Welcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features: Join our community! |
| Urgent Help! Control Rod | |
|---|---|
| Tweet Topic Started: Feb 10 2011, 06:41 PM (1,558 Views) | |
| WKP | Feb 10 2011, 06:41 PM Post #1 |
|
Born and Bred to Rip and Shred!
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
i'm replacing the spindles on the rear and can't get the darn control rod off(BLACK CIRCLE). I gave up for the day and plan on tackeling it in the morning again. I need help getting this off! It seems like theres another nut or somthing holding it on. I try to pry it off and the rubber flexes. If i use heat, i'm afraid of ruining the rubber on the Rod. I can't afford buying a new one either. I also tried taking off the nut on the other end (YELLOW CIRCLE) and the nut will come off but the bolt wont budge! HELLLLPP!![]() ![]()
Edited by WKP, Feb 10 2011, 06:42 PM.
|
![]() |
|
| Deleted User | Feb 10 2011, 07:34 PM Post #2 |
|
Deleted User
|
Hey WKP! I'm getting ready to replace the control rods on my ride on Saturday. I'll check the FSM in advance and see what the procedure is. By the way, there's a big "O" spring involved there. Be careful. I'll find the pages, and let you know. Looks like you got the outboard nut off. Good start. The inboard nut has an adjustment cam for your rear wheel toe. You don't want to F with this one, if it's set. Back in a minute . . . |
|
|
| Deleted User | Feb 10 2011, 08:01 PM Post #3 |
|
Deleted User
|
There you go, Boss! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
|
|
| Johnny Mullet | Feb 10 2011, 09:12 PM Post #4 |
|
Fear the Mullet
![]()
|
It is rusted on and stuck (welcome to the Great Lakes) and you need to use striking force to remove it. Use lots of penetrating oil (black arrow) and let it soak, strike spindle area behind rod a few good times to loosen any rust and soak more. Then use a big freaking hammer and strike the rod in the direction of (white arrow) and repeat. A few dings won't hurt it. If you have a wide, dull chisel you can wedge in there and strike it to get it moving it will help.
Edited by Johnny Mullet, Feb 11 2011, 06:18 AM.
|
![]() |
|
| 1DCGUY | Feb 10 2011, 11:19 PM Post #5 |
|
Don't be a "Richard"
![]()
|
I used a pickle fork on mine, and it popped loose with one good whack!! Did I mention how much I hate salt on roads!!
|
![]() |
|
| WKP | Feb 11 2011, 12:34 AM Post #6 |
|
Born and Bred to Rip and Shred!
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Thanks for the help Guys! Really appreciate it! Glenn: Where did you get the factory service manual? i could really use one of those! Also, the other guys said that i could just "pop" it out. What inboard nut are you talking about? Johnny Mullet: Where should i strike the spindle at? are you talking about the opposite end of the treads thats on the cast metal part? And what arrows are you talking about. DCGUY: Hope its as easy as you put it!!!! Thanks for the pickle fork idea. Going to get one from my neighbor first thing in the morning! |
![]() |
|
| Johnny Mullet | Feb 11 2011, 07:44 AM Post #7 |
|
Fear the Mullet
![]()
|
Yes, strike the cast part. Believe it or not, the shock from doing this a few good times will help. Arrows are on the pic I forgot to post. It's up now. |
![]() |
|
| Deleted User | Feb 11 2011, 10:55 AM Post #8 |
|
Deleted User
|
WKP. Check eBay and Craigslist for Factory Service Manuals. Some guy in St. Louis has 2 1995 service manuals on Craigslist. I posted a link somewhere on here, yesterday. Sometime those guys are proud of their manuals. Expect to pay around $20 to $30. The only problem with the FSM is that they describe maintenance on a vehicle that is in pristine condition. One of the first things they taught us in aircraft mechanic school is to get a 16 oz. ball peen hammer, "because you'll need it, a lot". The second thing they taught us was not to use it around the customer. |
|
|
| WKP | Feb 11 2011, 11:27 AM Post #9 |
|
Born and Bred to Rip and Shred!
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
UPDATE: Made a puller at 5 this morning. Couldn't sleep so thought i would try it. No luck. Next step is the pickle fork. Sure hope that works! If that doesn't work, i might just have to run it over with my truck! Kidding! This thing is coming off TODAY! Great quote with the ball peen hammer Glenn! |
![]() |
|
| nerys | Feb 11 2011, 11:57 AM Post #10 |
|
Grr
![]()
|
One of your primary problems will be this. The control arm has a rubber bushing on each end. inside the rubber bushing is a METAL BUSHING that slides over the rod and within a bolt (inside) when I did this the METAL BUSHING STAYED BEHIND preventing me from installing the new one and even REMOVING the inside connection. the only way I could remove mine was with a GRINDER. I had to grind away at it till I was able to tear away the sleeve doing as little damage as possible to the car mount and BOLT. Another method is a torch but the BLUE gas is not hot enough you need to go with the yellow bottle (MAP gas) USE CAUTION this gas CAN AND WILL melt metal on this car !! I heated the bushing till it disintegrated heated the control rod till I could tear it up and remove it. I then took the angle grinder to the metal bushing until is was compromised enough to get go. install the new control rod took 60 seconds :-) USE anti seize. Here is my pictures http://www.mylittlemouse.com/control_rod/index.html its a PITA a FUBAR'd PITA but its doable. you can get a decent grinder (ryobi) from home depot for $40 or even cheaper from harbour freight. BE CAREFUL that you don't tear up the mount so much OR THE BOLT that slide through the bushing and PROTECT YOUR EYES. Edited by nerys, Feb 11 2011, 11:59 AM.
|
![]() |
|
| WKP | Feb 11 2011, 12:13 PM Post #11 |
|
Born and Bred to Rip and Shred!
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Thanks Nerys. I saw your thread and that helped alot. I got the control rod off but the darn metal bushing is left on the spindle. I think its time to make my own control rods like someone posted in your thread. They just control the toe of the rear wheels correct? |
![]() |
|
| Deleted User | Feb 11 2011, 12:43 PM Post #12 |
|
Deleted User
|
I bought a set of 2 for my 1996 from Rock Auto for 47.04, delivered. However, they were listed under the Suzuki - Suspension - Lateral Link. If they don't fit, Rock Auto is good with returns, and I'll have to invent plan B. I have no idea why they don't list these for Geo Metro. I checked with the Chevrolet Dealer. These parts are availavle (same LH/RH) for 89-94. 95 and up, SOL. That's why I went to the Rock. |
|
|
| nerys | Feb 11 2011, 10:50 PM Post #13 |
|
Grr
![]()
|
NAPA has them not cheap though. |
![]() |
|
| WKP | Feb 12 2011, 09:14 PM Post #14 |
|
Born and Bred to Rip and Shred!
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
I had a donor car to take the axels off so i didn't need to replace them. Found a trick to getting them off too! I'll be writing a how-to thread on it tomorrow on moday. Whenever i have time. As an update, still not done. Day 4 will be coming tomorrow. Quit early today to rip up the trails! |
![]() |
|
| 1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous) | |
| « Previous Topic · Tires/Wheels/Bearings/Brakes · Next Topic » |


Welcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.


![]](http://z3.ifrm.com/static/1/pip_r.png)
HELLLLPP!













7:44 PM Jul 10