pages/3Tech - G10 rebuild kit; Includes 6 SS valves, 6 bronze manganese guides, and 6 viton seals. $100; Hand polished valves add $15 [G10 SS non polished (both int/exh valves are SS) Set of 6 valves $60 Exhaust only $30] and he lives near Buffalo, NY so shipping is less.
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argroupinc
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"Other car" is...I'm on my 2nd 89 Probe 2.2 5spd - first was hit/totalled....both cost under $600 & deliver 40mpg faithfully. I like high mpg, but not for mpg sake, for total cost of car/gas/repairs sake if you follow. There's nothing sillier to me than seeing an ad for a high mpg car that costs more than I'd ever save on gas putting 250k on it. Thanks for the question & continued inputs/feedback. They are all very much appreciated.
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Coche Blanco
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argroupinc
Aug 20 2010, 01:10 PM
"Other car" is...I'm on my 2nd 89 Probe 2.2 5spd - first was hit/totalled....both cost under $600 & deliver 40mpg faithfully. I like high mpg, but not for mpg sake, for total cost of car/gas/repairs sake if you follow. There's nothing sillier to me than seeing an ad for a high mpg car that costs more than I'd ever save on gas putting 250k on it. Thanks for the question & continued inputs/feedback. They are all very much appreciated.
40mpg is high enough, I wouldn't worry about a high mpg car.

If your car was 20mpg or even 30mpg, you would save money a lot faster. Half the guys here have a <20mpg truck they don't drive because they have the Geo.
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