Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Posted ImageWelcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.

You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Join our community!




Username:   Password:
Add Reply
Little White Limo; A Wagon Project
Topic Started: Nov 8 2010, 11:52 PM (3,531 Views)
Bad Bent
Member Avatar
Facetious Educated Donkey

Kik
Nov 10 2010, 11:04 AM
Bad...if you're referring to my wood wheel, it's due in today or tomorrow and I'll have a look at it when I herd this Pete back to the home 20 Friday.
If you're shopping for one of these wheels... foreversharp.com
Hey, who cares if you are odd man out. :rasp YOU like it and that is what matters. B-)

It is a great site and a lot of adapters. www.foreversharp.com. But I saw nothing for Geos. So the solution is... ?

Please post pictures of your steering wheel install. I don't think we have one. :dunno
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Kik
Member Avatar


Thanks, Bogs. How's Cali? :-)

Bad...I took a lot of pics...I'll post them this weekend if anyone wants to see. Matter of fact, the PhotoBucket link at the top takes you to my album where there is a little more text when the image is clicked explaining a little bit more...part number for install kit, etc. I just looked all the way through SnowFish's entire "Little Red with Heart" thread and he did a great job posting his with explanation.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Bad Bent
Member Avatar
Facetious Educated Donkey

Thank you, I don't recall seeing those pictures of the bullet extension and steering wheel mount before.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Kik
Member Avatar


The next few posts will be a little better detail on installing an aftermarket steering wheel on a GEO Metro...mine is a '92 model to be exact. I am not sure how the splines and steering columns are in respect to other year/models. SnowFish inspired me to organize it a little better with his "Little Red with Heart" thread.

The question was asked about adapters, part numbers, etc. Here is the kit I used. Sourced it from eBay...I imagine there are others but this works fine except for a little modifying of the hub to accept the turn canceling projections which I will show down the thread. I believe APC and Grant are one and the same company now but look for the "3510" wheel installation kit.

Posted Image

REMOVING THE STOCK STEERING WHEEL:

I won't go into detail on this cause it's pretty straightforward. Since there is no air bag to deal with on my model, it's a no-brainer. The horn center section has to come off. Mine has 4 little prongs that seat or snap into the steering wheel hardware...it just pried off. Then you'll see the center 17mm nut that retains the wheel on the splines and a pair of phillips screws top & bottom. I didn't have to have a puller for mine. Hands on either side of wheel and wiggled it a bit...popped right up. Johnny Mullet would tell you if it don't come this way, just keep whacking it and it will come. There ain't much whacking room on the backside...I would suggest a puller if yours won't give. Get your mind outta the gutter.

Once the factory wheel is removed, you are looking at this:

Posted Image

Pay attention to that white plastic (or fiber?) ring in the center around the splined shaft in the image above. It sits on a spring and pulls up and off with just a little effort. The spring should remain in place..mine did. This is the turn signal canceling piece. It fits into 2 recessed holes on the backside of the hub...you can just see the 2 raised "nubs" in this image positioned north & south.

THE STEERING WHEEL INSTALLATION KIT ADAPTER:

Below is an image of the back side of the splined kit adapter. You can see the horn contact patch or ring in this shot. There is a spring loaded pin in your stock wheel column that makes contact all along this ring. This contact patch is insulated from the metal part of the hub. There is a wire soldered onto this ring that is insulated and runs upward to attach to your horn button...but later on that. Take a look at the 2 original holes this hub comes with. They do not mate up with the turn canceling nubs. The fix is to drill a pair of holes a tad wider that these "fingers" will sit in. Easy to drill...just measure twice and drill once. You won't screw up the hub/adapter. Start smaller and work up till you get a good fit. You can see how the turn canceling "nubs" are going to sit in the new adapter.

Posted Image

As you will see later (and I will note it now), re-drilling these 2 holes in the above image does have an effect on the positioning of the steering wheel once mounted. Not to confuse you but you will see as you go through the process. You just have to make sure the splines on this adapter and the extension adapter place the wheel you are going to use in the proper centered position. More later on that.

Another shot of the turn signal cancel feature and the horn contact:

Posted Image

Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Kik
Member Avatar


Here is the front side of the new steering wheel installation kit adapter:

Posted Image

From this step, you have to be aware of the wheel positioning...obviously. There are many different wheels available but using this kit allowed me to utilize just about any 5-hole mounted wheel from Grant, APC, Pilot, Forever Sharp, etc. I believe Momo and some others are 6-hole wheels so when choosing your wheel, you have to know which adapter to get. For this "3510" adapter kit, I chose to go with a 2" billet extension that was drilled to accept any of these 5-hole mounted wheels. They do make 6-hole mount extensions so be aware of what you want. There are also 3-hole mount Grant wheels that would probably line with these 3 holes here in this image. However I wanted to get the wheel spaced away from the turn signal and wiper levers and 2" worked for me. Also, take note the extension you desire can be affected by the "dish" of the new wheel you choose. If it is a deep dish model, you might want a lesser extension. I've seen anywhere from 1" to 3" or more so keep that in mind as you shop.

Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Kik
Member Avatar


This is a cover plate that comes with the installation kit....3 mounting holes that match up with the hub adapter and the odd hole is for the horn wire.

Posted Image

The cover plate placed over the hub:

Posted Image
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Kik
Member Avatar


This is my choice of extension adapters...a 2" billet piece...also from eBay. I've seen 'em plain, milled, polished, chrome...and in all kinds of sizes to accommodate various wheels. As mentioned earlier, I decided to go with a Forever Sharp mahogany wheel in a 14" size which is closer to the stock diameter wheel. I originally tried a 13" APC cheap wheel and didn't like the size and the horn section construction was made of vinyl covered "cardboard" or ??? Wifey said she liked it but she didn't see the construction of it. I am completely satisfied with this Forever Sharp wheel. It fit and it came with all the mounting hardware plus some extra wires and stainless screws. No trips to the hardware store with these guys. You can see the 5-hole pattern now where the new wheel will mount. If you choose a Momo or other 6-hole mount wheel, obviously you would be looking at 6 mounting holes now instead of my 5.

Posted Image


Here is the back side of the extension. That plate is mounted with 5 supplied screws to the bottom side of the extension which will be the surface that the factory 17mm nut attached to the shaft. Also, again...the 3 mounting holes and the horn wire hole.

Posted Image

Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Kik
Member Avatar


Now, you will set the extension in place over the shaft and on top of the black cover plate...lining up the 3 mounting holes...fishing the horn wire through. There are 3 supplied 7/16" bolts 1/2" long that secure this assembly together. Use one of these bolts as the ground wire attachment point for the horn button (wire/connectors also supplied with the "3510" kit). Of course, you need your front wheels pointed straight ahead to position your new wheel that is coming in the next steps. Also, it's time to secure the whole she-bang with the stock 17mm nut. Do not over-torque the soft 7/16" mounting bolts...but you will want to secure the 17mm nut. It actually draws the hub down onto the splines and in this step, you need to be aware of the spring-loaded horn contact and make sure the horn contact patch on the back side of the hub is making contact. All that contacting confusing? You'll see what I mean as it goes together. Oh yeah...you did unhook your ground cable on your battery to start with, right? If not, you have had Momma come out to check on you several times as the horn went "meep-beep" every time it contacted a grounded surface.


Posted Image
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Kik
Member Avatar


I'll just go ahead and cut to the chase scene now and give you the finished product:

Posted Image

It's pretty obvious how this mounts. Prior to installing the 5-hole wheel onto the 5-hole extension, you will want to hook up your horn wire and the ground wire you attached to one of the 3 mounting bolts. The Forever Sharp wheel came with some 4mm screws that mount the horn button and the wheel to the extension adapter.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Kik
Member Avatar


This last image is a shot of the back side of the mounted wheel on the billet extension. You can judge from this about how much extension you may want or need. 2" gives me plenty of finger clearance on the turns and wipers and puts the wheel just right for my monkey arms. This shot shows the base cover plate (black), the 2" billet extension, the wheel (not snugged completely yet here in this pic) and the horn button. Hook up the battery cable and got a solid "meep-beep" and it's a DONE deal.

Posted Image
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Kik
Member Avatar


So...I gathered up some parts today and began the task of re-drilling the rear drums to use longer, bigger 12mm studs. I was not comfortable with the number of threads that grabbed the bulge acorn lug nuts with the Boyd Coddington wheels. I could have saved myself a bit of trouble if I had thought & planned ahead I guess. I just put all new brakes on all 4 corners of the '92 4 door with new stock size drums on the rear. I installed new 10mm studs into the drums when I did the brakes. There is NO source for longer serrated 10mm studs to fit my drums. I found some ATV stuff but it's not compatible. When I tested the install, having to use "bulge" acorn nuts to accommodate the larger holes in the wheels, there was only about 4 or 5 mm of threads grabbing. Checking around, I found the front 12mm studs and ABS application studs are 37.5mm long compared to the 10mm studs at 29 mm long. The standard rear 12mm studs are 33.5 mm long unless, again, you have ABS, then they get the longer ones. Anywho...I found 16 of the longer 12 mm studs, a 15/32" bit, removed my rear drums & whacked a few times, drilled a few minutes, whacked some more and voila' ! I'm grabbing a decent amount of threads on non-bulge nuts and a whole lot fatter lug stud. I anticipate the fronts will be a little more involved tomorrow but I'll get it done.

Part numbers for the 12mm longer studs - DORMAN 6103361 . That stud also has a longer shoulder but it does not interfere with a custom wheel application. O'Reillys, AutoZones, etc also use that part number or a recognizable variation of it on their sites. Altogether about 25 minutes per rear drum from jacking up to torquing nuts back on. I'll allow a little more time for the fronts. :-)

Just a FYI FWIW...the Dorman site has this bit of instruction for installing studs:

Posted Image

EDIT: The diameter/size of the knurl can be found on the various studs via rockauto.com's listings on some of the studs they offer or on the Dorman site i.e. this: http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-22283-610-3361.aspx

I have whacked em in for years and never had a problem. I have also pulled a few in using a nut and spacer. I understand the reasoning why they do not recommend using the nut to pull em in to seat...torquing a bolt actually stretches it and over-torquing can damage the bolt. I've done it & you've done it. But I think the Mullet Man likes the whacking thing so I'm gonna keep on whackin' . :drivin
Edited by Kik, Nov 18 2010, 09:52 PM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Coche Blanco
Member Avatar
Troll Certified

that wheel is tasty
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Kik
Member Avatar


TYVM, Coche...it's not really so "orange" looking in person...nice wood grain but not as dark as I thought. :thumb
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
bogs
Member Avatar
Duct tape heals all wounds

Cali was the pits, but GREAT job on the wheel install :thumb
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Kik
Member Avatar


Thanks, Bogs. I ran southern Cal for about 7 years steady...almost weekly from east and back and I actually got to liking the place. Got on left coast time and had a hard time getting re-adjusted when I stopped going out there. Last trip I made out was with a mixture of 12 little Minis, Audi etc.

Posted Image

Loaded some Mercedes coming back to Florida and didn't stop to scale 'em cause I figured eastbound scales would be closed...always are mostly and this was Dec 22nd...I'm streaking for home for Christmas. A short-legged, grain-fed gal at the scales yanked me in and molested me cause my truck was too long for her liking. They finally let me go and I promised her I wouldn't bring my long truck back. Haven't...yet . B-)

Now if I could get the front wheel bearings to cooperate like the steering wheel...
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
Go to Next Page
« Previous Topic · Project Forum · Next Topic »
Add Reply