|Welcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.|
You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:
Join our community!
|94 metro; Battery won't hold a charge|
|Topic Started: Jan 19 2011, 12:16 PM (382 Views)|
|keebler||Jan 19 2011, 12:16 PM Post #1|
|My son has a 94 Metro and the battery won't hold a charge. He can drive around for a few days and then it is dead. Any suggestions?|
|compjake||Jan 19 2011, 12:28 PM Post #2|
Mostest Elitest Member
|I would check the alt first, then start checking for shorts or anything being left on.|
|944door||Jan 19 2011, 12:35 PM Post #3|
Id take the car to advance auto parts and have them load test it for free. Batterys can act stupid when they are going bad.
|Bad Bent||Jan 19 2011, 01:24 PM Post #4|
Facetious Educated Donkey
Welcome to your new forum, keebler!
All of the above. I've had parts stores test my battery and alternator. I'm so-so on trusting them but the advice us usually sound. It would be good to clean all the connections between the Alternator and battery and make sure the Alt. belt is tight.
If the belt is loose it will make noise. The best way to get rid of the high pitch squeal is to pull the belt and clean the pulleys. I used a wire brush and a quick shot of brake parts cleaner.
|keebler||Jan 19 2011, 03:18 PM Post #5|
|brand new battert,|
|Rooy||Jan 19 2011, 06:59 PM Post #6|
The first thing I'd check is if the alternator is charging.
Do you own a voltmeter? If so, check the voltage at the battery terminals while the engine is running. You should see around 13.5-14 volts.
If you don't own a voltmeter, buy one--they're not very expensive, or just take the car to a parts store that offers free alternator/battery testing.
Edited by Rooy, Jan 19 2011, 06:59 PM.
|mwebb||Jan 20 2011, 12:38 AM Post #7|
current drain -
a KISS version
disconnect the battery at night , reconnect when you need to drive the car , disconnect again when not using the car
the battery does NOT get discharged following the suggestion above
something in the car is staying awake and "turned on" , you need to find out what it is
assuming the alternator is functioning as designed AND there is not voltage drop between the alternator and battery
see voltage drop sticky at the top of this forum
you are allowed no more than 75ma drain ,or less than 76ma , lower is better
key in your pocket
, every thing "off" including the dome lights , (doors closed, stereo off)
you can measure with the current function of the new DVOM but don't because you will screw up and pop the fuse
every rookie does .
Radio shack has 10 watt 1 ohm resisters , cheap , cheaper than a fuse for a FLUKE DVOM for sure
or use a 1 ohm resistor in series with either battery cable , measure voltage drop across the resister
since E = IR or voltage = current (in amps) times resistance ( in ohms )
since resistance = 1 ohm then voltage must = current
E = I voltage = amps.
if you see more than 100mv or .1 volts do NOT touch the resister until it cools off , unless you want to remove your finger prints
pull fuses 1 at a time until current drain drops below
the offending fuse powers up the circuit causing your problem
so voltage across the resister = the current drain
|1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)|
|« Previous Topic · Electrical Systems · Next Topic »|