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| The $350 1992 Metro rebuild; Testbed for MPG mods | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Nov 18 2010, 01:38 AM (9,573 Views) | |
| jreese4886 | Dec 1 2010, 11:05 AM Post #46 |
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New Member
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welcom if ther is a lot of carbon bild up in the motor i use johnson and evenruide motor tune its for boats 2 and 4 cycle motors its grate stuff i had a 1990 caprice clasic that had the 305 in it and it lacked power i put the can thrugh the vac hoes and the in take it cleand the carbon off of the valves and the rings i sware by the stuff. it works grate on weed eters that the carbs are gumbed up you put itin the gas tank and prime it and let it sit over nite and drain and put fresh gass in i love it |
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| jreese4886 | Dec 1 2010, 12:33 PM Post #47 |
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New Member
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i live in holiday and i looked at your car but i was looking at a nother one since augest an i waited to buy it insted and i got a realy good deal on it. i got a 96 1.l auto 133,xxx miles on it for 200 bucks that runs good it it dose need some work tho the inter needs re don and a few dents and needs a paint job and a mulfler but it runs and rives and shifts good. i bought it for pizza delivery too |
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| Bad Bent | Dec 1 2010, 12:56 PM Post #48 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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Can you provide a link to the product, please.
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| jreese4886 | Dec 1 2010, 01:02 PM Post #49 |
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New Member
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i just go to a mrine stor or to a marine boat repair shop but you can get some that is made by west marine just ask for de carb |
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| snowfish | Dec 1 2010, 05:18 PM Post #50 |
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Basic GearHead
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Why does this look so familiar? You did take a ton of pictures before disassembly, right? You Can Not Take Too Many! Really helps when you're ready to button things up. Scrub it down and paint it up! Nice Job! Looking forward to your progress.
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| Jim-Bob | Dec 1 2010, 06:05 PM Post #51 |
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Junkyard Engineer
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Believe me, there are pictures ( over 30 I have hosted online as of now. Not all of them are posted here) ! I probably took another 20 today. I also employed a disassembly technique that makes it difficult to confuse too many hoses and wires when it comes time to reassemble the car. Basically, when you have two hoses that are next to or near to each other you take one off of one part and the other off the other. That way you can see which one went where and it is impossible to put it on the wrong hose bung. The intake and throttle body were also taken off as a unit with all the attendant hoses, sensors and brackets still attached. While I do plan on replacing all of the hoses, this lets me do them one at a time (like plug wires). I also used freezer bags for bolts and specific items so that I would be able to keep them well sorted when it comes time to do reassembly. This way I am not starting from scratch when it comes time to assemble everything. (It also helps to have a 160 IQ, be working on a mechanical engineering degree and a near photographic memory :lol) |
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| Jim-Bob | Dec 1 2010, 06:12 PM Post #52 |
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Junkyard Engineer
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Finished cleaning the engine today and finally got the head off of it. Yup, it has a badly burnt exhaust valve. However, the cylinders look good and have no ridges in them. The pistons have a little carbon on them, but nothing I can't clean up during the planned ring job. My only area of concern is that there was water in the oil and the head gasket does not appear to be the culprit. I will have to see what the inside of the block and head look like tomorrow after I put the block on the engine stand. I am hoping there aren't any cracks running from the water passages to the crankcase, but only a thorough inspection will let me see for sure. I will post more pics tonight when I get home from work. I would do so now, but there simply isn't time before I have to go to work. |
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| Jim-Bob | Dec 2 2010, 01:10 AM Post #53 |
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Junkyard Engineer
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Here are today's pics of the engine as I cleaned it. And why yes! That IS my lawnmower doubling as an engine dolly!![]() ![]() The cam seal was indeed leaking. In fact, it had come completely out of the head and was just sitting on the camshaft by the timing cog. ![]() ![]() The Wal Mart bags were used to plug the ports when I pressure cleaned the engine. ![]() ![]() Oh, c'mon.... it's not like I am the only one here who has a Suzuki G10 sitting on a lawnmower in their front porch. ![]() Inside the cam cover. It's a bit dirty, but I have yet to see any real thick sludge formation inside the engine. ![]() ![]() The cylinders are in great condition and the pistons should clean up with a little lacquer thinner and a soft plastic bristle brush. ![]() I tried 4 times to get a good picture of the burnt valve but this was the best that I could do. So, what are my plans for tomorrow? Well, I got my other engine stand back from my neighbor today ( my good one has an AMC 360 on it for another project) and plan to put the G10 on it. Unfortunately, it is missing the little stanchions that normally space the block away from the stand's yoke. So tomorrow I need to go source some steel pipe to fabricate the stanchions out of before I can mount the engine to the stand. Delays, delays... Edited by Jim-Bob, Dec 2 2010, 01:16 AM.
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| Jim-Bob | Dec 2 2010, 02:10 AM Post #54 |
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Junkyard Engineer
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I had been looking for a 3 cylinder/5 speed car and that is why I got the one I did. I will have to swap out the automatic but the shell was in great shape and perfect for me to build the eco-modded car of my dreams. I wanted the 3 cylinder to maximize fuel economy for the coming significant increase in fuel prices that will hit us in 6-12 months. I figure I can get 40-50 mpg delivering pizza with a properly set up Metro, a 50-60% savings in fuel costs over my current delivery vehicle. |
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| Woodie | Dec 2 2010, 06:26 AM Post #55 |
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See the clean ring around the outside diameter of the pistons? You definitely need rings. |
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| poorman1 | Dec 2 2010, 07:34 AM Post #56 |
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do not loose the brass valve in the hole on the left side of the block by the lawnmower tire remove it and put it in in a safe deposit box until your ready to reinstall the head |
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| Jim-Bob | Dec 2 2010, 01:40 PM Post #57 |
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Junkyard Engineer
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Don't worry, I already planned on doing rings and bearings while it is out. I figure the car has 116k on it so it's just good preventative maintenance. I also plan to rebuild the manual transmission if I find one as well as adding a new clutch, axles, brakes, etc. By the time the car is finished it should be mostly new from a mechanical standpoint. |
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| Jim-Bob | Dec 2 2010, 04:54 PM Post #58 |
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Junkyard Engineer
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Didn't do much today. I took off the water pump, coolant transfer tube and flexplate and cleaned out all the corrosion that was extant in the block. Other than that, I went and bought a piece of steel pipe to cut down into stanchions for the engine stand and priced out paint as well as a cheap paint job. The cheapie place wanted $159 to paint the whole car if I prep it, or $350 to strip and paint it. Finishmaster wanted $87 for a gallon of Nason enamel and it's attendant chemicals. I also have a gallon of Nason clear left over from my failed Sentra project that I would put towards the project, giving me a base/clear job for little more than a cheap 3 coats of white enamel from the one day place. If I go that route, I will also have to rent the paint booth I usually use for around $50 but I will also get to paint it disassembled and do the jambs as well. All totaled, doing it myself should run me around $250 and give me a much nicer finish. All that will have to wait until spring though as the booth is not heated and I have had bad results from using it in winter.
Edited by Jim-Bob, Dec 2 2010, 04:54 PM.
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| jreese4886 | Dec 2 2010, 08:50 PM Post #59 |
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New Member
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my next one when im done with this one will be 3/5 efxi |
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| snowfish | Dec 3 2010, 11:23 AM Post #60 |
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Basic GearHead
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That's why we need extra help! Tend to over think things. I have a near photographic memory too......just take two weeks to get the picture back! Nice project! You're dong great!
Edited by snowfish, Dec 3 2010, 11:24 AM.
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Looking forward to your progress.











I have a near photographic memory too......just take two weeks to get the picture back!
7:10 PM Jul 10