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| A-arm rust repair; Need help repairing rusted A-arms without welding. | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Nov 6 2010, 08:30 PM (4,562 Views) | |
| Metro3.0 | Nov 6 2010, 08:30 PM Post #1 |
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Hi. I have a 1994 Geo Metro, manual, 154k miles, engine and everything up front restored. I am replacing control arms (again) and found rust on the A-arms. The rust isn't too bad. The frame is structurally sound. Just some holes (1"x1", 3"x2") all just below the tie rods. I scraped the loose rust all and vacuumed the rust from inside the frame. I sprayed WD40 inside and poured Rustoleum into the frame til it poured out thru the rail in the back of the car. I sprayed and brushed the A-arms w/Rustoleum inside/out. The bolts inside the frame are solid. I want to close the holes in the A-arms. Here's my plan: I want to fill the inside of the A-arm with Liquid Nails to build up a foundation to putty the frame shut with JB Weld. I want to avoid any welding, I don't have the tools or time to make this such a big project. Besides, the thing is solid n I'm in Texas where it's dry. Do you think Liquid Nails will hold? I thought about using Great Stuff foam insulation but that's too soft. Any help is greatly appreciated -Al |
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| Rooy | Nov 6 2010, 08:40 PM Post #2 |
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I replied to your other post. Fiberglass would be a lot easier. |
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| Metro3.0 | Nov 6 2010, 09:53 PM Post #3 |
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I only see this post in my profile page under "my posts". I'm new, just signed up today. Fiberglass would be better? The only fiberglass i know of is the kind they have in home insulation. Do they make fiberglass in a caulk or putty? I am hesitant to do anything right now because I don't know much about metals/chemistry/etc. Liquid Nails seemed like a good solution because I used it in construction and know it's strong n hard when dry. Fiberglass does sound better although I have no idea where to find it in putty/caulk form. I'm a newbie when it comes to stuff like this. Do you know where I can find some fiberglass to fill the inside of the A-arms? -Al |
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| Rooy | Nov 6 2010, 09:59 PM Post #4 |
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You replied to this post: http://geometroforum.com/topic/2504729 Not fiberglass insulation, fiberglass cloth and resin. Like this: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=6121 Sold at many places (hardware stores, auto parts stores, home improvement stores, even WalMart). And you wouldn't fill the inside, you'd use it as a patch over the holes. Edited by Rooy, Nov 6 2010, 10:01 PM.
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| mcmancuso | Nov 6 2010, 10:02 PM Post #5 |
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What you're looking to do is very dangerous, those materials are all brittle, the metal in that area is subject to a lot of forces, and I doubt that fiberglass(the only option with any REAL strength for a large area) will hold to the metal with the flexing that goes on. Under no circumstances should you use either JB weld or liquid nails, neither will hold, JB weld is too brittle, liquid nails is too soft. You really need to weld real metal into this if you expect it to last at all. I'm actually in the process of moving to austin TX and I have a welder and the capability to do this, if you're interested. I'll be in the area next weekend. Edited by mcmancuso, Nov 6 2010, 10:04 PM.
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| Bad Bent | Nov 6 2010, 10:46 PM Post #6 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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Welcome to your new forum, Metro3.0! That's a great offer from mcmancuso, eh. I check all the New Posts by pressing the button in the upper right. You seem to have found Metro Tech all right.
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| Metro3.0 | Nov 7 2010, 11:29 AM Post #7 |
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mcmanuso, I already patched one side that had the smaller holes with JB Weld Kwik Steel. I didnt pour anything inside the frame. The holes on the other side are bigger. I may just put the control arms on for now as the area that needs patching is on top and the control arms won't be in the way. I may take you up on your offer. I can send you pictures if you give me your e-mail. Maybe you can give me an estimate of how much it will cost to fix. I guess the wise thing to do is to let the Geo sit while I shop for warmer motorcycle gloves. -Al |
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| mcmancuso | Nov 7 2010, 11:39 AM Post #8 |
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If you can have it accessible (so I can get the welder and grinder in there), I'd do the welding for a lunch
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| Ryan | Nov 7 2010, 11:41 AM Post #9 |
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Ryan
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For a lunch?? What a deal! Get your Arbys coupons out! |
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| bentjazz | Nov 7 2010, 11:54 AM Post #10 |
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Member
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Reading this is like reading Greek. I have a lot to learn.... |
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| Ryan | Nov 7 2010, 12:00 PM Post #11 |
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Ryan
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You will definitely learn a lot here. If you ever have time, read the "Guides/How to" area: http://geometroforum.com/forum/486462/ |
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| bentjazz | Nov 7 2010, 12:02 PM Post #12 |
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Thanks, Ryan. |
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| Metro3.0 | Nov 7 2010, 01:35 PM Post #13 |
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mcmancuso, that would be awesome. The car is in the garage on jackstands. Would the tie rods need to come off? I hate those things! I guess i can wait. When do you think you can make it?My email is alwolinski@yahoo.com. -Al |
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| nerys | Nov 7 2010, 01:46 PM Post #14 |
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Grr
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arby's Grrrrrr love arby's :-) |
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| Metro3.0 | Nov 7 2010, 04:06 PM Post #15 |
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Here are some pics of my metro A-arm project: http://m1035.photobucket.com/albums/padrote2010/?pbauth=1_uLEBonVPfaLdh1h3YMYz2QYJSM24ta%2FRpYmS8vaN5gTsvlKGOOcFNCaRrS904SLA9eSPMZQYiyN0eJXiBYDOQtntQB82o5rdhWPxTh5TL9xMC2%2FZrzALGf%2FVsZzff%2FAtJndd%2BVVVIMly%2BwXC8U%2BvmYTkBjOp2%2BtFyYUYpJjIprY%3D |
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