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| Rusted Brake Lines; Rusted brake Lines | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Dec 22 2010, 09:07 AM (1,348 Views) | |
| leigh | Dec 22 2010, 09:07 AM Post #1 |
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New Member
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Well the Mighty Metro II is running like a champ. Amanda is thrilled with it... I have one remaining major item to do. The brake lines on this car (lived in Buffalo) have a lot of scaled rust on them. I have no way of knowing or testing them. The area of most concern is in the rear around the gas tank. I called the dealer to see if I could by pre made up lines but no go. Dont make them. I have never replaced full brake lines before. My thought is to get Copper/nickel lines, replace absolutely all lines regardless and fill it up with DOT 5 silicone... thinking the silicone wont rot them from the inside out. So my question to yall: - is this project a bitch to do? - if so any suggestions to save time i.e. test the burst pressure of the existing lines and how? - any smart ways to custom bend the lines or re rout the better than the factory? Thanks Leigh |
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| metroschultz | Dec 22 2010, 09:20 AM Post #2 |
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Please just call me; "Schultz"
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First, do not use DOT5, your master cylinder and calipers and wheel cylinders are not designed to run silicone fluid. They need the seal conditioners available in DOT3 and DOT4. If you are worried about rust from the inside, change the fluid every other year. It is easy to do, just bleed the brakes, from farthest to nearest, of the master cylinder, until you see new fluid at the bleeder. This will remove andy moisture the fluid has drawn in. Second, copper lines will not hold the pressure generated by the booster when you hit the brakes. Flexible steel lines are available, and they are inexpensive. 1] - No. Take your time and use care. Buy a good set of tubing benders and a good double flaring tool. ( not the 9.95 thing they sell at the parts store) 2] - I have never tried to burst a line. If you look for the burst pressure, you will have opened the line and made it absolutely necessary to replace. 3] - Not sure. I almost always follow the OEM placement of lines when replacing them. This will make it easier in the future to trace any issues you may have. |
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| bogs | Dec 22 2010, 09:38 AM Post #3 |
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Duct tape heals all wounds
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I have always found them fairly easy to do, as Schultz points out take your time. Having the lift should make running them orders of magnitude easier as well. The hardest part is getting good measurements, when I'm going for my lengths I measure with string, and then run it some extra jic.When bending, I take down the section I'm working on and move to a large work area and line the new ones up to it, bending them as close to the originals as possible. The only thing you really need to worry about is kinking them, however the lines cost very little, if you've never bent line before buy one extra as a practice mule and bend it like crazy till you feel comfortable. I also like the larger diameter bending tools, ymmv. |
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| chevmet | Dec 22 2010, 10:13 AM Post #4 |
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This is one reason to get the undercarriage of the metro washed every once and a while. |
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| WJK | Dec 22 2010, 10:53 AM Post #5 |
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Elite Member
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I am by no way shape or form a mechanic. I got out my book and replaced the rear brakes. during the bleeding process I was lucky enough to blow a brake line. Being on disability funds are very limited. I took to the challenge, went to the parts store around the corner bought a 25 foot roll of brake line and all the fittings. I borrowed the tools for putting the fittings on. I did a couple of practice runs putting the fittings on and off I went. I just took my time, and did the job. So If I can do it, believe me anyone can do it. the worst part for me was laying on the driveway in the heat of the summer. It certainly is not an overly difficult job. Good Luck. Oh it cost me $50.00 CAD tops to redo the back brake lines. |
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| leigh | Dec 22 2010, 12:24 PM Post #6 |
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OK guys y'all convinced me. I will go for it. I was dreading pulling the gas tank down to get access to the back lines which are the worst. Like I mentioned the read area is just all rust. So I suspect I am going to be breaking fasters. As recommended I will just take my time and do them one at a time from the rear forward. On the DOT 5. I have only used DOT 5 for the last 2 years in all vehicles and motorcycles I own. Still havent had any issues but you do need as you point out to be away of the pro's and cons of the different material. Here is a good link to describe the dis/advantages of DOT 3 and 5: http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/cows-brakefluid.html I will update the thread after I get this done... with some pictures. |
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| CityConnection | Dec 22 2010, 12:29 PM Post #7 |
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Sir, yes sir!
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Andy Moisture is a jerk. As others have mentioned, get some extra to practice on. Also, some parts houses have a nice bender and double flare tool that can be rented or even loaned for free with a deposit. |
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| Rooy | Dec 22 2010, 05:31 PM Post #8 |
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If the copper-nickel "Cunifer" lines from FedHill is in your budget, use that. Otherwise, AutoZone and Advance Auto I believe sells Poly-Armour brand poly-coated line that is supposed to be super-easy to bend and flares easier. No bending tools needed. |
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| duff_remle | Dec 22 2010, 07:00 PM Post #9 |
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Advanced Member
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I've had to do brake lines on 2 of my geos. I used the Poly Armor lines, they are very easy to work with. Much cheaper if you buy a roll. Each time the rusty gas lines started to leak where they attach to the side of the gas tank. So i had to pull the tank and also take care of them.
Edited by duff_remle, Dec 22 2010, 07:03 PM.
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I have always found them fairly easy to do, as Schultz points out take your time. Having the lift should make running them orders of magnitude easier as well. The hardest part is getting good measurements, when I'm going for my lengths I measure with string, and then run it some extra jic.
7:44 PM Jul 10