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| Engine dying - possible fuel starvation; engine dies | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Apr 24 2011, 01:10 AM (1,597 Views) | |
| mehisdave | Apr 24 2011, 01:10 AM Post #1 |
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Fresh Fish
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I have a 1991 metro automatic. The engine begins to die after about 30 mins of driving. The following symptoms increase in frequency & the time interval shortens between occurances: 1. When accelerating from a stop signal the engine dies 2. When driving occasionally the engine dies when driving. 3. When shifting into neutral & trying to rev to keep it from dying it dies 4. Sometimes by quickly & repeatedly tapping the gas peddle it may or not continue to run. 5. The instrument lights come on (oil, battery, check engine) 6. The check engine light is intermittent. 7. There seems to be a fuel odor. (I recently had a fuel container tip over & spill gas in the trunk area but I opened the hatch door overnight & 1/2 a day to let it evaporate but in just checking it now the odor is strong) 8. If the car sets for several hours or overnight it runs fine for approx. 30 +/- minutes & the problem reoccurs. After it dies, if i sit for 2-3-4 minutes( it varies) it will start but I have to pump the peddle. It reoccurs at the next intersection. The fuel level in the tank makes no difference. Initially, i found if i opened the gas cap & released the pressure (usually significant) I found it restarted quicker & then it seemed to run OK for a while but then it re-occurs & continues as before. I have changed the fuel filter. I have not run a pressure check on the fuel pump, (perhaps mistakenly thinking it would not operate intermittently with above symptoms) A Haynes manual says if fuel is steady its not the pump. I pulled the fuel line on the throttle body f.i. & it was steady. It is becoming hazardous & a nuisance to those behind me. Any ideas? |
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| GeoRating | Apr 24 2011, 01:53 AM Post #2 |
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Although you say you doubt it, this really sounds like a fuel/pump issue... how are the other parts of the system (injection sprayer, gas hoses, fuel filter if equipped)? Almost sounds like a clog in the tube somewhere, fuel pump can work by it but rapid requirements or long term use are tiring out the pump. The fuel being steady also doesn't mean your fuel pump is fine. It could be intermittent as many fuel pumps are before they totally crap out... BTW! Welcome to the forum :)!
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| GeoRating | Apr 24 2011, 02:14 AM Post #3 |
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Another thing to check is the fuel pump wiring/connections. |
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| chubart | Apr 24 2011, 06:51 AM Post #4 |
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| dayle1960 | Apr 24 2011, 11:29 AM Post #5 |
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Fastest Hampster EVER
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mehisdave, have you done any work on the engine lately? Within the past three weeks or so? It sounds like if you have you might not have connected a negative wire somewhere. try pulling all negative wires within the engine bay and hit them with some sandpaper. I'm not saying this is the "definite" cause of your problems, but it is a lot cheaper to do the easy things first instead of pulling parts and replacing them. Start small and then go large. Start cheap and then go expensive. But you must start first. So get off the couch and hit the negative wires, and while you are at it clean the battery terminals. If the problems start after 30 minutes of driving then isn't it fair to think that the wires might be wiggling loose and losing contact? I could be wrong, but that is where I would start. Have a good day. |
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| Memphis metro | Apr 24 2011, 11:33 AM Post #6 |
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You need to get that check engine code when its on. Check fuel pressure with a gauge and replace the fuel filter if you have not. |
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| Jittney | Apr 24 2011, 12:25 PM Post #7 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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Welcome to the forum, mehisdave ![]() Checking the ground contacts in the engine bay is a good idea. Another thought is the hoses around the TB. You didn't mention replacing them. It's about $10 to replace the hoses. If one is cracked it will affect the fuel/air mixture. The most common bad hose is the one from the base of the TB over past the white 'flying saucer' to the black MAP sensor on the firewall. There should be a diagram on the bottom side of your hood to show the hoses. |
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| mwebb | Apr 24 2011, 10:46 PM Post #8 |
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FOG
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TEST , DO NOT GUESS . are you loosing spark ? or fuel ? bring a can of starter fluid , when the engine stalls , remove upper air filter cover and give a squirt of starter fluid then start the engine - if the engine starts and then stalls as the ether runs out , you are having a no fuel related issue if the engine will not start at all on the starter fluid, you have a no spark related issue by this simple test you will have divided the potential problem by 2 test and report back with results BUY a DVOM , buy a VACUUM gauge . ready , begin. ======================= also, back at the ranch ... in the darkness , engine idleing when it is dark with the absence of light . you can soak the distributor cap and ign wires and ignition coil with sprayed soapy water out of a spray bottle , start at the wires near the spark plugs and slowly work your way toward the distributor cap then the coil . if you can see any sparks or arcing replace the part that is sparking or arcing .... if the engine stalls and will not re start , soak the wet parts with wd40 or something like it , so you can drive to buy the replacement parts buy them at a local independent parts store NOT auto junk or UNadvanced auto Edited by mwebb, Apr 24 2011, 10:52 PM.
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