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| Frame Welding; Control Arm to Frame | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Aug 20 2010, 11:34 AM (4,117 Views) | |
| superduty5.9 | Aug 24 2010, 12:33 AM Post #16 |
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Metro Defender
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I'm with JM on this one. I would stop where you are now and chemically treat your metal. I would then overlap everything you are trying to patch be 3-4". I would then clean up your welds with a grinder then treat everything again and then undercoat or truck bed liner coat your patch. Whatever is there now wont hurt anything.
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| Rooy | Aug 24 2010, 01:31 AM Post #17 |
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The problem I see right now is where to weld onto the lower piece. It's too rusty as is to weld to that lip where he wants to. Grinding on it and seeing if there's good metal on that lip is not going to hurt anything. Wrapping the metal down around onto the bottom might be an option too. If a section of metal is more rust than it is steel, cutting or grinding it down is not going to compromise anything. Then you know that the rust is not going to spread. Also keep in mind that JM's repair did fail after a couple years. |
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| snowfish | Aug 24 2010, 07:00 AM Post #18 |
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Basic GearHead
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Thanks Duff (& everyone). I've been using to many words in the search. Looks like you've had real time experience with this too. Nice job! Carmech really whacked it down. Not sure if I need to get quite that far, but now I know there's a grinding ahead of me.I believe Mr. Mullets welds were fine. It failed in another area. Ah the rust belt! What I wouldn't give for a nice, sun baked, rust free shell! Geoman..........To the Man Cave! (tonight) Edited by snowfish, Aug 24 2010, 09:50 AM.
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| bogs | Aug 24 2010, 09:57 AM Post #19 |
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Duct tape heals all wounds
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They don't call rust 'cancer' for nothing, you have to a.) remove all of it as best you can, and b.) treat the rest of the metal to make sure it has the worst possible chance of returning. I'm with Rooy on this one, from what your showing pics of, there is a bit more grinding to be done. Good luck on the repair . |
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| superduty5.9 | Aug 24 2010, 10:33 AM Post #20 |
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Metro Defender
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Yes carmech97's thread is a good one. Has a lot of detailed pics. The only thing is I would have fabbed some bracing or something with as much metal as he cut off. The frame horns may have already spread with that much rust. I would have used a come along to pull in the lower control mounts and braced it and then started repairing the rust. As long as the control arm mounts are where they need to be then cut away at the cancer. One thing I'm going to do on my 95 ( in the process of an engine swap and repairing pass side frame rot) is when I'm all done is to drill a very small hole at the top of frame horn so I can put the tip of a gear oil jug filled with used engine oil in it. So I can give it a shot of oil here and there to keep it from rusting from the inside out. I'll also put a small rubber plug ( from an old wheel cylinder) in the hole. Here is a link to carmech97's thread. Snowfish whatever you do is going to make it better!
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| c140flyer | Aug 24 2010, 11:17 AM Post #21 |
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I plan to do the same thing. Wondering if injecting some POR 15 instead of oil would be better. Any suggestions? Larry |
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| jeff | Aug 24 2010, 11:29 AM Post #22 |
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Snowfish on one of my Metro s(the 95) looking at the frame horn at the front, there are 3pieces of metal spot welded together from the factory. That is where I ground ALL 3 pieces flush, & then welded those pieces as 1unit. I've seen others lay the weld bead on top of 1layer @ the frame horn, only to breakage & dismay. pm me if you need more info |
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| jeff | Aug 24 2010, 11:31 AM Post #23 |
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Oh, no disrespect, but I've had no breakage . I also built Mack truck cabs, Auto-Car , etc. (production MIG Welder among other jobs @ the plant). |
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| carmech97 | Aug 24 2010, 11:46 AM Post #24 |
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Backyard Mechanic
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@ superduty5.9: The oiling you mentioned is a great idea! ![]() When I finish my project (hopefully sooner than later...money has been tight for a while), I will do the same. |
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| snowfish | Aug 24 2010, 03:18 PM Post #25 |
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Basic GearHead
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Nipping the front lip will be my first target tonight. Then see if there is any salvageable metal on the inside lip. There is some issues on the bottom side, not visible in the photos, as well. The search for good metal will continue there too. This may turn out to be "carmech" style. before it's all said and done.
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| batever | Aug 24 2010, 08:04 PM Post #26 |
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New Member
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It's good to understand how rust works. In iron, a molecule of FeO3 or rust is larger than the surrounding molecules of iron. so it forces microscopic gaps into the material, allowing more H2O and O2 into the metal to form even more Feo3. this is why iron rust always protrudes form the surface, and also it is why steel and iron can rust all the way through: the rust starts on the surface and proceeds deeper, deeper, and deeper over time, as new metal is exposed by the existing rust to water and oxygen, unless it is either chemically converted or mechanically removed, and then the surface treated in such a way as to inhibit or prevent future rust formation. This could be as simple as painting it to keep water and o2 from contacting the metal surface. (in aluminum and in some other metals, the "rust" or aluminum oxide is not larger than the aluminum itself, so the 'rust" stays on the surface and doesn't progress). Any rust near your weld area or near a critical area should, if possible, be either removed or converted before welding, so it can't progress to the weld and re-weaken the structure. I hope this is a helpful general comment. I leave the more practical details to the other members who know these cars. P.S., I love that house jack in the picture. You know that's not going to drop on you, that's for sure! Edited by batever, Aug 24 2010, 08:16 PM.
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| snowfish | Aug 24 2010, 09:03 PM Post #27 |
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Basic GearHead
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By chemically change the rust, you mean apply a product like Eastwoods rust converter? http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-converter.html?srccode=ga110070&gclid=CPiww5XC06MCFdFO5wodYRAPwA I see it comes in both brush on and aerosol. If this stuff really works, it might not be a bad idea to peal back the good side and coat the inside as well. I seem to have come down with some nasty crud/virus, or something. Looks like I'll be out of commission until about Thursday, I'm figuring. At least it will give me time to gather more information and advise.Thanks for noticing my Dad's old house jacks. We've lifted some pretty big stuff with those! Plus they make a great jack stands. Cheers for now.
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Looks like you've had real time experience with this too. Nice job! Carmech really whacked it down. Not sure if I need to get quite that far, but now I know there's a grinding ahead of me.


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9:15 AM Jul 11