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| Let the rebuild begin | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Nov 19 2010, 10:26 PM (2,160 Views) | |
| Truckdriver09 | Nov 19 2010, 10:26 PM Post #1 |
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I have been wanting to rebuild my engine for a while now, and now that I have the spare time, I'm gonna go ahead and go for it I began my journey today...or so at least I thought. I was unable to remove the oil pan because of these 2 bolts...the other bolt is not pictured because it is on the back-end of the pan. I must be missing something here. I have already struck it several times with a soft-face hammer in an attempt to dislodge it, but no dice. Please go easy on me, I feel dumb enough as it is...not being able to remove an oil pan I will be posting more pics as the build progresses!
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| obaja | Nov 19 2010, 10:28 PM Post #2 |
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Diesel Power
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That is a stud sticking out of the block. A nut goes on there. Just try and pry the oil pan from the block now. If you got all 18 or so bolts out then your ready. |
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| Coche Blanco | Nov 19 2010, 10:31 PM Post #3 |
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Troll Certified
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I tapped mine with a dead blow hammer. I have no idea if that's a good idea or not though. |
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| metroschultz | Nov 19 2010, 11:58 PM Post #4 |
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Please just call me; "Schultz"
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Do Not pry on the pan too hard. You can bend the pan so it will never seal again. I have a 1 1/2 inch putty knife for this type of thing. You need one with a tang that goes all the way through the handle. Sharpen the front and one side of the blade. With a small (ish) hammer, Drive the sharp front end into the teeny tiny space between the pan and the block. Now tap the blade around the perimeter of the pan until all the old RTV has been cut. The pan will now come off with minimal force. |
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| idmetro | Nov 20 2010, 06:43 AM Post #5 |
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It's amazing how strong RTV is when you want it to let go and how weak it is when you want it to hold something. Make sure you have removed the nuts from those two studs and then start separating the pan from the engine. As Metroshultz points out the pan is not made from stout material so don't get too carried away, you might consider working a utility knife into the gap between the pan and block and cutting the RTV, just be careful. Good Luck! |
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| dayle1960 | Nov 20 2010, 08:29 PM Post #6 |
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Fastest Hampster EVER
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Get the biggest screwdriver you can find. Get the biggest hammer you can find. Place the screwdriver between the pan and the block. Strick the screwdriver with the hammer as hard as you can. Keep pounding away until the pan starts to seperate from the block. Now take the biggest pair of plyers you can find and grip the lip of the pan. Pull with all of your strength downwards. The pan should fall away. Now, we all know that this is very impractical because it would ruin either the pan or the block. I just wanted to itterate how not to do what first comes to mind because there is always alternatives available. To help in your quest, I will suggest to first clean the top and bottom of the engine. Once it is free of oil and grime your life as a mechanic will become easier. Fighting grease on your hands is not a pleasant experience. An an old saying "a clean car is a happy car" is a good rule for the metros. At least you can see where leaks are coming from. Good luck. And while you are in the engine, look to see if everything looks correct. Peer up into the cylinders and look at the piston skirts, rods, and crankshaft. A visual inspection with a flashlight now might help in determining if something might be amiss in the engine. Not saying anything is wrong, just want you to take a looksee. terry |
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| Truckdriver09 | Nov 21 2010, 08:31 PM Post #7 |
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Update... Due to rain these past few days, I haven't been able to get anything done, however I did manage to get the oil pan off today. I underestimated the strength of RTV...but with with a putty knife and some TLC, it came right off I plan to have the head off within the next 2 days...more pics to come!
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| JellyBeanDriver | Nov 21 2010, 08:47 PM Post #8 |
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What kind of a rebuild are you going to do? Are you going to pull the crank? |
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| Truckdriver09 | Nov 21 2010, 09:02 PM Post #9 |
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Yeah, I will be pulling the crank. I'm doing a complete rebuild...rings and valves. I have 320,000 miles on the engine and it still has pretty decent compression, but if I am going to be rebuilding it, it has to be now...it will be a long time before I have this kind of spare time again. |
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| iplaybass | Nov 24 2010, 12:17 AM Post #10 |
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did you get it finished? |
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| Truckdriver09 | Nov 26 2010, 10:25 PM Post #11 |
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So I was finally able to get some more work done... I gotta say, it was a pain in the ass getting the oil pump off, it took nearly four hours just to get the compressor and mount off in order to allow the pump to come out...I think I may just be leaving the compressor off for now as I really don't want to spend another half a day putting it back on.![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() As far as I know, the head was rebuilt already...some years ago. ![]() This is 319,000 miles of driving ![]() This is not exactly what I wanted to see when I looked at the #1 main bearing ![]() Same with the cam.... ![]() This is how the intake valve looked after 10 minutes of using a wire wheel on a drill, so I will definitely be buying new ones (I soaked these in diesel fuel for 3 days before attempting to clean them...didn't seem to do much) ![]() I only attempted the wire wheel for 5 minutes on the exhaust valve before giving up...new ones for these as well... ![]() I don't know what to think of the lifters. They look like they have a burn mark of some sort in the middle...should I replace them? ![]() ![]() |
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| GA Geo | Nov 26 2010, 11:02 PM Post #12 |
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| JellyBeanDriver | Nov 27 2010, 01:08 AM Post #13 |
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Doesn't look bad to me considering it's probably had 60-100 oil changes and after each one the engine ran dry for seconds until the oil pressure built up. In regards to the hydraulic buckets, I believe the cam is ground such that as the bucket is depressed, it's rotated too. As long as it isn't pitted I would reuse them. Put them each back in the same bores they came out of though. |
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| JellyBeanDriver | Nov 27 2010, 12:43 PM Post #14 |
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Question: do you have a wear ridge at the top of the cylinder wall? I read how tough our engines are, but at over 300K miles like you and I have, I wonder if there indeed is a wear ridge at the top. |
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| Truckdriver09 | Nov 27 2010, 01:26 PM Post #15 |
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Nope, I didn't have that issue |
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