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| 1994 geo metro fuel pump relay | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Apr 6 2011, 12:35 AM (4,461 Views) | |
| key4202003 | Apr 6 2011, 12:35 AM Post #1 |
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Advanced Member
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hello everyone, when i got the car, the fuel pump relay was wired weird so i thought it was just bad. it ran great before, but now with new fuel relay, foreign wires removed, wont start. i used test light, with the battery hooked up: the black plug tests: with the key off: nothing lights up. with the key on: black/w white line, and pink/w white line (very dim) the white plug tests, battery hooked up: with key off: white/w red line with key on: white/w red line, black/w white line, blue (very dim) i have been reading forum posts for a few hours and feel i am chasing my freaking tail. any thoughts about where to start tomorrow? also where is the main relay located? where is the fuse that protects the fuel pump relay and the ignition coil? thanks joshua Edited by key4202003, Apr 6 2011, 01:29 AM.
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| Bad Bent | Apr 6 2011, 02:27 AM Post #2 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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Welcome to your new forum, key4202003! I don't know electronics except to follow schematics but maybe I can lead you down a garden path... Try clicking on; Online Wiring Diagrams Fuse Boxes Fuel Pump Relay Questions |
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| key4202003 | Apr 6 2011, 07:31 PM Post #3 |
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Advanced Member
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thanks for the reply! i have been studying the wiring diagrams. i checked the fuel injection 15 amp fuse in the main fuse box, good i checked the ignition system fuse #6, 20 amp on the instrument panel fuse box, good i think i need to find out why there is no power to the white/ w blue line wire. help, where should i look? thanks joshua |
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| Jittney | Apr 6 2011, 09:36 PM Post #4 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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A $3 DVOM from Harbor Freight will help with diagnostics. |
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| mwebb | Apr 6 2011, 09:44 PM Post #5 |
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FOG
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go to the electrical section in this very forum read the T PIN and VOLTAGE DROP threads then read the articles by Jorge Menchu linked in those threads and as Jittney says BUY a DVOM , yesterday |
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| key4202003 | Apr 6 2011, 10:49 PM Post #6 |
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Advanced Member
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wow the wiring diagrams are really hard to understand and translate to my year. i guess i am not asking the right questions. i will just learn my lesson, and pay someone who can understand this, because i cannot get the help i am looking for. oh well, its just money |
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| Jittney | Apr 6 2011, 11:59 PM Post #7 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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my apologies, key4202003. I should have written more. I read your first post a few times, but didn't write what I was really thinking. so, here goes my train of thought. The wiring harnesses in these little cars is lightweight. Other people have run into problems like.... -- when they welded a piece of metal someplace close to the harness, the sheath melted and a few days of driving broke the sheath and resulted in a short in that circuit....and it took a week to track it down. -- the harness gets stressed and cracked where the main bundle goes through the firewall (between the steering wheel and the engine) -- corrosion sets in at grounds (particularly in the engine bay) and a circuit shorts out. -- the driver's door sags over time, the 'door closed' button in that area gets loose and does not depress, leaving a trickle drain of electricity, and the battery goes dead day after day. So, there are a number of things that can, and do, deteriorate on the electrical systems. Your car is the same as mine.... a 94. It would appear that something happened in the fuel relay circuit....the previous owner knew it....and could not find it, but was savvy enough to cobble up a fix. You've taken out the fix, and now you are back where the previous owner was. There is sufficient experience and help on this forum to point you in the direction of finding the electrical problem, but it is a step by step process of elimination. If you take your car to a mechanic, he may or may not be able to find it. Electrical problems are not something all mechanics want to tackle. They may just start replacing expensive electrical components. A better option might be to take the car to a qualified stereo installation business. They are geared towards electrical issues....of course. I am willing to take pictures of my car, if that will help you. I'll hook up my cheapo DVOM and show you what readings I get where...and you can compare. It's up to you. We are here to help. You will be ecstatic when you fix this, we promise. ![]() |
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| metroschultz | Apr 7 2011, 12:02 AM Post #8 |
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Please just call me; "Schultz"
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![]() What she said |
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| key4202003 | Apr 29 2011, 09:29 PM Post #9 |
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Advanced Member
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heres an update. i cleaned all the grounds on the car to see if it would cure the problem, no. pulled the rear seat and noticed a black wire pulled out of the socket, no. took it to a mechanic, ran some tests, said it was the computer. yes. its fixed now and runs good. $190.00 i put new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, bosch O2 sensor, timing belt, pensoil syncromesh trans oil, 10w/40 engine oil. cleaned the EGR ports fully with deep creep oil using 10 guage wire, on a drill. dang good idea from this site. its on the road now. its got its querks that im still ironing out, but its a driver.
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| Woodie | Apr 30 2011, 05:38 AM Post #10 |
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Congratulations on your successes and sympathies for your ECM replacement. That's usually not the problem on a Metro, but sometimes it is. Sounds as if you're on the right track. Next time you change your oil, use 5W-30. 10W-40 is too thick, not a big deal that needs to be drained out, but you'd be better off with the thinner oil next time. |
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9:35 AM Jul 11