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1997 1.3L Engine Saga; Gary's Exodus
Topic Started: Sep 6 2010, 11:53 AM (5,392 Views)
Stately
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Geo cheerleader

Ok, think I've finally made it through all five stages of grief after discovering Gary's fatal illness (shattered piston skirt):

1 - Denial: All I need to do is put the oil pan back on and everything will be like it used to. After all, Gary's working fine--just makes a tapping noise. Even gets 26mpg city . . .

2 - Anger: Why Gary? He doesn't deserve this! Nooooooooo!

3 - Bargaining: Oh, pleeeeze let there be a quick/easy/cheap way to bring him back!

4 - Depression: Alcohol is a depressant?

5 - Acceptance: Man up, write the postmortem, and get on with the business at hand--decapitating him! Ugh.


So here's the plan--I will periodically post pictures/progress of the rebuild, as well as questions as they arise. (Bear in mind I had never even dropped an oil pan until a few days ago, or a tranny pan until last month, or popped a valve cover until four months ago!) This will be a "Rebuild By a Dummy" type saga--if I can do it, anyone can!

First, some study of The Good Book Posted Image

and Johnny Mullet's head repair demos, as well as lots of before pix (thanks, geoblues, for suggestions).

Will keep you posted on Gary's progress.

Question: have to do this rebuild outside, is there any reason not to leave the oil pan off for awhile? (Can't image spiders, mice, raccoons, etc. would want to set up camp inside an oily block, but who knows?)

Thanks, all!
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carmech97
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Backyard Mechanic
[ *  *  *  * ]
I would wrap the engine up with a large garbage bag or a sheet of plastic to keep any water, dirt, etc from getting in there when you are not working on it.
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Bill CNC
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Hmm, ... been in your shoes.

Like carmech97 said, ... wrap that baby up good. Outside dust will kill your newly built engine quicker than you can say a four letter word.

Oh, ... and it will not be cheap. Mine was about $1200.00 but that was because I had a high end machine shop do all the machining and some extras to it.

Your looking at $800 - $1,000 for a total rebuild. :smackface
Edited by Bill CNC, Sep 6 2010, 02:07 PM.
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Stately
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carmech97
Sep 6 2010, 01:00 PM
I would wrap the engine up with a large garbage bag or a sheet of plastic to keep any water, dirt, etc from getting in there when you are not working on it.
Thanks, good advice.
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Stately
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Bill CNC
Sep 6 2010, 02:06 PM
Hmm, ... been in your shoes.

Like carmech97 said, ... wrap that baby up good. Outside dust will kill your newly built engine quicker than you can say a four letter word.

Oh, ... and it will not be cheap. Mine was about $1200.00 but that was because I had a high end machine shop do all the machining and some extras to it.

Your looking at $800 - $1,000 for a total rebuild. :smackface
Wrapping it up makes sense.

$800 - $1,000 ????

Why so much? (But thanks for the heads-up!)

My figures (so far) were:

$70 - 4 new pistons
$149 - 4 new ring sets
$37 - head gasket
$23 - timing belt
$27 - water pump
$150 - valve job at machinist (already have the 8 new valves)

$456 Total (without shipping)

And if the valves in head look good I could shave that by seating them myself without a grind.
Hoping only honing will be needed on cyl #3, but even with a rebore, would it be that much?

What am I missing?

Thanks!
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Bill CNC
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Are you planning on just throwing in all those parts in a unprepared block that has seen how many miles, .... 150, 000? Your block needs to be checked and machined.

Also you should replace the timing belt with miles like that. You are overlooking many, many things like a complete gasket set, new thermostat, hoses and so on. You probably could reuse some of the stuff, ... but then you might like to gamble a $100.00 bill, for the chance to win $5.00, so in my opinion, ... your $450.00 will not even come close.

If so, ... you will be starting all over again, ... VERY, very soon, so why even rebuild it?

IF your going to rebuild the engine, ... Do it right, a half ass rebuild will only prove one thing, ... You like putting band-aid strips on compound fractures. :banghead

Sorry ...
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Stately
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Bill CNC:

Are you planning on just throwing in all those parts in a unprepared block that has seen how many miles, .... 150, 000? Your block needs to be checked and machined.

Was planning on doing that only if the cylinder walls were still in good shape, and with honing.

Also you should replace the timing belt with miles like that. You are overlooking many, many things like a complete gasket set, new thermostat, hoses and so on.

Timing belt was on the list; additional gaskets, thermostat and hoses should be added--thanks.

IF your going to rebuild the engine, ... Do it right, a half ass rebuild will only prove one thing, ... You like putting band-aid strips on compound fractures. :banghead

Agreed, but right AND on a budget (if possible). If it were to cost $1200, might as well get a used/rebuilt engine with a 7yr/100,000mile warrantee to swap in and save all that labor!

Sorry ...

Your sympathy is greatly appreciated!
Edited by Stately, Sep 6 2010, 04:34 PM.
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Stately
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I LOVE Gary!

If the money were there, this is what I'd do (with a pump for the torque converter):

Highway Speeds Conversion: $13,000.00 for 120VDC / $15,000.00 for 144VDC: These systems, with lead acid batteries, can be installed on your choice of either the VW Type I, Geo Metro, or Chevy S-10, This system is a step up from the NHEV. The original Manual Transmission will be used with the Electric Motor and Controller, and you will attain a 40+ Mile Range, a 70+ MPH Cruising Speed, Top Speed of about 90mph depending on the weight of your vehicle, driving habits and driving conditions. Other components include dual or quad on board 110VAC or 220VAC battery chargers, battery balancing system, battery monitoring system & e-meter, Battery Pack, and a variety of other parts...
$$$ Expected Pay off at 50K miles $$$


Gary weighs the same as a Smart "Clown Car" ForTwo (1808lbs), but is way more sleek, stable, aerodynamic, and SAFE. Would make a killer electric!
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PHILL4U
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phill4u
[ *  * ]
same car i just changed the head gasket but i jacked up the vacuum lines and now i get the code p0400 and don't have the vacuum diagram to fix it.
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Bill CNC
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Stately
Sep 6 2010, 06:29 PM
I LOVE Gary!

If the money were there, this is what I'd do (with a pump for the torque converter):

Highway Speeds Conversion: $13,000.00 for 120VDC / $15,000.00 for 144VDC: These systems, with lead acid batteries, can be installed on your choice of either the VW Type I, Geo Metro, or Chevy S-10, This system is a step up from the NHEV. The original Manual Transmission will be used with the Electric Motor and Controller, and you will attain a 40+ Mile Range, a 70+ MPH Cruising Speed, Top Speed of about 90mph depending on the weight of your vehicle, driving habits and driving conditions. Other components include dual or quad on board 110VAC or 220VAC battery chargers, battery balancing system, battery monitoring system & e-meter, Battery Pack, and a variety of other parts...
$$$ Expected Pay off at 50K miles $$$


Gary weighs the same as a Smart "Clown Car" ForTwo (1808lbs), but is way more sleek, stable, aerodynamic, and SAFE. Would make a killer electric!
I have yet to find someone rebuild an engine that did not have a budget.

Mine cost 1200. because I went through the whole thing, ... Top, to bottom. I also had the engine balanced with a few other things. Was it a nice chunk of change, ... YES! But it has all worked out in the end.

I took a motor, ... same as yours and went from stock stated MPG of 36 or so to 43 - 48 MPG. Driving 200 miles a day, ... now you can see the savings in the long run.

BTW, ... If I were you, ... I also would replace the oil pump. They don't last forever and you might as well consider that the HEART of your engine. If it's not up to par, ...

Like I said, ... to do it right and for it to last over time, ... it will cost you $800 - $1,000.

BTW, ... 50,000 a year in my Geo, ... no problem. I share that yearly 52,000 yearly trek, ... with my truck. They seem to last longer. :thumb
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Bill CNC
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Stately
Sep 6 2010, 06:29 PM
I LOVE Gary!

If the money were there, this is what I'd do (with a pump for the torque converter):

Gary weighs the same as a Smart "Clown Car" ForTwo (1808lbs), but is way more sleek, stable, aerodynamic, and SAFE. Would make a killer electric!
A Geo safe, ... Pure Myth!

The Smart Car is hands down far more safer than our Geo's.
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Stately
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Geo cheerleader

Bill CNC
Sep 6 2010, 08:25 PM
Stately
Sep 6 2010, 06:29 PM
I LOVE Gary!

If the money were there, this is what I'd do (with a pump for the torque converter):

Gary weighs the same as a Smart "Clown Car" ForTwo (1808lbs), but is way more sleek, stable, aerodynamic, and SAFE. Would make a killer electric!
A Geo safe, ... Pure Myth!

The Smart Car is hands down far more safer than our Geo's.
WHAT?

Don't believe that for a second!

Maybe safer than my Suzuki SV650 . . .
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Stately
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Geo cheerleader

Stately
Sep 6 2010, 11:04 PM
Bill CNC
Sep 6 2010, 08:25 PM
Stately
Sep 6 2010, 06:29 PM
I LOVE Gary!

If the money were there, this is what I'd do (with a pump for the torque converter):

Gary weighs the same as a Smart "Clown Car" ForTwo (1808lbs), but is way more sleek, stable, aerodynamic, and SAFE. Would make a killer electric!
A Geo safe, ... Pure Myth!

The Smart Car is hands down far more safer than our Geo's.
WHAT?

Don't believe that for a second!

Maybe safer than my Suzuki SV650 . . .
Ok, I take that back. I'd be safer on my SV650 than in a clown car.
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Stately
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Geo cheerleader

A good friend (who helped my son with the initial lifter swap--thanks again Reid!), having gone down this path many times before with Metros, suggested looking into used/rebuilt engines. I had assumed that would cost way more than a DIY rebuild, but put some inquiries out just to be sure.

Turns out I can get one for $550 (includes shipping, no core dep) with a 1 year warrantee.

Clearly there pros and cons to going this route.

What do you folks think?

Thanks!
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bogs
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Duct tape heals all wounds

I'd say run with it, specially if its a jdm deal at that price.
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