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Clutch Service Life; How long did it last?
Topic Started: Sep 18 2010, 10:35 AM (2,546 Views)
bogs
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Duct tape heals all wounds

Ah, well there you go, I never even heard of the show that started it :lol
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Ryan
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Ryan

Coche Blanco
Sep 19 2010, 10:31 AM
Never heard of that
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bogs
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Duct tape heals all wounds

Thankyou, now I don't feel all alone :lol
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Woodie
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Coche Blanco
Sep 19 2010, 10:31 AM
Oh okay. So it's the new "42" http://encyclopediadramatica.com/42


Back to clutch life, I've only ever replaced one. That was at 160K miles and it only was replaced because the engine was out getting rebuilt, would have gone 200K easily.
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nerys
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Grr

that site is freaking great!
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Murf 59
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With a good, new clutch. You should have no problems running the revs that hi. I do on the Rocket. When needed and it has no issues. Unless you are drag racing or something like that. You should not be able to slip a fresh clutch. So running out 3rd hard is no sweat. Its not the holding a gear really hard that creates wear. The major wear comes in when you are going for the next higher gear. Hard. Allow the disk and sycn combo to do their work. Before you nail it to the floor.
Edited by Murf 59, Sep 24 2010, 11:11 PM.
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kyledye25
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[ *  *  * ]
My 93 xfi just started slipping this weekend. I am assuming because one its the original and 2 it was shortly after I drove up a very steep hill. Here in western PA the hills are crazy. So this Metro has been up here for the last 5-7 years I think. bought it off a buddy that got it from his grandparents that live in Florida. Great car but I do think it has been ran decently hard. With the hills here and what not. And I will admit I got it cheap and do run it hard sometimes. Really only when need be...pulling out on the highways and stuff. Any way to help it last longer? I just changed the tranny fluid about 2 months ago and put in synthetic. Ran fine after and shifting wasnt nearly as sticky as before. Really helped I think. But this weekend I went up a super SUPER steeeep hill.....was fine I thought. Then I went to pull out on the highway and went to basically floor it and it revved up and slipped pretty good. Now its only when its hot, wont slip right after starting....but will after about 20-30 min of driving. And today I noticed it really only does it when I am in a higher gear and go to push on the gas....when you really dont want to downshift. But now I have to downshift and stay in a lower gear. Seems to be ok that way. But I was wondering if there is a way or some additive to the fluid I can add to help the slipping a little. I know I need to replace the clutch and I plan on it but I just dont have the money right now. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks.
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Rooy


The clutch is outside of the transmission, so adding anything to the fluid will not do anything. Once the friction material on the clutch disc wears down enough to slip, there's no bringing it back.

However, I would check to make sure you have some slack in the clutch cable on top of the transmission. If there's no free play (cable is pulled tight), that will keep the clutch from being fully engaged and cause it to slip.
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kyledye25
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Looked at the clutch cable it looks fine and I really dont want to mess with it yet. But I did find the reason for the slipping clutch.....because it stopped and I thought it was wierd. My cam shaft seal is leaking a little oil. Which goes down and on top of the clutch. Found out that it was a semi commen problem. I have a tech at work and his dad has four metros. Said that happened to his too. And sure enough it looks like thats the problem. Added some no leak - no smoke stuff I found at walmart. See if it helps slow the leak. Cleaned up the motor and tranny really good with degreaser. But right now its not slipping so hopfully I can get the leaking slowed down or stopped. Its not bad really because it never drops below the low line on the dipstick between oil changes....but I guess its enough. So thats the problem. Glad I dont have to replace the clutch soon....well real soon. I can wait till it really is slipping and wont go back to normal.
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Rooy


Cam seal is on the other end of the motor (timing belt side). Are you thinking of the rear main crank seal (end of the crankshaft, transmission side, behind the flywheel)?

Or do you have oil dripping down from around the distributor? This is a common leak and it's a simple o-ring. on the end of the distributor shaft.
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mcmancuso
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Sounds like you've got a leaky distributor O ring, there are instructions on replacing it here:
http://geometroforum.com/topic/3207197/1

The part is:
Dorman part number is #64213. The specifications for the o-ring are as follows: Inside Diameter 15/16" Outside Diameter 1-3/16" Thickness 1/8"

DO this, it is a $0.75 part, and will take you 15 minutes.

DRAIN THE STOP LEAK OUT OF YOUR CAR, PUT IN NEW OIL AND FILTER. That stuff WILL damage the engine, it clogs up tiny passageways, which metros are full of in the progress of stopping a leak. You'll probably end up with stuck lifters in short order.

Also if oil is actually getting on the clutch, you really need to clean it off with brake cleaner or the like, and deglaze the friction plate and flywheel.
Edited by mcmancuso, Sep 24 2010, 06:38 PM.
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Rooy


It depends on what kind of stop leak product was used. If it was thick stuff, then by all means drain it out. But I believe they make stuff that's thin too. It works by using seal swelling additives.
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chads4dr


I changed my clutch at 158,000 miles....it was the original, started slipping badly when trying to accelerate especially merging onto a highway.

The tranny started dying at 170,000 miles, it had a bad whine/moan noise on decel. It was some kind of bearing I think.

When I did my rebuild I replaced my trans with one that had 100,000.....also I converted to a 4cyl flywheel, thus allowing me to use a 4cyl clutch disk, this nets you a larger clutch disk (presumably longer life), a stronger "bite" and pedal feel, and oddly the whole combo is lighter than the 3 cyl setup.
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Murf 59
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Hey Chad, ain't seen you here in a while.
Back when I was learning about gears and trans. One of the very old school guys told me that pouring a Coke on a slipping friction disk will help if you are out in the middle of nowhere. I guess something in the Coke reacts with the material in the disk. He swore up and down by this. No this is not just to see if I can get you to pour a Coke on your clutch. I know the materials have changed in the last 30 years. But I have good reason to trust my friend. I am not even sure how you would get it onto the disk in our cars. Since it has no opening that you can see the disk in. You can see the back side of the fly wheel. But not the disk. Hope this helps.
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Woodie
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No way the distributor seal leak is going to get on the clutch, simply cannot happen.

Change your oil today to get that stop leak out, it's a bad idea.

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