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Diagnostic Codes; Code 12
Topic Started: Apr 21 2011, 04:23 PM (3,151 Views)
batsrule
New Member
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I get a code 12, but my check engine light continues to come on. Any ideas?? I have a 94 Metro, BIG loss of power, especialy when tryin to go uphill. Mpg is down from 38 to 30. Help please.
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Coche Blanco
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Could be (probably is) 21.
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batsrule
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I will check again, but the light was flashing 1 pause 2 longer pause 1 pause 2.
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Coche Blanco
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That's cool. But if your light is still on, it has to be 21.
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geogonfa
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check to see if the diagnostic fuse is plugged into place in the fuse box...shouldn't be...
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doug7x
Advanced Member
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if it IS a 12 code, if I remember right, that means everything is ok. My '99 is doing the same thing yours is, & I found the cat plugged... I guess plugged cat's don't always throw a code...I'm going to replace it this weekend. To find out for sure, pull your O2 sensor out of the exhaust manifold & drive it around the block...if it runs better, it's the cat. Got mine from partsgeek.com....was like 45.00 shipped. If you can't replace it right away, drill 3 or 4 3/8" holes on the inlet side of your old cat. (don't drill into the pipe if you're planning to re-use it, drill the cat itself) That will relieve enough back pressure to keep you going 'till you can replace it...NOTE....It WILL sound like hell.....GL
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

Welcome to your new forum, batsrule! :coffee

Well, my engine is a little different but the CEL came on if I cruised for too long at around 2,000 rpm. It could be the distributor cap. Mine was worn out and needed to be replaced. I had removed the cap and cleaned the posts/rotor maybe 3-4 times with a Dremel tool/wire wheel brush at low speed.
Poor electrical contact will weaken the spark and reduce combustion, in my case at least. New cap and rotor and we're laughin'. :D
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batsrule
New Member
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So here is what I tried today. I did take the o2 sensor out and took it for a ride, it ran the same.... like crap! On a hunch I also changed the cap and rotor.... same story ran like crap! Unless I'm goin down a hill I cannot go faster than 55mph, and that's holding it to the floor. If I am going uphill FORGET IT!! 55 to 25 in 5 seconds, no matter what I do. I have been trying to fix this problem for about a month. I am trying my best to do it myself. BTW the o2 sensor is new, AC Delco plugs new,wires new,car/rotor borg warner new,the problem however is getting OLD!
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GeoRating
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Um, that sounds bad :( Did you pop a vacuum hose somewhere? I'm not familiar with the codes for 95 and previous models, but you should definitely grab a compression tester and test your compression. You obviously lost a ton of the little horsepower you had if you're dropping from a max speed of 55 to 25 in seconds on a hill :P Has the car been running a strange idle or much higher RPMs since the problem started?

Your description doesn't sound like clutch/transmission problems, but it might be worth checking out the clutch/clutch cable.

Is your loss of power immediate from the moment you try to start from a stop or does it seem fine until you're at a certain speed?

How is the oil level? If it is an automatic transmission, how is the ATF level? If it's an auto, perhaps the pressure plate has slipped (Oddly enough it happens, and happened on my GFs pontiac) and although it is still driveable, the pontiac felt like a semi truck when driving it. (I'm not 100% this was a pressure plate issue, but that's what the mechanic told her when he fixed it.)

Um... a silly question if you've been trying to fix this for a month, but have you checked your timing belt? Could have slipped a tooth and boom your cleanly running geo turns into a car that feels like you're driving it out of a junkyard to repair :)
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

:gp

A month... wow. If Coche Blanco is close then click on http://geometroforum.com/topic/1341780/1/

Besides the recommended compression test (How To Do A Compression test.) I'll ask what happened a month ago?

What was done to the engine before this started?

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Jittney
Anchorage 92 XFi

You describe a code 12, which is means all is OK.
+ 1 to geogonfa's comment that the 15amp fuse should not be plugged in all the time.
Other members have picked up a metro for cheap, because the previous owner left the fuse in and thought the code 12 meant something was wrong, when it was really all OK.
However, in your case, it sounds like there really is something wrong.
Bad Bent's suggestion to recall what things were done a month ago is a good starting point, if that was the start of the problem.
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batsrule
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I double cecked the oil,trans fluid levels yesterday, all good.It is an automatic. It falls on it's face whether I'm at a stop, or trying to speed up.When I try to hold a steady speed 20-25mph it feels like it's surging/misfiring.The problem started out when it shut off on me in a parking lot,and would not restart. I waited about 20 min and it started up and ran fine,did that a couple of times since then. I bought this car in '09,and have replaced the timing belt,water pump,fuel filter,cap/rotor/plugs wres,changed oil/trans fluid/filter,rad cap.
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Memphis metro


Check your fuel pressure. You could have a fuel pump going out or a restricted fuel filter. How long ago was it you replaced the fuel filter? You might also check your catalytic convertor for restrictions.
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batsrule
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Here is what I have so far. I did a fuel pressure test, only 15psi? Thinkin it's the fuel pump. also did a compression test, #1 170 #2 170 #3 165. Does that sound ok? Now my next question, while I was checkin the comp codes my door chime and my radio(aftermarket not inst by me) quit workin. I don't get it. Is there a fuse for that? I do not have an owners manuel, so I wouldn't no where to find it. Is it true that these engines do not run very well on heavier oil than 5w30? Thanks to all for your help and patience so far.
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GeoRating
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Was that 15 psi at idle? It is a little low, normal is 20+ I think? (Not 100% on that one, someone else hit in with some scientific numbers here :P)

It should be significantly higher at rev, like upwards of 40. If you test it and rev it as much as you can, if it isn't increasing that is definitely at least one of your problems.

Your compressions are fine, I'm assuming those are dry numbers, which would probably put you 190ish wet :) She should be running WAY better than she is.

Yes there is a fuse for the radio (probably a separate fuse for constant power and accessory power); however, I am not aware if the chime is on the same fuse. The fuse would definitely be in the fuse box under the far left side of the dash on the driver's side.

These engines do run better on 5w30, 5w20 or even the 0w30, but unless you are running some pretty thick stuff this could not be the cause of so bad of a problem. I'm running 10w40 synthetic Castrol in mine atm, soon to be changed for 5w30 Mobil 1. I top out a bit earlier on power I think than other cars, but my compression is lower than yours (required rebuild this summer) and my transmission/clutch are getting pretty rattly, so that could be the main problem :)
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