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Timing?
Topic Started: Feb 13 2011, 08:12 AM (2,785 Views)
1DCGUY
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Don't be a "Richard"

Bobbert
Feb 16 2011, 08:51 PM
I going to check the fuel pressure and then back to the timing. Idle pressure and switch on engine off pressure correct?

Bob
Yes, If I remember correctly, it is supposed to be 32 psi with switch on, engine off. Not positive on that, as I have my manual out in my shop. (If someone has a manual handy, could you verify?)

Here is a gauge that is similar to the one that I used, I used the T with one of the pieces of hose on it, and then disconnected the fuel line on the TB, and connected it to the other end, and screwed the gauge on to the shrader valve.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009XQUKC/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000A8N48W&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0794E233FN9TQXB7KP3W
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

Bobbert
Feb 16 2011, 08:57 PM
No, I did not disconnect the vacuum to do the timing.
I'm learning so much on this little car.
Old world stuff. :-/ I keep a pair of golf tees with my timing light. Pull the two vacuum hoses off the distributor and plug them. It does not take much.

I keep a piece of chalk in my kit also and I run that over the timing mark on the crank pulley. It makes the mark show up better. OR you can get a bottle of white nail polish and fill the timing mark. You can also put nail polish on the timing scale to make the mark stand out. I have mine set at 10o and the plastic finger/mark is white.

When viewing the marks, it is best to be in-line with the pistons/engine and at least perpendicular to the timing belt cover. Being to the left or right of the alignment of the two marks will induce what is called parallax error. Like looking at your instrument gauges at an angle could make you think you have more gas in your tank or that your engine is hotter than it really is. :smackface

After tightening the distributor do a quick recheck of the timing.
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Bobbert
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Geo Glenn
Feb 16 2011, 09:12 PM
The timing mark on your camshaft gear is in the center of the small hole. There is a small vertical line through the hole. Your picture shows the cam 180° from where it is supposed to be. No need to remove the timing belt. Just continue to turn the crankshaft until the camshaft and camshaft timing marks align.
The picture was a before shot. I did line up the little hole with the cross hair and from a previous thread the crank gear lined up with the spring bolt.
I did manage to obtain a fuel pressure gage and will be testing that tonight.
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Bobbert
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Test results from fuel pressure test.

Switch on, engine off: 11 psi, book psi 23 to 30.5

idle: 14 psi, book psi 13 to 20

I think I found my problem.
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noseblunter
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Bobbert
Feb 13 2011, 08:48 AM
enginedoctorgeo
Feb 13 2011, 08:44 AM
Pull the cover off the timing belt and align your timing marks and make sure the marks are right and not off a tooth.
I did that before installing since I had a nicer cover to put on. They are right on.
Thanks
Bob
I used a steel straight edge to realign the cam and crank marks, worked like a dream. The ruler will actually sit inside both the little grooves on the G13 engine, but only when aligned.
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1DCGUY
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Don't be a "Richard"

Bobbert
Feb 17 2011, 05:24 PM
Test results from fuel pressure test.

Switch on, engine off: 11 psi, book psi 23 to 30.5

idle: 14 psi, book psi 13 to 20

I think I found my problem.
Good job!! :thumb

I'm going to recommend that you pull the pump, and take it to the parts store so they can match it to the correct pump.
My car had 8 different pumps to choose from, so I highly recommend you go that route.

Let us know how it turns out.

Edited by 1DCGUY, Feb 17 2011, 07:24 PM.
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Bobbert
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1DCGUY
Feb 17 2011, 07:23 PM
Bobbert
Feb 17 2011, 05:24 PM
Test results from fuel pressure test.

Switch on, engine off: 11 psi, book psi 23 to 30.5

idle: 14 psi, book psi 13 to 20

I think I found my problem.
Good job!! :thumb

I'm going to recommend that you pull the pump, and take it to the parts store so they can match it to the correct pump.
My car had 8 different pumps to choose from, so I highly recommend you go that route.

Let us know how it turns out.

Thank you.
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dbudworth
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My car was having the same symptoms as Bobberts car was, with accelerating the gas pedal, the car looses power, and then slowly let off the gas, and it would gain a little more power.

If the fuel pump is starting to fail, would that cause my engine to loose compression over time? Would that burn out the valves and/or rings? All 4 cylinders are at ~100 psi now.
Edited by dbudworth, Feb 18 2011, 08:55 AM.
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Bobbert
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A very expensive lesson I learned. The fuel pump was bad. Instead of buying a brand new pump and hopeing it was the problem I went to the junk yard and paid 40 bucks for the whole tank. Mounted it up, filled up with petro and now I'm cruising with the rest.
I purchased another engine and transmission for nothing. I'm going to re-seal my original engine and just hang on to it.
I learned so much about timing that I dream about it now.
This little thing runs like a scared cat.
Thank you all for your tips and patience.

Bob
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Memphis metro


Glad you got it going. Kind of a confusing thread with engine swapping and all! Electric fuel pumps have differant effects when they do fail. Some just plain quit and for me that is more the norm. Take care.
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Bobbert
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Thought I would check in 27,000 miles later. Never had a bit of trouble since :drivin other than fuel mileage. 3 cyl auto :-/
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chubart
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enginedoctorgeo
Feb 13 2011, 04:57 PM
Pull out the spark plug nearest that cam gear and spin it around till you see the piston all the way up. Stick you a screwdriver down in the hole if you have too and feel the piston as it comes up. The correct timing mark or tooth on the cam gear should be real close to the notch in the red box. With the piston up you will know you have it on comression stroke on number one. Forget all about the white marks.
This is the absolute way to go. Enginedoc suggested the same thing to me after days of trial and error trying to get everything back to order. PLEASE USE THIS METHOD ^o)
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