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| Rust proofing; How do you rust proof a Metro? | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Nov 5 2010, 02:22 PM (4,526 Views) | |
| bentjazz | Nov 7 2010, 02:08 AM Post #16 |
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I've gotten pretty spooked reading about rust problems with the Metro. I'm going to call around on Monday to see what I can do to prevent this issue from occurring on my Metro.... |
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| mwebb | Nov 7 2010, 10:58 PM Post #17 |
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FOG
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that OSPHO sounds like good stuff based on the name , it must use Phosphoric acid to form a layer of Iron Phosphate on the surface of the metal just apply that , and paint the flat black layer that forms ... and you are finished as long as you do not scratch through the layer of iron phosphate , it will never rust. and Rustoleam part # 7830730 rust reformer for paint brush on also available as a spray paint stops rust , it really works. the same way. ===================================== the spray on tar stuff can seal in moisture and make the rust problem worse , not a good idea . |
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| billy508 | Nov 8 2010, 07:02 AM Post #18 |
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billy508
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Ospho is good stuff.................. Ospho RESISTS/RETARDS RUST - PROVIDES A SOUND BASE FOR PAINT OSPHO is a rust-inhibiting coating - NOT A PAINT. RUSTED METAL - Merely removes loose paint and rust scales, dirt, oil, grease and other accumulations with a wire brush. Apply a coat of OSPHO as It comes In the container - let dry overnight OSPHO should be dry to the touch. Then apply whatever paint system you desire. Test a trial sample before using under epoxy or latex-base paint applications. (Best results have been achieved using an oil-base primer and topcoat.) OSPHO causes iron oxide (rust) to chemical change to iron phosphate - an inert, hard substance that turns the metal black. Where rust is exceedingly heavy, two coats of OSPHO may be necessary to thoroughly penetrate and blacken the surface to be painted. A dry powdery, grayish - white surface usually develops; this is normal - brush off any loose powder before paint application. NEW METALS - For new metals: remove dirt, grease, or oil; apply OSPHO, let dry overnight, then paint. OSPHO can also be used on Galvanized, Aluminum to etch the metal and provide a sound base for painting. (refer to technical bulletin for further instructions) Rusticide CHEMICAL RUST DESTROYER FOR IRON & STEEL SURFACES CHROMIUM, BRASS ETC. The original rust remover since 1917 - RUST-I-CIDE has two major uses: (1) removal of light serface rust (2) preparation of metal for painting. It is used wherever there is metal: in factories, farms, homes, refineries, institutions, ships, highway and railway equipment. RUST-I-CIDE - removes or sterilizes invisible rust pockets, destroys corrosion-forming deposits. Removes rust stains on vitreous enamel (sinks, bathtubs, toilets, lavatories.) Prepares new metal - including aluminum and galvanized steel - for painting, Its etch-type action provides millions of microscopic "hooks" - paint adheres better, lasts longer. Chemical data Ospho & Rusticide - Is a Non-Flammable solution WARNING - OSPHO & RUSTICIDE contain phosphoric acid, KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. Personal protection - use goggles and/or face shields, rubber aprons gloves and boots where splashing or liquid contact may be expected. |
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| billy508 | Nov 8 2010, 07:20 AM Post #19 |
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billy508
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The very best way to deal with a rusted part is to bead or sand blast it then use some type of a 2 part zinc paint. I know that is very hard if not impossible to do that on the underside of a vehicle. If you can blast the smaller parts then paint them with a good zinc or Galvanized paint you can produce good results. A bead blasting cabinet is not very costly and will really improve the quality of your work. In the marine industry we blast the hulls inside and out then use a 2 part zinc paint followed with a 2 part epoxy. Just saying Zinc Clad II Ethyl Silicate, InorganicZINC CLAD II ETHYL SILICATE is a solvent-based two-package, inorganic ethyl silicate, zinc-rich coating. PS All the BBs and bit of slags should be removed when you are finished welding. The BBs will later come off and offer a opening for the rust to penetrate. Edited by billy508, Nov 8 2010, 07:37 AM.
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| nerys | Nov 8 2010, 10:35 AM Post #20 |
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Grr
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slightly different rust issues billy. the reason zinc is used with boats is because of the galvanic reaction in salt water. the "zinc" is sacrificial to the corrosion saving your hull motor etc.. |
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| PA.metro,fixer,frames,ect | Nov 8 2010, 10:42 AM Post #21 |
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Frame Fixer
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i dissagree....with the telling people to wash the underside of the car.....waist of time and money,, i,ve fixed enuf frames, they rust from the inside out-inside were your not gonna--wash it off-- just like jonneys blue jay disaster- it looked fine,from the outside,...nothing was left ,EXEPT THE UNDERCOATING......the salt and water gets trapped inside the box or tube sections,,,,,in the seams, and inbetween metal layers,,,,,, if your gonna do anything-- get oil, or the rust stopper of your choice-- and drill holes and get it inside the frame- arms supports, and inside the subframe under the car.... rockers always,have the paint on them,till the piece falls out- rusts from inside out ---washin the car dont do a dang thing,,,,,, got thirty shiny pretty looking metros out back, with no arm supports left,,and the under coating was still there,on the outside..... |
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| PA.metro,fixer,frames,ect | Nov 8 2010, 10:44 AM Post #22 |
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Frame Fixer
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just did a frame last night, will have pics, if my kid puts them on here---lol |
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| billy508 | Nov 8 2010, 11:08 AM Post #23 |
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billy508
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The zinc paint is not sacrificial as it is covered with a two part epoxy. Zincs are used but they are welded to the hull, rudders, keel coolers etc.
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| PA.metro,fixer,frames,ect | Nov 11 2010, 08:08 AM Post #24 |
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Frame Fixer
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Edited by PA.metro,fixer,frames,ect, Nov 11 2010, 08:17 AM.
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| PA.metro,fixer,frames,ect | Nov 11 2010, 09:03 AM Post #25 |
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Frame Fixer
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pretty,,,,,,,
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| PA.metro,fixer,frames,ect | Nov 11 2010, 09:06 AM Post #26 |
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Frame Fixer
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sorry fellas,, i have many pics, i still don't know really what i'm doing,will try more later, |
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| PA.metro,fixer,frames,ect | Nov 11 2010, 09:13 AM Post #27 |
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Frame Fixer
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done, por 15, epoxy paint, and oiled inside, ready to jump R+R tracks.,.,.,.
Edited by PA.metro,fixer,frames,ect, Nov 11 2010, 09:15 AM.
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| bentjazz | Nov 11 2010, 10:01 AM Post #28 |
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Nice job, Mr. Frame Fixer. |
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| bentjazz | Nov 11 2010, 10:04 AM Post #29 |
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Frame Fixer, just curious, how much would you charge for a job like that? |
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| superduty5.9 | Nov 11 2010, 11:20 AM Post #30 |
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Metro Defender
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Nice welds! What gauge steel is that? |
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pretty,,,,,,,
done, por 15, epoxy paint, and oiled inside, ready to jump R+R tracks.,.,.,.
9:14 AM Jul 11