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| The $350 1992 Metro rebuild; Testbed for MPG mods | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Nov 18 2010, 01:38 AM (9,571 Views) | |
| Jim-Bob | Dec 13 2010, 03:50 PM Post #76 |
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Junkyard Engineer
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A little progress.... I shipped off the head to 3 Tech today so the engine rebuild is finally under way. Disturbingly though I found a brochure with prices for apartments in my roommate's car when I went to move it to go to UPS. I am just hoping I am not screwing myself financially as my pay gets cut January 5th by $200 a month and losing my roommate would mean I lose another $300 a month. I will pay for the head when it is done out of my bank account but I fear that I have just ran out of time to fix things as things are possibly going to get far worse than I thought they would as of next month. |
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| snowfish | Dec 13 2010, 04:38 PM Post #77 |
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Basic GearHead
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Just wondering if you actually mow the lawn? Or is it just a multipurpose portable work stand? What ever happens, you will not regret having 3Tech do the head work! Excellent progress! Just keep moving forward. It will all come together. You know how long mine is taking!
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| Jim-Bob | Dec 13 2010, 10:00 PM Post #78 |
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Junkyard Engineer
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Yeah, the lawn is starting to need a bit of attention. I've been so wrapped up in the Metro that I've been neglecting it a bit. Fortunately it's winter and the grass doesn't grow much. At any rate, I figured 3 Tech was my most expensive option, but as he seems to specialize in the Suzuki G series he was probably the best choice. I figured the volume rebuilders do the minimum to get in spec while someone who knows these engines would probably do it the best way possible. As I plan to put at least 100k on it I want to make sure the car is reliable. Next up will be rustproofing to keep my rust free Metro rust free. I plan to take off the lower control arms and work on the mounting points to be sure they stay solid. My plans call for a 3M product that is $20 a can but replicates the stock stuff most car makers and commercial rustproofers use. I figure it's easier to do it while the carpet, engine and transmission are out and I'm waiting for the head to come in. Plus, it's cheaper than the other projects I have to do and when I have little cash to deal with I need stuff to just keep busy. Anyhow, thanks for the kind words and encouragement. In a time when everything seems to be going to crap they are appreciated more than you know. |
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| billy508 | Dec 13 2010, 10:08 PM Post #79 |
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billy508
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Hang in there One day at a time.... Keep your eyes and ears open for jobs or opportunities to make money. You only see what you are looking for. One day at a time.....................................................................................................................Please send 2 cents for more trite but well meant phases. LOL
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| Jim-Bob | Dec 14 2010, 03:11 PM Post #80 |
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Junkyard Engineer
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Today's minor update: I decided to take the fenders off today to clean out any leaves and dirt that had become trapped back there. I ran into a roadblock though as I found out that the bumper cover is in the way of one of the bolts. I didn't take care of that yet as it is very cold-for-Florida today (46 degrees with 20-30 mph winds). Still, I did manage to unbolt all the other fasteners and pull back the fender and liner to reveal a ton of leaves. They all fell out or got washed out with the hose. It is important to do this on any older car you get because leaves and dirt trap moisture and will rot the car out in short order. I also plan to take the cowl apart and clean inside of there. There is also some surface rust that needs tending to as well as dried up caulk and sealant. I'll get the wire wheel out in the next few days to clean up the rust then everything will be sealed with a combination of butyl acetate strip caulk and 3M bedding and glazing compound. Unsealed seams rust and leak water into the car fairly quickly so it is important to take care of them while the problem is minor.![]() Here you can see the leaves that fell out. As you can imagine, this could have lead to a disastrous amount of rust! ![]() ![]() Nice rust-free frame horns! |
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| Johnny Mullet | Dec 14 2010, 09:27 PM Post #81 |
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Fear the Mullet
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I can show you some leaves and rust............
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| Jim-Bob | Dec 14 2010, 11:35 PM Post #82 |
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Junkyard Engineer
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I bet you can! I was lurking on here for a week or so before I started shopping for a Metro to learn what to look for. I saw a lot of horror stories with rust and checked this car over for them before buying it. I figured it was easier to rebuild an engine and swap in a manual transmission than to fix a rotted out car. This car was incredibly clean in that regard and you can even still see the yellow paint on the bolts that was put there when it was built, probably to tell other line workers that they were torqued to spec. Now I'm not saying the car doesn't have needs-it has a lot of them ( it really needs a full restoration if I'm honest) but it's all bolt together stuff. The car's biggest nightmare problem for me will be stripping the paint off as it is badly checked and has to come off before I can paint it. I am still debating when I will paint it though as I need the car soon and probably will wait until I no longer deliver to do the cosmetic restoration I have planned. Plus, I really want to get a chance to drive a Metro already. I've owned one for a month and have never even driven one on a street yet! Edited by Jim-Bob, Dec 14 2010, 11:37 PM.
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| Jim-Bob | Dec 15 2010, 02:16 AM Post #83 |
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Junkyard Engineer
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I figured I would list my complete parts list for the things I need to buy and replace. It's not only for the benefit of those on the site, but for mine as well. This way I have an internet accessible parts list for when I am out and about as I usually carry my netbook with me when I go junkyard shopping. Without further ado, here it is. To just put the engine in the car and get it running with the automatic, I need the following: 3 Tech economy head ( on order already) Engine gasket set Chrome Moly rings Rod bearings Main Bearings Thrust Bearing Water pump Timing belt+ tensioner set Catalytic converter with pipe Transmission filter transmission fluid plug wires plugs cap+rotor pcv valve air filter element battery hold down strap oil+filter-X2 vacuum hoses fuel hoses fuel filter coolant hoses belts o2 sensor radiator cylinder hone _________________________________________________________________________ Adding in a manual trans swap I would need the following: Transmission Transmission rebuild kit Axles shifter clutch+brake pedals clutch set clutch cable flywheel trans mount Syncromesh fluid shift knob shifter boot _________________________________________________________________________ The chassis upgrades will require the following: 95+ sway bars and hardware new struts 95+ hubs wheel bearings drums and backing plates wheel cylinders brake pads and shoes rotors calipers+ brackets new brake hoses 13 inch wheels 175 70 R13 tires front suspension chassis brace Spare tire Rod from jacking tools __________________________________________________________________________________ Cosmetics 1 gallon of urethane primer/surfacer 1 gallon of Nason white base ( I already have the clear) 1 quart SEM vinyl dye in the original gray color carpet set second passenger's seat to cannibalize for the driver's seat 80 grit sandpaper on DA to strip paint metal prep etching primer 1/2 pint gloss black window tint paint booth rental for a day Metro lettering for hatch Geo emblem for hood eggshell black for bumper covers moon discs Silver wheel paint 4 center caps for wheels +16 chrome lug nuts __________________________________________________________________________________ Stereo+A/C R134a compressor R134a hoses+ O rings R134a pressure switch Receiver/dryer Kenwood CD player with HD radio and iPod controls out of my pickup truck 6.5 in MB Quart separates in the doors Rear deck speakers ( I don't have the pieces for the back with the cargo cover yet so I don't know the size) 8 in JL audio subwoofer in custom enclosure built in to the passenger's quarter panel in the cargo area 100 watt Alpine amp for the sub ( I already have it). The plan is to build it in behind the panel by the back seat so it is out of sight. Edited by Jim-Bob, Dec 15 2010, 02:30 AM.
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| Jim-Bob | Dec 15 2010, 04:52 PM Post #84 |
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Junkyard Engineer
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Here's today's tiny update. I got the fenders, wipers, cowl screen and hood off today. Everything was as expected with lots of rust where the factory-applied tar sealant had been over that big seam. I pulled the hood because the sealant is also beneath the hinges and will need to be dealt with when I do the rest of the door pillar. So far the plan is to clean and de-rust the whole area, seal the seam with epoxy, paint it with the pint of white Nason paint I have in the garage and then cover the area with undercoating. This is a very moist part of the car as it is where the cowl drains the windshield to so it is important to weatherproof it as good as possible and make sure the water has an easy time draining out and drying off the surface. Failure to do so will rot the area out. As it is a major structural area it is important to maintain strength here.![]() Passenger's side. It seems that the bumper does not need to come off as the bolt holding the bracket is on top of the air box silencer and removing the silencer reveals the bolt. ![]() Driver's side. You can see the leaves that are trapping moisture against the metal here. The paint in this area is also very thin and in many places has completely gone away, leaving only the primer. ![]() Driver's side washer bottle. You can also see the bracket and it's bolt that needs to come out to remove the fender without removing the bumper cover. ![]() Driver's side again. ![]() Close up of the deteriorated tar. You can see that it no longer does anything to seal the car and is now, in fact, holding water against the metal causing rust. ![]() ![]() ![]() Hood removal tip: If you close the hood, you can gain access to the rear bolt that holds the hinge to the chassis. It's design details like this that set Japanese cars of this era apart from American ones. They seem to have been designed for ease of repair. ![]() My messy little piece of heaven. This is where all the magic happens and from where, hopefully sometime in the next month or so, a drivable Metro will emerge. |
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| Rooy | Dec 15 2010, 05:18 PM Post #85 |
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That rubbery sealant...anyone know what it is? Butyl? Mine was the same way. It dried up, cracked, and hardly stuck to the metal, trapping water and causing rust. I wonder why they didn't use the same brush-on urethane seam sealer that they used on the rest of the car? That's what I used after cleaning up that mess. |
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| Jim-Bob | Dec 15 2010, 05:56 PM Post #86 |
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Junkyard Engineer
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The sad thing is that the urethane sealant isn't much better. It too will dry up and crack with age, just like this stuff does. It works better on areas that are not exposed to the weather like on the interior of the car. I ended up replacing all of the seam caulk on my 1985 Cutlass when I built it for that reason. What I used on the seams on that car was JB Weld. I even used it to fill in the seams in the drip rails where the old caulk had cracked, and the new caulk I had replaced it with 5 years prior had also cracked badly. The issue is that the caulk shrinks back as the solvents in it out gas and thus it quits sealing in a fairly short amount of time. The epoxy, however does not dry through evaporation but rather through catalyzation. As such it creates a solid when dry that weathers far better-especially when painted. I have even used it to fix small pin holes of rust with very good results. However, the problem with JB Weld is cost. It is VERY expensive when used over large areas. This time I may try something else-panel bond. Panel bond is a structural adhesive that can be used to replace welding in certain applications. You can fix rust holes with it and it bonds so securely to metal that if you join two pieces of steel with it the pieces of steel will rip before the joint will come apart. |
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| Jim-Bob | Dec 16 2010, 02:17 PM Post #87 |
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Junkyard Engineer
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Minor Update: I wire wheeled the rust and sealant off the best I could today. I even found a tiny rust hole about 1/4 in in diameter that will have to be fixed with epoxy. Right now the rust is soaking in acidic rust remover to try and strip all of it that I can. It should leave me with a pitted but clean surface to paint to when it is all done. I didn't get to take pictures today, and as my roommate is now dragging me out of the house to play pool and away from my obsessive work schedule on the Geo, I guess this is all I will get done today. *EDIT* I took a few pictures after all. ![]() ![]() Here's the crap I am using to remove the last vestiges of rust from the metal. Also, NEVER thow away old toothbrushes! You never know when they will come in handy! ![]() And...the other side...still soaking in rust remover. That reminds me, the 24/7 Wal Mart beckons me as I need to buy more rust remover and apply it before i go to bed. Edited by Jim-Bob, Dec 17 2010, 01:47 AM.
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| Jim-Bob | Dec 16 2010, 05:19 PM Post #88 |
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Junkyard Engineer
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Update # 2 for the day.... I took the door apart to try and figure out why the window was so hard to wind up and down. The front track was misaligned so I fixed that only to have the window come out of it's bracket! It seems that the rear track was also misaligned and not letting the window move freely and the whole thing pulled out. Great. Now I have to re-glue it in there with some urethane glue. It seems too that the garage I had bought it from ( they had replaced the window before selling it to me) had glued the window in with gray silicone. No wonder it came apart! I'll go buy some 3M Window-Weld tomorrow to take care of it. I'll probably also use that to seal the rusty seams in the door hing posts too. After all, I gotta get my $10 worth! |
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| Woodie | Dec 17 2010, 05:01 AM Post #89 |
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The root cause of most Metro window problems is a pinch at the very front of the door where the top of the door, window and mirror all meet. Often, if you spray silicone oil on the rubber seals behind the window, it will go up and down like butter. |
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| Jim-Bob | Dec 18 2010, 04:22 AM Post #90 |
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Junkyard Engineer
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Here's today's update on my progress. I did a little more work on the rust with the wire wheels and a cheap, Harbor Freight Dremel-like-tool I found languishing in my tool cabinet. I used a tiny carbide burr to remove as much rust from the tight areas as I could and then coated it with more rust remover gel. it's been sitting on it for about 11 hours now, and it seems to be working pretty well. I just went out and scrubbed at it a bit at around 4AM to keep it working. I hope that by the time I get up ( around noon or 1PM) it should have taken care of the last of the rust. All that will remain is for me to paint it and seal the seam. Anyhow, here are today's pics:![]() ![]() The rust hole! It's small, but I have to eradicate all of the rot before I can go on. The plan is to fill it with JB Weld to add a little strength as well as to properly seal it from moisture. ![]() ![]() The world's crappiest multi-tool. And now... a few products I am using... ![]() Rust proofer-just like Suzuki used to use! If you are wondering what the yellowish substance is that you find in the crevices, this is it. It stays tacky for a long time and keeps moisture out. However, it cannot make up for stupidity. If you have dirt or debris clogging your drains, take care of that first, then fix any surface rust and then use this to seal it up. This can is empty, but a new one will be in on Tuesday. I will be using this stuff inside the rockers, the quarter panel to wheel house seams and the inner to outer door seams. It's only rust free once. After that you will be constantly chasing your tail to keep up with it. ![]() 3M Window Weld. You may be asking yourself why one would use this over the traditional butyl tape. There is a very good reason. The use of urethane glue bonds the glass to the car's body and makes it part of the structure. This cuts down on squeaks and rattles and also adds to the car's ability to absorb crash damage. Use a butyl ribbon on a car with an air bag and the air bag will NOT do it's job in an accident. It will push the windshield out instead. Now, I am not replacing my windshield here. Instead, this was bought to bond the door glass to the track as it does a great job adhering to glass and steel. It isn't cheap though. This tube set me back $18.50, but it is worth it to never have to do it again. ![]() My Harbor Freight score of the day. This assortment of wire wheels was only $3.99. ![]() Finally, we have my E-Bay score of the week. It's a new aftermarket passenger's door mirror manufactured by Dorman. It came complete with glass and the seal to the body. The best part? It was only $18 shipped to my door- and that was the "Buy It Now" price! It pays to slum through E-Bay when you are in the middle of a project! The only bad thing is that it is not one of the ones that have the little handle inside the car to adjust it. Still, that is how the car came when new so I really have no right to complain. At that price it isn't much more than the junkyard would charge for a beat up old one. Edited by Jim-Bob, Dec 18 2010, 04:25 AM.
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