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| Clutch Service Life; How long did it last? | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Sep 18 2010, 10:35 AM (2,544 Views) | |
| kyledye25 | Sep 26 2010, 07:33 AM Post #31 |
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Not sure that is all that bad of an idea. Yes its thick but its mixing in with all the oil. So its not like its all that thick. I have had it in the car now for about 500 miles. Also put some in my 93 Lexus ES300 that the wife drives. And have used it in other cars. They really wouldnt sell it if it harmed motors all the time. Or if it caused all kinds of problems. So far its the only one I have found to actually help a little. All the others I have found do nothing. So ill keep it in there and if something happens then lesson learned. But so far its been perfectly fine. Still think its oil leaking not the dizzy. |
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| Woodie | Sep 27 2010, 04:07 AM Post #32 |
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Oh no? They sell radiator StopLeak don't they? It absolutely causes problems, but they sell it all over the place. It stops up you leak, then six month later, it stops up your thermostat, then your heater core, then your radiator........... All additives are shortcuts with shortcomings. Find out what the actual problem is. |
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| kyledye25 | Sep 29 2010, 06:25 PM Post #33 |
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I understand there are "short cuts"....the radiator leaking or something really is a easy fix. But taking a motor apart and replacing gaskets and rings is major. This is only to help swell up those gaskets and rings. So how bad can it be? I know the radiator stop leak stuff is bad...that makes sense. How are you going to patch up a crack in metal or plastic? or a hole? But you can certainly swell up rubber seals for a time frame. Eventually the problem will arrise again and probably be worse. But at this time I dont have the money nor experience to start pulling the motor apart one weekend and get it all back together for work again on monday. If it messes up the motor then so be it. But so far so good. Leaking has gone down in both the Geo and my Lexus ES300 with 250k on it. Not completely stopped but made a major difference....especially in the Lexus. And I have one more bottle that I will use most like on the next oil change. I have done my research and the amount of problems are far far less then the amount of people that were satisfied and had zero problems. I had a 94 Integra and used the same stuff. That was about 4 years ago now....stopped leaking oil all together with only two bottles used. Got rid of the car a year after the leaking stopped....it had 223k on it when it was sold. So from experience it works. And so does sea foam even though some stupid morons say it causes problems. But I understand your concern. I wouldnt have tried these products with out asking around and doing my research. |
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| mcmancuso | Sep 29 2010, 06:37 PM Post #34 |
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2 screws is all it takes to change the distributor o ring, its right on top of the engine, and easier than changing a sparkplug. |
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| chads4dr | Sep 29 2010, 08:27 PM Post #35 |
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See My Stop Leak Post......... http://geometroforum.com/topic/3101654/1/#new
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| kyledye25 | Oct 3 2010, 06:21 PM Post #36 |
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looks like the stop leak added to a problem, a bad one. The friend I bought the car off of runs mobil 1 full synthetic. And did his grand parents when they owned it. Now I do. So I imagine my motor looks a bit better then that. Im not worried. If something happens I am man enough to eat my words and admit I was wrong. But till then Im using it. So far so good. Very good results for me. Sorry yours ended up like that. |
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| kyledye25 | Oct 3 2010, 06:27 PM Post #37 |
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Just looked at the link. Guess it wasnt your car. Plus a completely different motor....seen that right away. I think my motor is perfectly fine. And I will probably replace the distributor o ring here shortly. Anyone know the size? The mechanics at work have sets of them and I can snag one anytime. |
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| todaugen | Oct 3 2010, 06:53 PM Post #38 |
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My 99 did the same thing--rattled in neutral. I found the gearshift control shaft through bolt and nut was missing its nut. I put a lock nut on it and it doesn't rattle anymore. The gearshifter still feels loose, kind of wobbly, but I think that can be fixed with a bigger shim (according to someone else on the forums) or replacing some or all of the bushings. ![]() ![]() (apologies about picture quality. My scanner is down.) Edited by todaugen, Oct 3 2010, 07:04 PM.
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| Bad Bent | Oct 4 2010, 12:08 AM Post #39 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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In the link it says... "The common o-ring number used for this deal is #213. The full Dorman part number is #64213. The specifications for the o-ring are as follows: Inside Diameter 15/16" Outside Diameter 1-3/16" Thickness 1/8"." |
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| pvt_pwn | Oct 6 2010, 08:06 PM Post #40 |
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Diesel Technician
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Both of my metros are due for a new clutch...or at least I think so. They both like to shudder on take-off. ![]() The '97's clutch disc has 2006 written on it, not sure if that's the year it was manufactured or what, but it needs replacement. I think the previous owners said the car itself has over 200k, but 4--almost 5 years ago? Doesn't seem like it had a long clutch life. Maybe I'm going to have to do it right, and see what I can get out of her...
Edited by pvt_pwn, Oct 6 2010, 08:07 PM.
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| Woodie | Oct 7 2010, 06:26 AM Post #41 |
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Could be a bad clutch, or it could be that the flywheel had hot spots from when the first clutch burned out, and they just slapped a new one on there without resurfacing the flywheel. |
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| kyledye25 | Nov 20 2010, 08:52 PM Post #42 |
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What would be the best clutch kit to buy for my 93 Metro XFi? I may get a lightened fly wheel as well. But I want a good clutch kit....something better then the OEM one. Any suggestions? I heard Saches make a good kit. Any one experience any others? |
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| Coche Blanco | Nov 20 2010, 09:05 PM Post #43 |
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Troll Certified
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Best clutch is a g13 clutch w/g13 stuff.
Edited by Coche Blanco, Nov 20 2010, 09:05 PM.
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| JellyBeanDriver | Nov 20 2010, 09:10 PM Post #44 |
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Sachs is a good kit. Just put one it. They used a Valeo disc, but it's great quality. Cheap too from O'Reilly's |
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