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winter project; engine rebuild
Topic Started: Nov 1 2010, 11:36 AM (5,398 Views)
geo runner
Advanced Member
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snowfish,

i just finished up the paint job on everything, can u walk me thru the bottom end process? i bought all the tools needed, here are picturesPosted Image

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what do i do first

thanks
again
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geo runner
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can anyone help me with my rebuild, i just want to make sure i install everything correct in the bottom end. like how should the piston rings be when the piston and rod gets installed into cyclinder. thanks
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mcmancuso
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Here's the bottom end rebuild guide, it now has the picture for the ring positions, all ring gaps should be NO LESS THAN .0079"
http://geometroforum.com/topic/2335235
Edited by mcmancuso, Feb 21 2011, 11:15 AM.
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snowfish
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Basic GearHead

Looking nice! Provided that you have 2 coats, and it's dry, I'd remove the tape & clean up the gasket surfaces. Clean up the threads with a tap.

Next would be to get the crank & pistons in. I like to double check the bearing tolerances with Plastigauge.

Make sure the oil holes, on the crank & rod bearings, line up. Liberally Assembly Lube all bearing surfaces, and crank.

Also, make sure the Thrust Washers are facing toward the Crank. Not the Main Bearing.

Piston arrows point towards the timing belt side. The Rings should have a dot or some marking indicating the top side. The end gap should be checked before installing.

Also, the Rings need to be staggered so none of the gaps are aligned. As in the above link provided.

I used Permatex High Temp Copper spray on all the gaskets. RTV for the Oil Pan.

Some RTV is good for the Crank Seal's press edges. Assembly Lube, Grease, or Oil on the Double Lip portion that rides on the crank. I filled the back of the seals with assembly lube too. It washes out at first fire, but just wanted to be sure everything was nice and slippery.

Torque Specs are Very Important. Just keep you FSM or Haynes handy.

Looking Good! Now I need to go plow snow. I'll try to keep and eye on you. Cheers. :cheers
Edited by snowfish, Feb 21 2011, 11:25 AM.
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geo runner
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well i think i had a vary productive weekend. painted the block and valve cover and pan

also was able to install crank and bearings...(then had to go to machine shop for them to torque that part down)

then came back to my garage and installed piston rings, rod bearings.... then pistons and rods to the crank... i still need to get that torqued.... so i will order my new oil pump today and rear main seal and i should have the bottom end finished and ready for the top end :banana i will snap a few photos tonite
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snowfish
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Basic GearHead

Sir, Please get a Torque Wrench. Most correct answer will be to have two. One 20-150 ftlbs & one 10-200 inch pounds. Or there abouts. There are many, many fasteners that will need to be torqued. :news :'( Inexpensive ones will work just fine for us backyard wrenches. Just remember to return them to the lowest setting when you're done. :thumb

Project is coming along Great! :cheers Your money is Very Well Spent in getting a couple torque wrenches. ^o) I guarantee that you will use them for more than just this project. :popcorn
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geo runner
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yeah i know i need to get me a torque wrench i hope to have one soon here are some pictures

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just waiting for the new oil pump and rear mail seal then the bottom end will be all done
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snowfish
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Basic GearHead

Looks like your in the basement now. Good move! No sense heating the whole shop for the small stuff. :thumb

What 3Tech package are you getting? I couldn't find if it was mild, wild, or something between. :dunno

Be sure to check your head gasket oil ports. Mine had to be opened a bit. :gamerz Take Lots of Pictures. :cheers
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geo runner
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snowfish,

i think i got one step down from you :hmm i think stage 2 with .5mm ss valves performance cam +10 gear and reuseable head bolts


i do like those yellow wires and coil u have for your car.

i wonder if i can find some @ the local parts store for mine.
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snowfish
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Basic GearHead

I'm sure the parts store could order them if they're not pull off the shelf.

I had 3Tech get the wires. Done deal.

Coil I ordered from Jegs.

Looks like wires can be had here too.
http://www.robietherobot.com/storm/prodinfo.htm?sku=KBmetro3cylWires20-836&cart=1245042202500180
I have no experience with these, but it looks legit.
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geo runner
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snowfish,
thanks for the link... i got the bottom end finished.

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water pump and flywheel installed

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i will order my new clutch this week.. and a new starter



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snowfish
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Basic GearHead

I see you applied a liberal amount of RTV, to the pan, as I did. Good idea to pull you Dip Stick Tube to be sure that some RTV didn't creep over to the opening. If it did, you'll have an automatic dip stick wiper! :smackface Pretty tough to know how much oil is in the pan that way.

Much easier correcting the problem while on the bench. Rather than in the car. I discovered my "auto wiper" just before first fire. :die Fortunately I was able to clear the passage without dropping chunks into the pan.
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geo runner
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snowfish,

thanks for the tip on the rtv.... i pulled the dipstick and yes i had to clear the hole as you sugested so thanks again :thumb

i have a few questions for you again..

i got my head back from 3 tech yesterday and need to know how to put it in time with the new +10 gear...

i plan on installing the motor back in the car this weekend and was wondering what oil and oil filter you used for first start up and how you primed your oil pump... if that is needed or what not really sure :dunno

also what kind of transmission fluid and how much to put in and where to put it in

thanks again.... i hope to be driving the car next week
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snowfish
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Basic GearHead

Good deal! Glad you caught it before the engine went in. Much easier to clear on the bench. :coffee

Mike, at 3Tech, should have either enclosed instructions or e-mailed an attachment to you for the Cam Sprocket.

Here's an excerpt from them.............. :news
"Hole #1 (red dot) is used instead of the oval, or oblong hole, for the camshaft dowel.
Hole #2 (blue dot) is used as your timing reference mark, when re-installing the timing belt.
Disregard stock dowel holes/markings on the camshaft sprocket."

I'd be happy to e-mail the whole works if you like. I'm sure Mike, at 3Tech, would send another copy too.

For First Fire I used a cheapo Fram filter with 5w30 Conventional Oil. Primed the pump by leaving the plugs out and spinning until the oil light was off.

Fire it up, bring up to temp, burp down the coolant, make a couple adjustments, smile a bunch, :) and shut it down.

I then change oil (5W30 Conventional) with a Purolator Pur 1 filter. Tranny was filled with Fleet Farm 80/90 with a shot of Sea Foam to help scrub it out.

Tranny drain plug is at the lowest point of the transmission. Takes a 3/8 ratchet extension to remove. Fill plug is on the side about parallel with the axle shaft. It's either a Big Hex head or the same as the drain plug.

Takes 3 quarts, I think. :hmm But you fill until no more can be added.

After 100 miles, I change oil again with 5W30 Conventional and Purolator filter. Also change the transmission oil to Synchromesh at the same time.

Another 500 miles and changed oil to Mobile 1 0W40 with Wix's Filter. I know it's extended drain, but I plan to change oil again mid to late summer. That will probably be 3500-4000 miles +/-. That way I'll have fresh for the winter once again. :thumb

Looking good! :thumb You'll be hearing that sweet rumble shortly. Just don't forget the rotor! :smackface :lol

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geo runner
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well i got the head on and torqued to spec... i also picked up a new clutch kit yesterday... does anyone know how to change the bearing in the transmission.... the pilot bearing i think i might try the grease method.

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mike from 3 tech did a great job! once again :thumb thanks mike

edit: snowfish thanks agian for your help... i emailed mike and he sent me the info i needed
Edited by geo runner, Mar 11 2011, 10:57 AM.
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