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| HARBOR FREIGHT TOOLS; discount coupons | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Apr 3 2011, 07:35 PM (3,778 Views) | |
| Way | Jun 7 2011, 06:30 AM Post #16 |
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I've got an engine stand in that style but I don't really like it too much. Seems like it's just stable enough that I feel like I've got to tiptoe around it. I also have one in this style and I like it MUCH better: Big Red 1250 lb Engine Stand I don't have this exact model (love the parts tray) but the wider base makes it very stable and also it's alot easier to put a drip pan under the motor or a bucket etc. When not using it I can store other stuff in between the base. It's only about $30 more but I feel it's well worth it. Might even be able to get it cheaper with a coupon but haven't searched for one. Overkill for our motors maybe, but that's not a bad thing either. |
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| Murf 59 | Jun 7 2011, 07:12 AM Post #17 |
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For our engines. I made a small rectangle shaped box for it to sit in. Works great when building our engines. When I was doing engine and trans installs, and later when I became a builder. I would only buy and use Snap On, and Mac tools. I had problems with Craftsman rachets. And other C class tools. I was always to keep 12 rachets in my box, so that I could always have one that worked. I got real tired of driving to Sears to replace it. And losing skin on my knuckles when they would strip out the gears inside the rachet. And the guys down there got tired of seeing me coming in to warranty them. I bought one Snap On rachet. Yeah it was pricey. But I still have that rachet. That was almost 25 years ago. It has never worn out. I would buy tools that would last a life time. Now that I am approaching 50. The trip is not so far. So the tools don't have to last as long. And I am not working in my trade anymore. There just is not work like that where I live. |
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| Way | Jun 7 2011, 07:29 AM Post #18 |
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That sounds interesting! Did you use 2X6's? If I didn't already have my stand I'd definitely use something like that. |
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| mcmancuso | Jun 7 2011, 10:02 AM Post #19 |
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I did the same, build a 2X6 box around 3 sides of the oil pan (flywheel side open) with a pair of 2X4's across the bottom |
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| ponzy | Jun 7 2011, 08:57 PM Post #20 |
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pics? thanks :-) |
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| argonaut405 | Jul 19 2011, 11:57 PM Post #21 |
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New Member
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they do have some great deals but you have to be careful. I bought that compression tester for $12 and it gave me an average reading of about 180psi in all cylinders. When I borrowed a compression tester from auto zone the reading was about 140 |
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| t3ragtop | Jul 20 2011, 06:42 PM Post #22 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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ponzy, here's what i used to build my project engine. it didn't need to be much. i used the short 2x4s to make it stable as it sat on a waist high shelf which made it easy for me to work on while i was standing up. i built the engine in my basement over a winter. it also happened to be just a couple of feet in front of my chair in my "man cave" in front of my personal computer space. that made it handy to eyeball while i was pondering deep design ideas. my buddy, chuckwagon, strapped the whole deal on like a jet pack and carried it up my basement steps, out my back door, and around the house (the long way ) and set it on my outside work bench.my latest foray to harbor freight was to search for heat shrink tubing to continue with my custom wiring. i found 8 foot rolls of 5/32" polyolefin with a 2:1 ratio in green or red for $1.99. i also picked up a 144 piece kit of pre-cut various diameter shrink tube in a nice plastic divider box on sale for $4.99 |
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| Metro Fanatic | Jul 20 2011, 07:34 PM Post #23 |
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I'll pick up that jack for $59.99. The guy who delivered my white 92 used it. Lifted the entire side of the car in 3 pumps. He swore by it.
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| ponzy | Jul 20 2011, 11:12 PM Post #24 |
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![]() ![]() Coupon on top has no minimum purchase requirement. |
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| Rustman | Jan 26 2012, 03:42 PM Post #25 |
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For a really good pry bar, I use one similar to this: http://www.homedepot.com/buy/tools-hardware/hand-tools/estwing/18-in-ibeam-construction-pry-bar-115870.html The I-Beam shape in the middle gives it a LOT more rigidity than what the flat bars have. Another thing to note is that we have an I-bar (that's what we've always called them) that my grandfather had when he was a young sport way back in the 1920s, and it's still in great shape. So I know for a fact that a forged I-bar will last you a long time. And True Value Hardware stores in my area sell them for about $20. |
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| Rustman | Jan 26 2012, 04:01 PM Post #26 |
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Personally, I would choose a wrench shaped like this: http://www.etrailer.com/merchant2/graphics/00000001/pics/C/2/C20001_3_1000.jpg rather than a wrench shaped like this, any day: http://faq.f650.com/GSFAQs/Photos/HGasketValvePhotos/wrench22mm_763x581.jpg The six point wrenches generally tend to last longer and they don't tend to round off bolt and nut heads the way a 12 point wrench will. The main reason the 12 point wrenches are even still on the market is because they can fit into tighter spots. |
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) and set it on my outside work bench.


8:00 PM Jul 10