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Help Rebuilding a Tranny in Cleveland, OH; Bad syncros
Topic Started: Feb 18 2011, 05:15 PM (8,571 Views)
cryboytheman
Mr. Cryer
[ *  *  * ]
So, i tried replacing all circlips (snap rings), simply bc that's what you're supposed to do....well....

that is not the case when it comes to the circlip that holds the "High Speed Hub & Sleeve" in place.

I tried replacing it and my clearance (when adding the 5th gear to the input shaft) was off by about 2mm, just enough to were i couldn't get the final eclip to snap back into it's grove.
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Spock
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Live Long and Prosper.

cryboytheman
Jun 25 2011, 11:10 AM
So, i tried replacing all circlips (snap rings), simply bc that's what you're supposed to do....well....

that is not the case when it comes to the circlip that holds the "High Speed Hub & Sleeve" in place.

I tried replacing it and my clearance (when adding the 5th gear to the input shaft) was off by about 2mm, just enough to were i couldn't get the final eclip to snap back into it's grove.
UH, you lost me. Which snap rings are you saying that you replaced? The one that holds the 5th gear high speed hub and sleeve in place? Do you have pictures? Could you explain further?
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cryboytheman
Mr. Cryer
[ *  *  * ]
Posted Image

Post # 5 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=944174

It's the circlip/snapring that holds the First Gear Hub & Sleeve Assembly in place.

I ordered replacement clips (got them free) from http://www.smalley.com/

******* REQUEST SAMPLES *******
Part Nbr: FSE-0125
Quantity: 3
Material: Carbon Steel


******* REQUEST SAMPLES *******
Part Nbr: FS-029
Quantity: 3
Material: Carbon Steel
Edited by cryboytheman, Jun 29 2011, 10:41 PM.
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cryboytheman
Mr. Cryer
[ *  *  * ]
not having success with turning the input shaft, unless im in N or 1st...

Is it suppose to be that way? i still have the tranny on the bench and was hoping to dry test it as much as possible b4 reinstalling it...
Edited by cryboytheman, Jun 30 2011, 01:11 PM.
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cryboytheman
Mr. Cryer
[ *  *  * ]
The answer to my question (post #49 should i be able to turn the input shaft using my hand) is YES YES YES!!!!

I learned two things:
1. i should have been wearing a glove b/c my hand alone was not strong enough (or getting enough grip) to turn the input shaft.
2. i had to make sure the syncros were lining up the gears, just like when you're driving the car sometimes you have to play with the shifter to get the gears to fall into place.

After taking 1 and 2 into account, i got the shaft to turn. It's ready to be installed!!!!!
Edited by cryboytheman, Jul 20 2011, 10:49 PM.
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Murf 59
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Why are you replacing all the snap rings? Normally not required. Unless they are in really bad shape. You should be able to turn the input with our gloves normally. How does it feel? It should feel nice and smooth. Make sure to shift it before you install it. With it in gear, is when you might need gloves. And make sure it comes back to N, after you shift it into a gear. And R will be the hardest to hit. It may go clunk when it goes into R. Its normal. And then you should be able to look into the axle holes and see the diff turning backwards. If the snap rings are not fitting. Make sure your hubs are in correctly. And make sure that the snap ring is the same exact thickness as the one coming out. Some manf. use them in thousanth of an inch. That way if there is a minor difference between old part and new part. You can wind up with the correct spacing.
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Spock
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Mr Murf 59
Jul 2 2011, 01:34 PM
Why are you replacing all the snap rings? Normally not required. Unless they are in really bad shape. You should be able to turn the input with our gloves normally. How does it feel? It should feel nice and smooth. Make sure to shift it before you install it. With it in gear, is when you might need gloves. And make sure it comes back to N, after you shift it into a gear. And R will be the hardest to hit. It may go clunk when it goes into R. Its normal. And then you should be able to look into the axle holes and see the diff turning backwards. If the snap rings are not fitting. Make sure your hubs are in correctly. And make sure that the snap ring is the same exact thickness as the one coming out. Some manf. use them in thousanth of an inch. That way if there is a minor difference between old part and new part. You can wind up with the correct spacing.
:+1 :+1 :+1 :+1


Make sure that thing will shift correctly before you install it.
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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

I could have had my good tranny in your car and had you on the road in February.

Just sayin :beer
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cryboytheman
Mr. Cryer
[ *  *  * ]
Johnny Mullet
Jul 6 2011, 08:58 PM
I could have had my good tranny in your car and had you on the road in February.

Just sayin :beer
I'm in no rush :rocker ; I have had an awesome time learning how to do it myself...the experience has been worth it to me. Thanks for the offer though.
Edited by cryboytheman, Jul 20 2011, 10:52 PM.
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cryboytheman
Mr. Cryer
[ *  *  * ]
HELP....HELP...HELP

Two Problems:
1. Car will not shift into 1,3,5...(does this mean that the clutch is out of adjustment? if so, how do i adjust it?)
2. Transmission makes a loud humming noise when the engine starts to decelerate (syncromesh did not come out of tranny, although i did put TWO quarts of it)

I only have tomorrow to work on the metro, so any suggestions would be great.
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cryboytheman
Mr. Cryer
[ *  *  * ]
Mr Murf 59 - "If your clutch was adjusted to much, IE to tight. It could slip. If it were to loose. It would be a hard shift into the lower gears. You should have about 1/16 to 1/8" free play between the adjuster and the arm. Revearse is the hardest gear to get into. NO syncro. If you have to pump the pedal or hear it go thunk into R. It needs to be tightend up. Most likely its a worn out clutch. When you get our kit, make sure it has a pilot bearing. It will need to be replaced too." (http://geometroforum.com/topic/3190206/2/)

And it looks like i needed 3 quarts of syncromesh....on my way to walmart;) back in a bit.
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cryboytheman
Mr. Cryer
[ *  *  * ]
So, i have the clutch adjusted has high as it will go (adjustment screw is closer to the firewall than it is to the radiator) and still no luck; I can not get the car to go into 1,3,5, nor R. I still need another quart of syncromesh, wal-mart does not carry it.

I don't know what to do from here...
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Woodie
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2.5 quarts, no more, no less.

That sounds like a linkage or motor mount problem to me. If it were the clutch, then 2 and 4 wouldn't want to go in either.
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dayle1960
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Fastest Hampster EVER

Cryboytheman, might I make a suggestion reguarding the synchromesh? Since you are puttling your tranny together and it isn't working correctly, then do as mr.murf has done in the past and use motor oil in the case. Look, I am the firmest believer in synchromesh, BUT if you have to pull the tranny again in order to crack it open, then I suggest that using a 30 weight motor oil initially would be a good decision and a lot less expensive. Once the tranny is up and running correctly, then dump the motor oil and replace it with the synchromesh.

Just my two cents worth of information. To back up my theory, I used 90 weight tranny lube when I first got my metro and it ruined the 2nd gear synchro. Since then I have been using synchromesh religiously and have not had any issues. Then I had a mechanical failure on the fifth gear and started flushing with synchromesh and soon became a poor man. When I read about Mr.Murf recommendation about 30 weight oil in the slushbox I was tempted to try it as a replacement fluid for the flush. I've had the motor oil in the tranny for about 3 weeks now with no problems. Just trying to save you some bucks.
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cryboytheman
Mr. Cryer
[ *  *  * ]
dayle1960
Jul 10 2011, 07:19 AM
Cryboytheman, might I make a suggestion reguarding the synchromesh? Since you are puttling your tranny together and it isn't working correctly, then do as mr.murf has done in the past and use motor oil in the case. Look, I am the firmest believer in synchromesh, BUT if you have to pull the tranny again in order to crack it open, then I suggest that using a 30 weight motor oil initially would be a good decision and a lot less expensive. Once the tranny is up and running correctly, then dump the motor oil and replace it with the synchromesh.

Just my two cents worth of information. To back up my theory, I used 90 weight tranny lube when I first got my metro and it ruined the 2nd gear synchro. Since then I have been using synchromesh religiously and have not had any issues. Then I had a mechanical failure on the fifth gear and started flushing with synchromesh and soon became a poor man. When I read about Mr.Murf recommendation about 30 weight oil in the slushbox I was tempted to try it as a replacement fluid for the flush. I've had the motor oil in the tranny for about 3 weeks now with no problems. Just trying to save you some bucks.
Has anyone else had success with using 30 weight motor oil and then switching over to synchoromesh?

At this point, I have no idea what else to try; everything looks like it should work.....

If any of you guys have time to give me a call, my number is 440.two 63.1407; name's Joshua.
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