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95 Geo Metro won't start... I need help!
Topic Started: Mar 30 2011, 12:23 PM (4,135 Views)
mwellner4
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96Geoman
Apr 9 2011, 07:59 PM
mwellner4
Apr 9 2011, 07:52 PM
Ok so I'm taking this thing apart to get to the head and I'm having trouble following the guidelines in other posts on here to remove the head... my main problem right now is getting the belts off and what oder do I need to take everything off? Please help!
Before you take anything apart, I would suggest that you take pictures of the engine and label the wire connections that you take apart.

ive taken pictures from all angles already so i dont get confused later and im labeling things and putting them in baggies. im just clueless on how to get these belts off... especially the timing belt.
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96Geoman


Take off the alternator & waterpump belt and AC belt

Note: loosen alternator to remove belt, loosen AC compressor tensioner to remove belt.

Remove the crankshaft pulley.

Remove all bolts holding the timing cover including a nut in the center of the cover.

Remove cover

Loosen belt tensioner

Remove belt


While you have the engine apart, consider installing a new waterpump and a new timing belt / tensioner kit. Check crankshaft seal to make sure it's not leaking.
Edited by 96Geoman, Apr 9 2011, 09:47 PM.
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mwellner4
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Alright I'm making progress... but i took the 3 intake manifold bolts off like it says in the Haynes Manual and the SOB wont budge... I'm stumped. How do I get this intake manifold off? Also how do i take off the distributor?
Edited by mwellner4, Apr 10 2011, 09:12 PM.
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96Geoman


mwellner4
Apr 10 2011, 09:10 PM
Alright I'm making progress... but i took the 3 intake manifold bolts off like it says in the Haynes Manual and the SOB wont budge... I'm stumped. How do I get this intake manifold off?
I think there are 4 bolts and 2 or 3 nuts that hold the intake on. Look underneath the intake runners.
Edited by 96Geoman, Apr 10 2011, 09:24 PM.
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

Might get a can of PB Blaster and give the offending bolt/nut a quick shot every morning for a week. I use a breaker bar or something at least a foot long for more torque. Might try medium strength tightening the nut/bolt first. :-/

The distributor is held on with two 12 or 13 mm bolts, or maybe the dreaded Torx head bolts. They can be replaced with Allen head bolts if you wish. :D
If you remove the distributor CAP then there are two bolts left holding the distributor to the head. Mark the location of the distributor before you remove the two bolts. Granted your timing is correct or set to 8 o BTDC.
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mwellner4
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Ok so I got everything off except for the head bolts... they are 14mm bolts and I have the order to take them off from the haynes manual... only problem is that it broke my best 14mm socket trying to remove the first one lol... it split right in half. Does anyone have a suggestion at what type of socket I should buy specifically for the head bolts?
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idmetro
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mwellner4
Apr 11 2011, 12:38 AM
Ok so I got everything off except for the head bolts... they are 14mm bolts and I have the order to take them off from the haynes manual... only problem is that it broke my best 14mm socket trying to remove the first one lol... it split right in half. Does anyone have a suggestion at what type of socket I should buy specifically for the head bolts?
I'm making a assumption here but if you split the socket likely two things are true: 1) it's an inexpensive set made somewhere off continent 2) it's a 3/8" drive.

Time to upgrade - buy a 1/2" drive set, preferably of a type that comes with a lifetime warranty (return the broken parts for free replacement), and supplement the set by getting a 6 point 14mm for the head bolts. Several manufacturers will fill the bill here: I believe Sears (Craftsman), Napa, Autozone (don't remember their brand), Home Depot, Lowes, all offer hand tools that guarantee free replacement if broken (these won;t be the cheapest but will pay you back over and over). If you are going to do this for a living then it may be worth the upgrade to Snap-on or some of the other tools where they will come to you.

Add a cheater bar for some additional leverage and you should be good to go.

Good Luck!
Edited by idmetro, Apr 11 2011, 05:14 AM.
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Murf 59
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:gp Also our head bolts are designed to be used only once. Contact 3Tech for a set of replacement head bolts. Ours stretch.
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mcmancuso
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I use impact sockets, they don't break under hand use :D
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mwellner4
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idmetro
Apr 11 2011, 05:12 AM
mwellner4
Apr 11 2011, 12:38 AM
Ok so I got everything off except for the head bolts... they are 14mm bolts and I have the order to take them off from the haynes manual... only problem is that it broke my best 14mm socket trying to remove the first one lol... it split right in half. Does anyone have a suggestion at what type of socket I should buy specifically for the head bolts?
I'm making a assumption here but if you split the socket likely two things are true: 1) it's an inexpensive set made somewhere off continent 2) it's a 3/8" drive.

Time to upgrade - buy a 1/2" drive set, preferably of a type that comes with a lifetime warranty (return the broken parts for free replacement), and supplement the set by getting a 6 point 14mm for the head bolts. Several manufacturers will fill the bill here: I believe Sears (Craftsman), Napa, Autozone (don't remember their brand), Home Depot, Lowes, all offer hand tools that guarantee free replacement if broken (these won;t be the cheapest but will pay you back over and over). If you are going to do this for a living then it may be worth the upgrade to Snap-on or some of the other tools where they will come to you.

Add a cheater bar for some additional leverage and you should be good to go.

Good Luck!
The Socket wrench is a Snap-on 1/2" drive... but the socket was made by a company called Challenger. Also I've already bought new head bolts.
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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

Them head bolts are really tight!
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mwellner4
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After buying a new socket I got them head bolts off like nothing. All my valves are burnt... and there is black shit all over the pistons... how do i clean them? or do i need to rebuilt the bottom end too? I'm gonna take the head in to someone that knows what they are doing... but at this point I'm clueless as to what to do about the cylinders.
Edited by mwellner4, Apr 11 2011, 06:33 PM.
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mwellner4
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as a side note... the cylider walls look very good as well as the rings front what i can see.
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mwellner4
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I also just noticed that there are only pieces of the head gasket left... so thats part of the problem too.
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96Geoman


If the engine has high miles and was burning oil, I would suggest rebuilding the bottom end if you can afford to do so.

First, buy a GM service manual for this car, there are plenty for sale on Ebay.

When you decide to rebuild the bottom end, replace the oil pump, water pump and clutch (if worn) in addition to the bearings, piston rings, seals etc.

You won't regret rebuilding the entire engine but if the bottom end is worn out, you will have to take everything apart again in the future.

If the engine burned oil, the catalytic converter may need to be replaced in the future due to clogging from oil.

Take lots of pictures during disassembly, they will help if you forget where a part goes or how a part fits.

Tag all disconnected electrical connections.
Edited by 96Geoman, Apr 11 2011, 08:05 PM.
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