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Fuel Pressure Regulator
Topic Started: Oct 22 2010, 03:48 PM (3,815 Views)
nerys
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Grr

Ok one of the ideas we are brewing up over at ecomodder is maybe I don't have enough "fuel pressure" to run properly on E10 which might explain my huge drop in FE. I don't think so but I am game for experimentation.

SO its been suggested I increase fuel pressure and see what happens.

First what is the stock factory correct fuel pressure for a 94 xfi?

also will THIS work with my geo 180574229674 (ebay)

its looks cool its adjustable and its blue and CHEAP. but is it FI compatible?
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mwebb
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FOG

bad idea
it will not do what that poster on ecomodder thinks it will do
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nerys
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Grr

I know but it will shut him up if I do it and the results do not get him what he wants plus it would be cool to have a built in pressure gauge. especially at $24 - it would be a neat "gadget" upgrade.

but not someone said its built into the TBI so I could not alter it. is this true? also they say it adjusts the pressure from a sensor or ecu or something?
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mwebb
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FOG

it is controlled by a valve with a spring behind it and vacuum applied to that
it is designed to keep the difference between intake vacuum and fuel pressure at a constant value

high vacuum = lower fuel pressure
low vacuum = higher fuel pressure

since 15psi (14.7 psi) and 30" hg both are equal to BAROmetric pressure at sea level 1 psi = about 2" hg

the difference will be 20" HG hi to low or 10psi in theory as a general rule of thumb
different systems have
different specifications

on Geo Metros there is no fuel pressure sensor or electronic pressure control
==============================
to shut "him" up just ask him to document his theory
or tell "him" wearing a pink dress and a green ponytailed wig will improve his fuel economy and you refuse to respond to his suggestions until he implements your solution and gets back to you with "his" test results
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nerys
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Grr

ahh so I can't screw around with the regulator then.

what is the high and low PSI for the metro? IE when I check fuel pressure what should it be?

"or tell "him" wearing a pink dress and a green ponytailed wig will improve his fuel economy and you refuse to respond to his suggestions until he implements your solution and gets back to you with "his" test results "

I want pictures......
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Manny
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Yes! a Costa Rican member

Hi again guys!

Hope you're doing fine!! Then I have a question and I know Mr Webb may help me out to address it...

How should I determinate the pressure regulator is bad... without being confused and believe it´s the fuel pump?
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nerys
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Grr

pressure gauge??
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poorman1


Install fuel pressure gauge and turn on key, if in specs regulator is good.

If low restrict (pinch) return line, if pressure rises reg is at fault
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Manny
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Yes! a Costa Rican member

Update: I installed a pressure gauge next to TB got 20 psi steady, no matter acceleration... so I think both of them are working fine.

I've been dealing with erratic idle and power when accelerating and goes away when past 3-4k rpm, but I know it's because of that acceleration that I can´t hear the issue

Thanks for your inputs!! :)
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

If it's the engine rpm being erratic, that' usually a vacuum leak that can be detected by spraying starting fluid or carb. cleaner on vacuum hoses and connections, When the rpm goes up after a spray, there's your leak. OR it might be the clutch slipping, like when you accelerate the rpm goes up but not much happens and you back off the gas? Someone suggested rolling up to a wall, parked, and if you let the clutch out the engine should stall. :dunno Never tried it myself.

Under very low, almost black, light... Use a timing light connected to a plug wire and aim the light at the TB to see if the spray pattern is consistent? Also spray a light and fine mist of slightly soapy water on the plug wires, distributor or any suspect electrical current loss.
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Manny
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Yes! a Costa Rican member

Good advise BB! I'll spray carb cleaner then...

What does the soapy water do?

Actually car has new plugs, o2 sensor, new distr. rotor, cap in excellent condition, fuel injector has been ultrasonic cleaned, new fuel filter, steady 20 psi on fuel pump but spark plug wires due to they have no resistance yet and no more than 1 year old.
Yesterday I tested the coil and got 2 ohm resistance on primary point, some websites states we do need to test secondary resistance between spark discharge port and positive wire of engine coil, it should provide between 5k - 17k resistance, otherwise the coil needs to be replaced... I've got no readings checking secondary resistance, however I don't know how accurate is the test to end up replacing the coil because of that.

The car sometimes correct the issue itself but for a very small period... then hesitates again and my vacuum needle jumps and play between 18 - 10 inconsistently... my cylinder head is fine, no broken springs or something.

Thanks again for all your help!
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mwebb
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FOG

...."then hesitates again and my vacuum needle jumps and play between 18 - 10 inconsistently... "....

that is a leaking valve
sorry

if you are using the wrong oil which would be anything other than 0w30 or 5w30
drain it and get the correct oil in it
in south America 5w30 is probably a better choice

for testing , any oil is ok
for use
should be ACEA A3 B3 - B4 synthetic ..... i am not really at all familiar with south of the border oils availability

if you already have the correct oil then you are going to need a valve job
==============================
soapy water sprayed on secondary spark components will quickly ID any part that is breaking down due to moisture
HYDRO SCOPE
best used in the dark . any visible sparks mark the location of the bad component

do NOT replace your coil
DO NOT use an ohm meter to test the coil , spark should jump 13mm open circuit , hold coil wire 13mm from steel , crank the engine
if the spark will jump that far
the coil is good enough

high voltage is a bitch , it will try to get to ground any way that it can ,
including through you .
pay attention while testing
unless you wish to have an afro style hairdo that used to be popular in the 60s and 70s
Edited by mwebb, Oct 25 2010, 09:19 PM.
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

I don't think I can do any better than this...

But Corona discharge is a steady blue light appearing around an insulator. Evidence of a high tension field.



But mwebb is answering the coil question as I type. :lol :lol :lol
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Manny
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Yes! a Costa Rican member

Awesome simple test! There's no way to get lost after that video so I´m going to do it for sure!!

And Mr Webb, actually I had the opportunity "to enjoy" one of those discharges.. hahaha, so funny cause I didn't have time to think about it when suddenly got hit!! nice deep shock!! :smackface :lol
I'll try in the meantime to look also for another oil since it is time to do so... I'm currently using 20W50 cause it fixed my clapping lifter sound, however I know it's thicker than the one I should use :evillol , but apparently no one knows anything better than that over here, before it was 15W40, so trying to remember right now and it came to my mind the problem became heavier after my last oil change.

I´ve seen lots of threads from you talking about oils :type , so I'll take your word on this one and let you guys know, plus the BB tests to make sure.
I was almost out of ideas up to the point you came in with such good advises! :thumb
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Woodie
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Manny
Oct 26 2010, 12:49 AM
I'm currently using 20W50 cause it fixed my clapping lifter sound, however I know it's thicker than the one I should use :evillol ,
It is WAY, WAY, incredibly thicker than anything that should ever be put in a Suzuki engine, and will cause problems, probably already has.

You need 5W-30. If any noises pop up once you put that in, then find out what is causing that noise.
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