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| G10 pulled and disassembled | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Apr 17 2011, 09:06 AM (1,604 Views) | |
| elijah | Apr 24 2011, 07:09 AM Post #16 |
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Elite Member
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So yesterday got everything back together and engine installed. Started her up and was running great, took roughly 15 minutes til the lifters finally quieted down. Looking things over and find a freakin' oil leak at the outside of the exhaust side on the oil pump! New paper gasket that came in the kit(Apex), not sure why it leaked. Had to tear it back down, just the timing cover and belt, crank pulley and gear, and then on the oil pan I just removed the bolts from that side of the block along with the two studs that are on the corners. Didn't feel like removing the whole pan. Got the oil pump out and it's flat as can be as well as the block. I took the relief valve out and it looked fine and when I had it running before I tore it back down I removed the oil cap because I thought maybe there was excessive pressure but it made no difference. Not sure what happened or even why it leaked there. I can't get a gasket for 3 business days so I just bought a sheet of fel-pro gasket paper and used the old gasket as a template and cut another one out. This gasket paper is much thicker than the oil pump gasket that came in the set. I hope this fixes the issue. Should I use RTV sealant on this new gasket? |
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| snowfish | Apr 24 2011, 09:01 AM Post #17 |
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Basic GearHead
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Permatex Copper Spray would be best. A Thin coat of RTV would work too. Definately a good RTVing where the pan meets the pump. Edited by snowfish, Apr 24 2011, 09:04 AM.
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| elijah | Apr 26 2011, 07:51 AM Post #18 |
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Elite Member
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Everything up and running and got it out on it's first drive last night, could barely hear the engine running...awesome. Thanks to all the great folks on this board and the wealth of experience and knowledge. Full engine rebuild kit including pistons from parts dinosaur all standard size, had the valves and seats reground and new valve seals and the new pistons installed on the con rods, and new fluids for engine tranny and radiator, new clutch kit was all right under 500 bucks. Let's call it 500 bucks, just for a reference for anyone looking to do the same. |
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| elijah | May 4 2011, 08:11 AM Post #19 |
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Elite Member
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Just finished up my first tank since finishing the rebuild, 1/2 the tank was 3 month old gas. Averaged 50.2 mpg. I'm hoping to be up around 55 by the time the rings seat, etc. Feels great to have this XFI back on the road! On a side note, while rebuilding this one I drove my wifes 99 1.0/5. In that one I was in 3rd gear at 15 mph, 4th gear at 25, and 5th gear at 35. I tried using these same shift points on the XFI and it wasn't even close, it bogged. To be roughly around the same rpm I had to shift at 20/30/40. I didn't realize how much longer the gearing was in the XFI. |
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| Coche Blanco | May 4 2011, 08:28 AM Post #20 |
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Troll Certified
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Are you sure you aren't off a tooth in your timing? An XFi is supposed to be able to run 25mph in 5th. |
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| Horn | May 4 2011, 08:31 AM Post #21 |
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I wouldn't say 25mph in 5th........well maybe I can throw my 96 xfi clone into 5th at 30mph. I think at 25mph would be bit of a struggle though. |
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| Horn | May 4 2011, 08:32 AM Post #22 |
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and the gearing is way different. from a 4.39 to 3.79 is completely different. |
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| ponzy | May 4 2011, 08:40 AM Post #23 |
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wow, elijah, nice job.... you just did it in less than 2 weeks.... i may be doing this for the rest of 3 months, lol... |
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| elijah | May 4 2011, 09:08 AM Post #24 |
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Elite Member
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Very, very unlikely that I'm a tooth off, that's been double and triple checked when installed. Only thing I changed on the reinstall was bump the timing up to 9 degrees. Everything else is identical. No way I could shift into 25 mph in 5th. 35 is too low and 40 'feels' about right. |
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| Coche Blanco | May 4 2011, 10:01 AM Post #25 |
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Troll Certified
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Your "clone" has taller tires than a true XFi should have. |
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