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| 1991 Metro acting funky | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Apr 28 2011, 07:02 PM (2,001 Views) | |
| Dolphin | Apr 28 2011, 07:02 PM Post #1 |
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New Member
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I recently (2 months ago) rebuilt the engine on my Metro (fully rebuilt head, new rings) and the car has recently been losing power sometimes and the check engine light comes on (oxygen sensor circuit). I decided to do a compression test and I'm getting 148, 148, 148 dry and 175, 175, 175 wet. These numbers surprised me since I just rebuilt the darned thing. The spark plugs have white deposits on them (fuel starvation?), and lastly the temperature gauge has stopped working for some reason. The car runs normally 3/4 of the time, but sometimes it overtly loses power. I didn't change the timing belt when I rebuilt the engine, could a stretched out timing belt give me low compression numbers? One of the battery leads is kinda busted, so is a little loose...could that be causing these kind of issues? |
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| Dolphin | Apr 28 2011, 07:16 PM Post #2 |
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I should also embarrassingly mention that when I rebuilt the engine I had to remove the head once after torquing the head bolts because I forgot to put the head guides in, and since I didn't have enough money I couldn't purchase new head bolts and gasket. If the head gasket was blown though, I wouldn't get equal compression readings on all cylinders right? |
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| Johnny Mullet | Apr 28 2011, 08:50 PM Post #3 |
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Fear the Mullet
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It can take up to 2500 miles for the engine to fully break in. What is the exact check engine code? A bad upstream can make it run lean. Address the check engine light first. Is the cat plugged? What year is the car? If it's a 96+ model, I hope you do not have an oil pan gasket on it. |
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| Dolphin | Apr 28 2011, 10:11 PM Post #4 |
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It's a 1991, standard 3 cyl 1 liter, manual transmission. The engine code is 1 flash followed by 3 flashes, which the book says is the oxygen sensor circuit. I've been thinking about the catalytic converter actually, because when I press harder on the gas I get very little extra acceleration (but this is the first Metro I've owned, so I don't know if it's just the low powered engine or not), and also this problem seems to get worse when the engine gets hotter. What is the best way to test the catalytic converter? Can I just remove the oxygen sensor temporarily and see if power improves? Also, I haven't replaced the oxygen sensor since I replaced the exhaust valves (which were cute little triangles before, 30 psi of compression per cylinder before the rebuild) so maybe the oxygen sensor is bad? Could a bad oxygen sensor cause the engine to run lean? |
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| Memphis metro | Apr 28 2011, 10:13 PM Post #5 |
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Did you have it WOT when you done the compression test? Check to see if your temp sensor wire has come off your sensor. |
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| Dolphin | Apr 28 2011, 10:21 PM Post #6 |
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Yeah, I initially made the mistake of having the throttle closed while doing the compression test, and it jumped 30 PSI when I tested it wide open. It's too dark out now to check the temp sensor wire, but that's definitely possible. |
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| SkyAir | Apr 29 2011, 07:31 PM Post #7 |
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How's it coming along? I've just picked up new rings and gasket set & random bit & peices for the weekend project & will be following your troubleshooting. Did you hone? Did you debate honing or was it a no brainer? I have discovered that honing may be a messy process and that detracts me from doing mine. I also wonder if this is even necessary- my walls are very clean. Keep us posted, I may learn something worth avoiding. I have no clue if my cat is plugged and have no clue if I had codes in the ECU before tear-down. It ran pretty smooth with very sporadic & intermittent overheating (very long term) until it finally blew white smoke and ran like crapola... I figure the rebuild/replace as much as possible within reasonable expenses route will be adequete. I'm not rich, I drive a Metro! |
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| Dolphin | May 12 2011, 02:45 PM Post #8 |
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So far nothing. I haven't had time to really troubleshoot the problem but it's been getting worse. In terms of honing, I don't really hone unless I find something wrong with the cylinder, in my case there was some vertical abrasion on the cylinder (which was causing oil to burn) so I honed it. I'm going to be checking the cat today, and hope that that's my problem. On top of the other symptoms, the car acts up more when the fuel tank gets low...so I'm checking the fuel pressure today as well. Edited by Dolphin, May 12 2011, 02:48 PM.
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| Old Man | May 12 2011, 02:55 PM Post #9 |
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| dayle1960 | May 12 2011, 02:56 PM Post #10 |
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Fastest Hampster EVER
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O2 sensor on a 91 is about twenty bucks Replace it and save yourself from more headaches. Plugged cat equals big money. If the cell is throwing a code then start with the cheapest and easyist fix. Edited by dayle1960, May 14 2011, 01:23 PM.
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| Deleted User | May 12 2011, 04:16 PM Post #11 |
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Deleted User
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I recently overhauled the Mighty Metro - 1990 1007cc, formerly 993cc. Initially, I set the base ignition timing to 8 degrees. I had to remove the distributor for a seal issue, so reset the base ignition timing to 12 degrees. I got code 13 and code 41. ECM did not like 12 degrees. Reset base ignition timing to 10 degrees. Code 41 goes away, code 13 remains. ECM did not like 10 degrees. Reset base ignition timing to 8 degrees, just like it had been for the last 1800 miles. No codes. I have a vacuum advance distributor, standard camshaft, and 2 degree cam gear advance. No other tricks or mods. I also have very white spark plugs. I have not checked the compression. The engine still complains about high RPM power settings, from time to time. My theory is that so much heat is created from friction in the cylinder, that the fuel mixture leans out to the point the engine won't run. Back off on the RPM's and life is good. For what it's worth . . . GG
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| geodad | May 13 2011, 03:52 PM Post #12 |
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DIY Mechanic
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Can't help much with the compression issue, but I can tell you that the broken battery leads will cause you problems with your charging system. Without a solid connection on the terminal your alternator will not be able to charge properly and you will be running off the battery alone and eventually loose all power, but not intermitant. I recently had this trouble and the loose terminal was the problem. Hope this was of some help. |
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| Spock | May 14 2011, 09:30 AM Post #13 |
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Live Long and Prosper.
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I really doubt it. Unless I am mistaken, the ECU will recognize that the 02 sensor has failed and not allow the engine to run lean and compensate by using a richer map. 02 feedback is not the only thing that governs injector duration. Like others have said, replace your 20 dollar 02 sensor and move forward with your diagnostics. TTY head bolts don't like to be re-torqued. This sounds like a good place to give some attention to. |
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| Dolphin | May 16 2011, 06:01 PM Post #14 |
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New Member
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I learned 2 things today. 1. Geo Metros will get up to 70 miles per hour running on 2 cylinders. 2. When diagnosing problems with a car, MAKE SURE you check the spark plugs and wires first. I think I'll still need new head bolts, but it runs fine anyway. |
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| Dolphin | May 18 2011, 03:05 PM Post #15 |
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Okay, nevermind, running well was a fluke, I'm back to the same problem and all 3 cylinders are plugged in. I just checked the engine codes again and I got 2 flashes then 3 flashes, and 1 flash then 3 flashes like before. The book says 2 flashes then 3 is IAT/MAT sensor circuit, and as before 1 then 3 is oxygen sensor. What the best way to proceed without buying both parts? |
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