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| From high changing idle to low violent idle; idling troubles | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Apr 15 2011, 11:54 PM (893 Views) | |
| austineveringham | Apr 15 2011, 11:54 PM Post #1 |
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hey guys i have had my metro for about 8 months now. ever since i got it, it has run and started very well in all weather conditions. the only problem was my idle would start very high, drop down to normal, then jump back up again to way too high. this didnt effect how the geo ran, but i really wanted to fix it. i took it into a mechanic a couple weeks ago. he said a previous owner had gone in and unplugged something, and made the idle very high. when i got it back, everytime i started it, it was pretty shaky for about 10 minutes, and especially in the cold. It seemed to run better though. i just assumed he had the idle too low, so i took it back for him to make it idle higher. i got it back again, and the problem seemed worse. it actually died once when it was cold. i took it back to him a few days ago to get it higher, and when i started it this time it shook the dash violently, and refused to stop no matter how long i let it sit. when i pressed the clutch in, it was the worst. when i let off the clutch and gave it gas it nearly died, and it seemed hard to go from neutral to first gear. once i got it going, it seemed normal until i would go into neutral, then the violent shaking would start again. i am pretty worried about my geo, i love this car! anyone know whats going on or what i should do? thanks guys. |
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| Deleted User | Apr 16 2011, 01:23 AM Post #2 |
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Sounds like you have, or had a vacuum leak somewhere.That would have been easy enough to diagnose and fix. However, the mechanic seems to have made the problem worse, or created another problem. If you are able to have an amicable conversation with the mechanic who worked on your car, find out exactly what he did, and let us know. I think the best approach is to start by un-doing what the mechanic did, and start from where you were. Ask questions, and get him to show you what it was that was done. If he starts using technical terms that you don't understand, at least write them down. I'm sure others will chime in, eventually. |
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| austineveringham | Apr 16 2011, 11:00 AM Post #3 |
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Thanks for the info i found out some more about what exactly he "fixed" and also i had several others check for vaccum leaks before but we only checked by listening for the leak. didnt hear anything. here's what he did: performed diagnostics and found: IAC ports heavily coked,cleaned and re tested. Found; TPS out of range, readjusted base idle and reset TPS to proper voltage. Found ground terminal at ICM pulled out of connector, reinstalled terminal. Vehicle idles at factory spec. |
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| Bad Bent | Apr 16 2011, 12:14 PM Post #4 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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The IAC is; IAC Valve - Idle Air Control Valve (Idle Speed Control Solenoid Valve, ISC Solenoid Valve) ICM - Immobilizer Control Module So, since it is running bad you can start with checking the Check Engine Light codes. First... is the light on? Second, it may be burnt out so take a fuse and insert it in the raised slot on the fuse "box" above the driver's left knee under the dash. Click on: http://geometroforum.com/topic/638390/1/?x=50 I would look around the engine for loose, unplugged connections and vacuum hoses. Inspect it yourself. I'm sorry but I concur with Geo Glenn that the mechanic made it worse and in this case you need to do some work yourself. Do you have a video camera and either Photobucket or YouTube account? Tools? |
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| austineveringham | Apr 16 2011, 05:20 PM Post #5 |
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Okay i just fixed my AC. the switches were loose. I am wondering now if it could be the vacuum hoses? when i turn the car on, it idles rough. when i turn the AC on, the motor shakes Very violently! |
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| Bad Bent | Apr 17 2011, 12:04 AM Post #6 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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OK, this is easy, I believe it is 1/8" I.D. tubing but I'd drive to a parts place and pull a hose off, take it in and get maybe 5' of it. Replace one hose at a time according to the sticker that is on your hood. That way you know it's hooked up correctly. May want to replace the smaller I.D. hose of the EVAP canister (charcoal).
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Sounds like you have, or had a vacuum leak somewhere.
9:39 AM Jul 11