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| Tofuball's '94 XFi; It's all about city MPG | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Mar 12 2011, 08:59 AM (39,431 Views) | |
| Tofuball | Aug 23 2011, 01:09 PM Post #271 |
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Strange Mechanic
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Just driving along and they pop? Ouch! I haven't seen any bulging or anything. But I'm definitely going to keep an eye on it ![]() Thanks for the warning. How much was yours, where did you get it, and have you done that in the winter? |
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| eage8 | Aug 23 2011, 03:29 PM Post #272 |
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Fresh Fish
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yeah, it seemed to of happened when they used up a lot of the energy and the car's charging system charged them back up which was too much for the batteries. I got mine from ebay for about $80 shipped. I haven't tried mine in the winter yet, I don't don't foresee a problem, it starts it pretty easily (I don't notice and difference between that and the 42 lb battery I used to have.) and Goldwing riders ride around in the winter and they have bigger engines than my corolla does haha. |
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| Tofuball | Aug 23 2011, 03:55 PM Post #273 |
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Strange Mechanic
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$80 shipped is awesome. I think I'll wait for mine to explode though. I really want to see this proof-of-concept thing through. I don't subject mine to any real stresses, I only use it to start the car. I never just sit there with the car on listening to the radio or anything. I don't even use my dome light. |
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| Coche Blanco | Aug 23 2011, 03:56 PM Post #274 |
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Troll Certified
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My damn Wink mirror blocks the switch to my dome light. lol |
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| Tofuball | Aug 25 2011, 09:54 AM Post #275 |
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Strange Mechanic
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Uh oh. This poor old RBC2 battery (Sitting since 2008) seems to drop voltage now at start - I still start right up, but my radio forgets the time and stations. That is an indication of unacceptable draw. If I cleaned up my starter and fixed up the grounds and wires going to it, it may improve, however I think this battery is a little too small, combined with being a bit old. Because of that, I am thinking winter starting power may be unacceptable and cannot recommend using just one recycled RBC2 at this time. Two would probably be fine, and at $40 for two it is half the price of an AGM, but the AGM would probably last longer. Edited by Tofuball, Aug 25 2011, 09:57 AM.
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| Tofuball | Sep 2 2011, 11:12 PM Post #276 |
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Strange Mechanic
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It's a bit late, but here is a picture of the suspension being replaced:
Edited by Tofuball, Sep 3 2011, 05:37 AM.
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| Woodie | Sep 3 2011, 05:36 AM Post #277 |
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I don't see you anywhere in that picture. |
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| Tofuball | Sep 3 2011, 05:37 AM Post #278 |
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Strange Mechanic
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I've edited the post for clarity. |
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| Tofuball | Sep 6 2011, 12:16 PM Post #279 |
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Strange Mechanic
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My friend Theo just told me I could have a set of RX-7 rims he had sitting around. Awesome - they bolt right up and should shave some weight off (especially if I don't put any tires on them, tires are heavy!). Still waiting on this flat piston thing to see what to do about my compression. A friend of mine said he has access to a decent lathe that I could use, so I'll see about making a few pullies. I've decided putting the pickup wheel on the outside ring of the crank is not ideal. The crank moves way too much for my taste on most Metros I have observed. |
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| Tofuball | Sep 8 2011, 08:30 PM Post #280 |
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Strange Mechanic
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Been driving in fantastically bad traffic. New job takes me 45 minutes to get to work, 9 miles. Lots of sitting at lights, flooring it around people trying to kill me, and bumper to bumper. 11 miles on the trip back, still 45 mins, MPG is significantly better. Averaging out to 47mpg in this foul drive. |
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| t3ragtop | Sep 8 2011, 09:29 PM Post #281 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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expound on this for me, tofu. i have my crank trigger wheel mounted to an aluminum underdrive pulley and it has minimal runout and good concentricity. it's well within the spec for use on a megasquirt. i'm currently building another 36-1 wheel, this time mounting the toothed wheel on the back side of a different style aluminum underdrive pulley (closest to the timing belt.) that will let me mount the v/r sensor on the top of the pulley on the inside of the timing belt loop. i'll bolt the v/r sensor to the front of the oil pump. it just worked out that the id of the trigger wheel fit the od of the new pulley's hub precisely without any machine work which makes the concentricity a natural, no brainer. that makes the trigger wheel fixed to one position instead of being adjustable for dialing in the tooth angle but as long as you give the missing tooth position an offset from the pulley's tdc position that's twice your total advance, you can dial in the tooth angle in the megasquirt's firmware. also, as far as the v/r sensor's air gap, a millimeter is great and 5 millimeters will work, too. as it is, when rpms increase, my v/r's output can go as high as 70 volts. half a volt is plenty of signal for the megasquirt's v/r detection circuit, especially if you use the lm3815 adaptive v/r integrated circuit as a signal conditioner. if you don't use the crankshaft to mount the trigger, what's your plan? |
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| Tofuball | Sep 9 2011, 07:25 AM Post #282 |
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Strange Mechanic
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Yours might be fine, but for some reason mine and a few others I observed weren't. Inside of the crank pulley instead of outside is all I'm thinking. |
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| Tofuball | Sep 18 2011, 05:46 PM Post #283 |
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Strange Mechanic
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Picked up the rims and tires for my and Tom's cars. Replaced the AFR gauge with a working one. Fixed the MPGuino. My welding class ended. I hope my skill is enough to fix this bend in the exhaust ports. I'm pretty sure I can make a better exhaust manifold to match up . Edited by Tofuball, Sep 18 2011, 05:54 PM.
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| t3ragtop | Sep 18 2011, 06:19 PM Post #284 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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by inside do you mean between the pulley and the oil pump or on the inside diameter as opposed to the outside diameter? |
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| Tofuball | Sep 18 2011, 06:35 PM Post #285 |
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Strange Mechanic
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Between the pulley and the oil pump |
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