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95 Geo Metro won't start... I need help!
Topic Started: Mar 30 2011, 12:23 PM (4,134 Views)
mwellner4
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Alright, so I just bought my 95 Geo Metro (3 cyl 1.0L Manual Trans) last week for a couple hundred bucks and I was driving it around for like 5 or 6 days just fine... I already knew it had low compression so it took a second to start it anyways and once it got warmed up it would idle. Had a guy look at it and he told me it had bad valves. Then it quit the very next day (which was yesterday). I'm thinking the low compression is the problem and the reason why it won't start. It sounds like it wants to start and I've checked everything else that I could without taking it apart (spark plugs, wires, it has a new alternator, the crank turns, the belts are all turning... other than that I don't know much).

I plan on taking the head off this weekend using the tidbits I've learned on these forums and then just taking the head in for someone professional to refurbish the valves. Does anyone have any insight on what I should replace other that the valves that I can replace while putting everything back together? Also does anyone think the problem could be something else?
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Deleted User
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Remove the oil filler cap. Have someone attempt to start the engine. Check to see that the camshaft is turning through the oil filler opening. If not, you have a broken timing belt.
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GeoGirl66
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does it got gas? or is it getting gas?
if it sounds like it wants to start but is having a time doing it. Id say not getting gas- fuel filter cloged, can u pull the line, spray some starter fluid in throtle body? Min road on 2 clynder coming back from Onamia-1.5 hrs north of the Twni Cities, made it home in 4 hrs.
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mwellner4
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Geo Glenn
Mar 30 2011, 12:32 PM
Remove the oil filler cap. Have someone attempt to start the engine. Check to see that the camshaft is turning through the oil filler opening. If not, you have a broken timing belt.
The camshaft is turning... but the timing belt is turning also.
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mwellner4
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GeoGirl66
Mar 30 2011, 12:35 PM
does it got gas? or is it getting gas?
if it sounds like it wants to start but is having a time doing it. Id say not getting gas- fuel filter cloged, can u pull the line, spray some starter fluid in throtle body? Min road on 2 clynder coming back from Onamia-1.5 hrs north of the Twni Cities, made it home in 4 hrs.
How can I tell if its getting gas?
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GeoStalker
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"Chicks dig me and guys think I'm cool."

mwellner4
Mar 30 2011, 01:15 PM
GeoGirl66
Mar 30 2011, 12:35 PM
does it got gas? or is it getting gas?
if it sounds like it wants to start but is having a time doing it. Id say not getting gas- fuel filter cloged, can u pull the line, spray some starter fluid in throtle body? Min road on 2 clynder coming back from Onamia-1.5 hrs north of the Twni Cities, made it home in 4 hrs.
How can I tell if its getting gas?
WHEN IT STARTS!! :P

Just kidding. Sounds like the compression has finally caught up to you, even though you've only had it a day or so. Buy a cheap compression kit ($25 at Autozone) and check the numbers. That's the thing about these cars....they'll fire up with low compression....then one day.....NOTHING!
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You do know bad valves cause low or no compression also right? It isn't always wore out piston rings. a blown head gasket also causes a no compression, if the blown out part is between two cylinders, then you loose compression on 2 cylinders.

Get a compression gauges... it a quick dirty way to see a major issue.

once you identify these is no compression, get a cylinder leak down tester... Hands down, the cylinder leak down test will tell you what the problem is..
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

Welcome to your new forum, mwellner4! :coffee

The compression test link is http://geometroforum.com/topic/2574993/1/ Basically, a warm engine, plugs out, full (WOT) throttle, removed coil wire.

So you need to be checking for air (filter), fuel (remove the larger intake fuel hose from the Throttle Body, stick it in a bottle and try starting. You should hear the fuel pump whine when you first turn the key to start the engine. Pump is in the gas tank, fuel filter should be under the car, under the drivers seat. Spark is spark, it should jump 13mm from the plug wire to the plug or block. I'd clean the engine grounds at the dist./tranny/engine and there is one on the intake manifold, in back above the alternator. And or course compression. :-/

I'll suggest you change the vacuum hoses when you can, they are probably old.
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bigsquat
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good advise from the guru's here. just be carfull when you want to turn the engine over for what ever reason and not have it start. dont just unplug the high voltage from the coil. unplug the low voltage side. if the coil fires with no where for the spark to go ,it will try to find one. you have a good chance of blowing the coil. ive done it ! if you want to test spark the best way is with a tester designed for that , there cheap. if you decide to just ground the coil wire to the block be carefull not to lift it to far and make it impossible for the spark to jump

the same goes for pulling a plug wire..
Edited by bigsquat, Mar 30 2011, 08:54 PM.
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mwellner4
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The compression is low... I did find that out... I also think the fuel pump is bad. I got it started today and drove it to work and then back to work after i finally got it started after work lol. I'm gonna buy all new gaskets and take it apart to replace the valves because I already had a mechanic tell me the valves were bad. I might as well buy a new fuel pump too. Do I need to take the engine out to get the head off to replace the valves? I should have a haynes manual coming in the mail today or tomorrow. I'm hoping I can take it apart with the engine still mounted in the car. It does idle after its warm though. I've never had a stick before and its really fun to drive but I'm also looking forward to the amazing gas mileage. I just don't want to spend more than a grand on it.
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mwellner4
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Thanks for all of the advice so far guys. I'm really looking forward to having a nice Geo Metro eventually to get me all around Arizona.
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idmetro
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You'll want to do some reading before you get started. If you have more than 100,000 miles on the engine I would suggest replacing rings and bearings as well. I've attached some links to useful How-Tos below:

Head Repair guide: http://geometroforum.com/topic/638797/6/#new
Bottom End Reapir Guide: http://geometroforum.com/topic/2335235/2/#new
timing Belt Replace Guide: http://geometroforum.com/topic/2232748/7/#new

Good Luck!
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mwellner4
Apr 1 2011, 12:40 AM
The compression is low... I did find that out... I also think the fuel pump is bad. I got it started today and drove it to work and then back to work after i finally got it started after work lol. I'm gonna buy all new gaskets and take it apart to replace the valves because I already had a mechanic tell me the valves were bad. I might as well buy a new fuel pump too. Do I need to take the engine out to get the head off to replace the valves? I should have a haynes manual coming in the mail today or tomorrow. I'm hoping I can take it apart with the engine still mounted in the car. It does idle after its warm though. I've never had a stick before and its really fun to drive but I'm also looking forward to the amazing gas mileage. I just don't want to spend more than a grand on it.
Not saying this is a problem for you, just be aware, that there could be trash in the gas tank, that floats arround and then sticks to the fuel pump, pick up screen... Could be rusting gas tank, or what not..

I had a old truck that had sat up for a few years with a empty gas tank, ran perfect when i bought it, 20 miles late no power, and constanly dieing.. would crank back up eventually, but would eventually die, and wouldn't go over 25mph on the side of the rode, that was a long 4 hour(at 70mph) trip back home...

I eventually go home and dropped the tank... filled the tank full part full with rocks.... shock the heck out of it to bust all the loose rust out of the tank, emptied it, reinstalled and it ran like a champ.. never a lick of troubles from them on;.
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mwellner4
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Ok so I'm taking this thing apart to get to the head and I'm having trouble following the guidelines in other posts on here to remove the head... my main problem right now is getting the belts off and what oder do I need to take everything off? Please help!
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96Geoman


mwellner4
Apr 9 2011, 07:52 PM
Ok so I'm taking this thing apart to get to the head and I'm having trouble following the guidelines in other posts on here to remove the head... my main problem right now is getting the belts off and what oder do I need to take everything off? Please help!
Before you take anything apart, I would suggest that you take pictures of the engine and label the wire connections that you take apart.

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