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1997 1.3L Engine Saga; Gary's Exodus
Topic Started: Sep 6 2010, 11:53 AM (5,395 Views)
bogs
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Duct tape heals all wounds

Now that Lambo is WAY too cool :lol You have given me a new goal in life BB, thanks man :thumb
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Stately
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Bad Bent
Oct 4 2010, 01:46 AM
Posted Image Ferrari

Posted Image Lamborghini
Those look just like the *tiny* 1" radio controlled cars popular 10 years ago or so!!! :thumb
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Stately
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High expectation meets harsh reality:

Pros-

• the engine actually arrived (after 4 weeks!)
• exhaust manifold? yes!
• now there's time to prep it

Cons-

• its really dirty! (and sandy)
• paperwork says its a '96, but think they're compatible with '97
• missing distributor claimed to be there (but gladly trade for exhaust manifold)

The delivery truck (semi w/ 28' trailer) couldn't even get close to the back of the house, so had to take a cart to it a block away. Gary's "new" engine was the only thing in the back!

The driver (a skinny dude) and I had to dead lift it down from the 5' back of the truck onto the cart (shipping lading stated 250lbs). It started raining heavily. He drove off, I pushed the cart home.

Then had to put it in the basement--down 5 stairs outside, through a small door, in the rain, alone (whimper).

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Dig the ghetto tie-downs!

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Next step, verify its the right thing and not missing major parts. Does it look right?

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If everything's a go, there's at least two weeks to prep. Will clean it up, take the bad stuff off, etc.

Guess the recently purchased exhaust manifold gasket should be returned!
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

Well, I'm glad you did not pay $700 for the engine. :thumb :thumb
That's like $400 and shipping which is acceptable, eh.

I suspect the distributor was broken in transit., looks like they did you a TB bridge delete "favor." :ermm: The EGR modulator is off so that's why I suspect the distributor was broken off and removed, besides the mount surface looks way to clean compared to the rest of the engine.

I'm glad you have the time to give it the love and care I know you will. ^o) :coffee

I'm no good with year/models/engines.
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Woodie
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95, 96, 97 are all the same engine. Sensors and controls may vary though, so you're better off using the entire intake manifold and distributor from your original engine.
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metroschultz
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Please just call me; "Schultz"

:+1
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jellybean


if you are intending to run that motor as is you will of course find out where all the oil is coming from. i know you want to do it on the cheap but now is the best and cheapest time to tear it down. did you buy a running motor or a rebuildable core? from the appearance its a core, just to much oil every where. at least do a compression test on the floor before you install. that motor does not give me a warm and fuzzy feeling
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Stately
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jellybean
Oct 6 2010, 08:53 PM
if you are intending to run that motor as is you will of course find out where all the oil is coming from. i know you want to do it on the cheap but now is the best and cheapest time to tear it down. did you buy a running motor or a rebuildable core? from the appearance its a core, just to much oil every where. at least do a compression test on the floor before you install. that motor does not give me a warm and fuzzy feeling
Me either. Have to admit a *huge* relief when scraping off grunge around distributor hole and seeing the beloved "G13B" to tell me at least it's the right block! (90 day return) Billed as running motor!

How do you test compression on the floor? Thx.
Edited by Stately, Oct 6 2010, 10:47 PM.
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Stately
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jellybean
Oct 6 2010, 08:53 PM
if you are intending to run that motor as is you will of course find out where all the oil is coming from. i know you want to do it on the cheap but now is the best and cheapest time to tear it down. did you buy a running motor or a rebuildable core? from the appearance its a core, just to much oil every where. at least do a compression test on the floor before you install. that motor does not give me a warm and fuzzy feeling
Thanks again for that assessment. Just got off the phone with the company saying I wouldn't touch it without getting $250 back. We settled on a $220 refund, bringing its price to $330. And a 90 day return.
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mcmancuso
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Nice! Good price on the engine there :D
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Stately
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Hey y'all-

A few more questions re: Gary's new-used motor needing prepping--and ADVthanksANCE for answering!

• Does the starter mount entirely to the transmission (which it looks like), and if so how do you do a bench compression test?

Posted Image Do all Geo blocks say "Made in Japan", or is this from a Swift?

Note Oil cap: Posted Image

• The fourth bolt along the top of exhaust manifold is clearly missing, is there one below it also missing? It's gone on Gary so don't know if it should be there. Given at least one's been gone, should the manifold gasket be replaced before tightening it back up?

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• There's a crack in the timing belt cover, should Gary's be used at engine swap time?

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• Here are a couple more pix of engine (hanging like a side of beef). Should I just punt on this one given issues and oil leaks, or at least take it to compression check? Thanks again!

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Spock
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Live Long and Prosper.

At the very least I'd say do a compression test. If I remember correctly on the G10 the starter just bolts to the engine bellhousing, the 1.3 should be similar. I'd find where that oily mess is coming from before I put that motor in the car. Yes, I'd use Gary's timing belt cover. What's the refund policy on this motor? It looks like a project, not just a motor swap.

I'd say if its got good compression, press forward.
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Stately
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MetroRob
Oct 11 2010, 09:06 PM
At the very least I'd say do a compression test. If I remember correctly on the G10 the starter just bolts to the engine bellhousing, the 1.3 should be similar. I'd find where that oily mess is coming from before I put that motor in the car. Yes, I'd use Gary's timing belt cover. What's the refund policy on this motor? It looks like a project, not just a motor swap.

I'd say if its got good compression, press forward.
Ok, got a refurb starter to test compression (returnable if engine bad). However, it does look like it bolts to the transmission bellhousing (from what I could see in Gary, and photos).

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Could the starter be lashed with tiedowns tight enough to safely check compression?

BTW -- at least the engine isn't seized, can rotate crank by hand (a little)

And yes, way more of a project than simple engine swap.

Thanks!
Edited by Stately, Oct 12 2010, 06:52 PM.
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poorman1


You could do a leakdown test, in fact you can turn over the motor with a breaker bar with the plugs in.
you can tell a lot as each cyl comes up on the compression stroke they should all feel the same
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Coche Blanco
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Troll Certified

Wow, what kind of business is that place running?
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