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| Brake pedal to the floor. Help? | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jan 16 2011, 03:15 PM (4,571 Views) | |
| Fireball 89 | Jan 16 2011, 04:58 PM Post #16 |
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2.4 Cylinders of Determination
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Hi kyledye25- Keep trying, you'll get these brakes working just fine. There is air in the brake system, one little air bubble will make the line "mushy", a few little air bubbles will make the system ineffective. When installing new master cylinders, you might try bench bleeding them. Bench bleeding is when you install little lines from the master cylinder outputs back into the master cylinder reservoir, fill the reservoir with brake fluid, then cycle the master cylinder until there is no air bubbles coming from the little lines. Depending on the size and style of the master cylinder, this can be very arduous. The master cylinder can then be installed on the booster/firewall/brake pedal assembly, and then each little line can be quickly disconnected and the brake line installed into the master cylinder outputs. Always keep the master cylinder full of brake fluid. I'm not too sure about the "new" master cylinders that "do not require bench bleeding". I must have not done something right as I've had to pull it out and and bench bleed the "does not require bench bleeding" master cylinders. After all this, then bleed each line at each wheel as shared by members. Hang in there. Edward |
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| kyledye25 | Jan 16 2011, 05:47 PM Post #17 |
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Ok. Well it was a new MC. Dont know if that matters in bleeding it out or not. But I went back out and started at the pass rear and bled it. Alot of air in that line. Then to the driver side rear. That bolt was already stripped....bummer. I cleaned it with brake clean then hit it with pb blaster. Then took a look at it and didnt want to attemp to try to break it loose. But I tryed. No luck. But I can get that taken car of when I get to work....I work at a shop. Too bad the brakes went bad here at home instead at work where it would have been a ton easier. But went back to the front again. Did both...pass front first then driver front. Took it for a ride and it stops! Good too. Not like it did before. But I am sure its because I didnt bleed the one line yet. But I will when I get to work. They also have a vacuum brake bleeder. So I will probably use that instead. Make sure all the lines a bled good. |
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| kyledye25 | Jan 16 2011, 05:50 PM Post #18 |
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Thanks for the info fireball 89. Glad so many people are willing to give there input to help others. And not make them feel like idiots. I have a little mechanical experience. This car really is the first car I started fixing myself. I have tone the timing belt, water pump, radiator and hoses, alternator, head gasket, plugs and wires, and the clutch. It has been a learning experience. Never worked on brakes before. But I appreciate all your guys input. It helps alot. Thanks!! This is such a great forum. |
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| iamgeo | Jan 16 2011, 07:01 PM Post #19 |
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Big League
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Your welcome. |
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| kyledye25 | Jan 21 2011, 07:44 PM Post #20 |
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Well no brakes again. Was ok sunday and monday when I checked the fluid. Then let it go and thursday when I went to go to work the fluid was gone and no brakes. I think its one or both of the wheel cylinders. Do I will pull my drums off and find out. But at least I know now that my master cylinder is good. At least I hope so. It was a reman and I guess it could be bad. But I bet the wheel cylinder on the driver side is bad. I know my buddy who I bought the car off of replaced one of them because it was locking up. But cant remember which one. |
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| idmetro | Jan 21 2011, 07:57 PM Post #21 |
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If you've lost a master cylinders worth of fluid out of a wheel cylinder it shouldn't be too hard to figure out which one(s), there should be residual brake fluid in/near/on the wheel and/or backing plate. if it turns out to have bled out into/onto either your brake shoes or pads you should replace the affected ones. Good Luck! |
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| Johnny Mullet | Jan 21 2011, 08:40 PM Post #22 |
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Fear the Mullet
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If you do not find a leak on the ground, then there is a chance the new master cylinder is toast since it was not properly bench bled before it was installed. Any time I replace a master cylinder, it gets bench bled. There should be instructions on this procedure in the box. What happened is the piston has been overextended too many times in the master cylinder. There may even be fluid in the booster. I had this happen and when I decel or braked hard, the car actually smoked and ran rough because it was sucking the brake fluid into the engine vacuum from the booster ![]() Remove and try to bench bleed the master cylinder. If it does not gain any pressure, return it and bleed it first. |
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| kyledye25 | Jan 23 2011, 05:35 PM Post #23 |
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Well found out my one wheel cylinder was leaking. On the passenger side. So I bought both and decided to go at it. And I bought shoes too cuz my old ones are toast. So I was trying to get the old wheel cylinder out on my driver side and the screw on the brake line to remove it was stripped a little before I even started. Just like the bleeder valve was. Now I know this was replaced already on the car...my buddy told me so. So when they did it they stripped the screws. So I am pissed....I have been trying so hard to break them loose and they wont. Now I am not even sure if its worth doing all this work......or just forget the rear brakes all together. I may krimp the lines somewhere. Or stick a bleeder valve in the master. But I looked at the master cylinder and and there are too brake lines going into it...or coming out...on the one side, how ever you look at it. How do they work exactly? Does one go to the two front then one to the two rear or what? |
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| iamgeo | Jan 23 2011, 05:53 PM Post #24 |
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Big League
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Got pics of the stripped "screws"? |
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| kyledye25 | Jan 23 2011, 05:55 PM Post #25 |
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I could yes. What are ou thinking exactly? I mean they are shot now. I have used everything i can think of to try to get them loose. And nothing. Idk how many times I sprayed them with pb blaster too. |
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| Jittney | Jan 23 2011, 05:58 PM Post #26 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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89-94 brake line layout if that helps |
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| kyledye25 | Jan 23 2011, 06:01 PM Post #27 |
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SWEET! Thanks for the diagram. I been looking online for an hour now trying to find it. Not sure how I didnt. But THANKS!! |
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| iamgeo | Jan 23 2011, 06:05 PM Post #28 |
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Big League
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When you state the screws are stripped, do you mean actual philips head screws or do you mean bolts or nuts? Is the nut that holds the brake line rounded off, or are the threads stripped? Are the bolts that hold the wheel cylinder rounded off your do you mean the threads are stripped and therefor the bolt will not back out? Edited by iamgeo, Jan 23 2011, 06:06 PM.
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| Car Nut | Jan 23 2011, 06:10 PM Post #29 |
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Have you tried using a line wrench on the brake line? Regular open end wrenches usually don't cut it if the hulk installed the line or if you live in the rust belt. Usually a good brand like Snapon, Mac, Cornwell, or even Craftsman works pretty good. Harbor Freight line wrenches are worthless. They will round off a brand new one. Last resort, try vise grips. |
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| kyledye25 | Jan 23 2011, 07:12 PM Post #30 |
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No the bolt that holds the line in is actually stripped. And I made it way worse then it was. I have a decent set of tools. Craftsman. But the metal is just crap metal. Its probably rusted in and even if I have the perfect tool it would be hard to get out. Im so mad right now I dont even want to look at it. Both wheel cylinders are leaking....one is spraying out when you hit the pedal. Mainly cuz I beat the crap out of it. But I cant understand how nothing wants to work on this car. Everything is stripped or rusted. |
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