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Burnt Exhaust Valve(s); Rings bad as well?
Topic Started: Apr 22 2011, 10:23 AM (6,902 Views)
rmorman
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Dangerously un-informed
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Currently Sitting in the truck at machine shop waiting for wrist pins to get pressed. Surfing forum for oil pump install thread on my phone. Not really easy.
Can somebody show me a link on how to do this?

Also, I assume not removing engine means not replacing rear main seal?

That oil check valve under the head does not come out if you leave the block in does it?

Does the coolant in the jackets around the cyl walls need to be drained? Is that plug under the block how you do it? Tried to loosen it last night, too tight!

Lots of pictures to come!
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mcmancuso
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Just pull the lower radiator hose to drain the coolant. The oil pump is easy to do, just half a dozen small bolts on the front, and it pulls off over the crank.
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rmorman
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I drained the radiator. I assume then that removing the lower radiator hose will empty the jackets that circle the Cyl walls?

I'm not pulling the crank beings the motor is still in the car. Does that mean that the thrust washers do not get changed?
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work car
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obsessed!!

anyone know where to get the 3" ball hone cheaper than 53.99 at advance????
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mcmancuso
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I got mine on amazon(I think) for $23
I believe you can slide the thrust washer around and out if you take off the corresponding bearing cap.
I'm not 100% on getting all the coolant out of the water jackets, last time I needed to do that on a car it wasn't the metro, and I used a bunch of paper towels.
Edited by mcmancuso, May 9 2011, 11:31 PM.
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rmorman
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ITS ALIVE! ITS ALIVE!
Seems all is well. Been idling for 30-45 min to get timing/coolant/idle right. My electric fan is coming on and cycling like normal, but my temp gauge is dead. If I pull the plug at the sending unit, the fan also comes on. Does this mean the sending unit is good? As a note, the temp gauge was dead prior to this operation. How do I go about deciding if it is sending unit/wiring/gauge?

Thanks...
Hope to get pictures uploaded today. I took lots!
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rmorman
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Nevermind on the Temp sensor..... As usual, the problem lies between the steering wheel and the seat. I found this: http://geometroforum.com/topic/3791421/1/#new And now I'm goo to go. Loose wire.
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mcmancuso
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The sending unit for the fan is different than the sending unit for the gauge, the gauge uses a 1 wire sender, I'm not sure where it is on the '95, on my '92 its right beside the 2 wire fan switch, but yours may be on the passenger side of the intake.
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mcmancuso
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:thumb good work
Edited by mcmancuso, May 10 2011, 12:55 PM.
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rmorman
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Guys, I can't believe I waited this long to do this..... That car must have been pretty sick when I bought it 2 yrs ago. I have lots more power and hopefully will stop burning a quart of oil every 140 miles. I can only imagine my milage going up a lot. The only thinh I didn't get was the +6 sproket. Maybe later. I'll do a followup compression test in a week or so. However, it sure feels good! ^o)

I'd like to thank mcmancuso, 90metro, bogs, Coche Blanco, dayle1960, snowfish, bennie442, work car, partsdinosaur, Advance auto and O'reilly's for all the help! As promised, here are the pictures. I don't think I'll be adding anything new, but maybe somebody will see something that will help them.

Here are a smattering of the posts that were very helpful in my rebuild:

http://geometroforum.com/topic/638797/1/ (Rebuild Head)

http://geometroforum.com/topic/1299263/1/ (Rebuild Head, detailed)

http://geometroforum.com/topic/3937058/1/ (Rebuilding Lifters)

http://geometroforum.com/topic/2232748/1/?x=0#post166330 (Timing Belt Replacement)

http://geometroforum.com/topic/2539369/1/ (pulling the engine)

http://geometroforum.com/topic/2335235/1/ (bottom End Rebuild)

Started this project on Saturday at noon and was finished bt Tuesday at noon. I hind sight, I might have removed the motor if I were to do this again. However, if you don't have a cherry picker AND your main bearings are good, you should be fine.

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Started with a couple reference photos in case I forgot where stuff went. Turned out to be REALLY helpful!

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Got he valve cover off and the timing belt/pullies have been removed
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Those intake bolts are a bit of a bugger. Had to do a bit more disassembly than what I figured
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The intake pulls back just far enough to remove the head.
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As a note, luckily I read somewhere about this 3rd bolt on the distributor housing. Be sure you remove it or you will break it trying to remove the housing!
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Here is what greeted me when I popped the head off!
How was this thing even running? :dunno
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Cyl 1:
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Cyl 2 was easily the best one of the three:
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Cyl 3:
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Here is a look at the pistons:
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Getting ready to dissassemble the head:
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I decided to rebuild the lifters as well. I remember reading something about "should be some spring" in them. Mine had NONE. This took a while, but was MORE than worth it. Just used parts cleaner, scotch bright and a Q-Tip:
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I labeled the lifters as I took them out. Also, I used labeled sandwich bags to keep each set of springs, keepers and lifters together):
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After the rebuild, I let them soak in oil for about 15-20 hours:
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Picture of the valves from Cyl 1: :holycrap
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Cyl 2:
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Cyl 3:
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Ready to start cleaning this thing up!
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To pull the old valve seals out, I used some good long needle nose pliers. Tried a hook tool, but this was much quicker:
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Although my EGR port was not all that dirty, I decided to get the old cable port cleaning tool out and give it a scrub. I also used it on the exhaust ports a bit:
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Time to wash off the gunk. I don't have a parts cleaner, but I do have a 278 deg Hotsy!
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Much cleaner now:
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Time to lap the valves. I did 5 min/valve. I just set the timer on my Droid I had never done this before. Was a bit nervous:
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Before lapping:
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After Lapping (notice the shiny bits!):
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Starting to reassemble:
Don't forget to put the pieces back under BEFORE you install the new valve seals..... I speak from experience! :smackface
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Installing the valve seals. I couldn't pust down hard enough with my thumb to seat them. Thought I'd use a hammer and one of the old valves.... Bad idea. Even a light tap squished the little dounut spring just a bit. Did that on 2 seals befor I noticed.
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Ended up using a Q-tip to put a dab of oil on the inside of them. Then they seemed to slide on better:
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Putting in the valve keepers. I got a valve spring compressor from O'reilly's "loaner tool" program, but couldn't make it work in the metro head. To remove the keepers, I used a deep well socket and a hammer. To get them back on I used a long 1/2 drive ratchet extension and a deep well socket. Worked very vell. I just put a rag under the head so the valves couldn't move, set the keepers in and pressed down on the extension. With a bit of shaking they all went in.
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First set of valves in:
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All the keepers and valves in:
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Lifters in. After initial fire, these things made a racket for a bit before they setled in. I soaked them overnight, but maybe that was not enough? :dunno
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Starting on the bottom end:
Looks like a bit of debris on the oil pickup tube screen. However, there were no parts in the oil pan:
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Here are the old pistons. I labeled EVERY part and put them back together exactly as they came apart. The bearings looked ok, but I had new ones so I put them in anyway.
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More to Come.....
Edited by rmorman, May 11 2011, 05:05 PM.
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rmorman
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Here is the rest:

In 45 min, the machine shop had the new pistons installed:
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New rings installed. Was very easy to do with the diagram in the forum. Bought a ring installer from Advance Auto for around $5.00
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Part of the reason I think I'd rather pull the motor next time was putting in the new water pump and oil pump. Had to remove many brackets including the A/C bracket seen here:
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New oil pump and water pump installed. By the way, I used the copper gasket spray mcmancuso recommended and have no leaks as of yet.........
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Engine assembley lube on ALL metal to metal and motor oil on all metal to rubber connections:
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Installing pistons. Using a "loaner tool" from O'reilly's. Very eay to do. Pistons and connecting rod caps are labeled as to how they go in. Just be sure you have the oil ports matched up on the bearings.
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My rebuild kit came with a head gasket, but upon recommendation I bought a Felpro one from Advance Auto. However, I carefully looked at the oil ports mentioned in this forum and could not tell a difference so I took the Felpro one back. I had earlier been worried about the antifreeze in the jackets surrounding the cly walls, however, when I removed the water pump, it drained out.
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Head back on:
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Looking like an engine again:
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I always wondered why this timing belt cover hole didn't have a bold. Now I know. Mine would have rubbed on the belt:
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If you took out the motor mount bolt to gel at the crank pully, DON'T FORGET TO PUT IT BACK IN:
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Up and running:
Smoked a bit when it fired up. Lifters made some noise as well. However, I let it run for 45 minutes adding antifreeze as I went. I used this time to set timing to 10 deg and idle at about 850RPM. I realize after burning my hand on the valve cover several times, I REALLY prefer setting the idle on my 350 Chevy much more.
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All Done!
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Thanks again for all your help!
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rmorman
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One question.... Idle is really smooth without the connector hooked up to the back of the air cleaner. With it connected, the idle varies up and down just a bit. Is there a bad sensor or something here????

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dayle1960
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Fastest Hampster EVER

rmorman, that was one of the best pictorials I have ever witnessed on GMF, especially the valve lapping, and pics of the burned valves. This should help newbies when they are sitting around and scratching their heads wondering how to lap a valve. Thanks for the pics.
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bogs
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Duct tape heals all wounds

Very well done :thumb
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mcmancuso
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Sorry to hear about the felpro being bad :( the last 2 I got from them were right... felpro must be getting their gaskets from multiple factories, at least one of which is making the wrong ones :smackface
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