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98 LSI question
Topic Started: May 4 2011, 02:52 PM (2,251 Views)
resko1
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New here so bear with me but im not new to forums.
I have a 98 Metro LSi 1.3L 4 cyl that i use for my sound competition vehicle. While heading to a show last weekend the car temp gauge was maxed out and when i stopped it blew a 5" crack in the radiator. I replaced the radiator and faulty thermostat with a failsafe. Figured my head was good since there was no leakage. Drove to work, and today i checked on it. There was a 12"x12" puddle under the vehicle and i could see coolant drops on the lip of the oil pan. Checked coolant levels and they were low. Started the car and seen an almost steady stream of coolant from the rear bottom of the head. Thought i had got lucky but i guess not.

So... Question is. Would it be more cost efficient and easier to change the head and gaskets or drop in a whole new motor. I can get a salvaged 1.3L with 78,000 mi on it for 300 from a local junkyard.

Second question. How hard is it to swap out a motor and whats all involved? Maybe someone can shoot me pointers who has done this before.
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Coche Blanco
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I'd drop in a new motor, if it had less miles and good compression.
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Deleted User
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Depends if you're doing it yourself, or paying to have it done, and when you want it.

Engine swap would not be too hard, so to speak, with the proper tools and equipment. An easy day for a couple of guys who know what they're doing.

Good luck!
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

Welcome to your new forum, resko1! :coffee

What they said.

Here are some links on swapping and rebuilding:
Rebuild top and bottom and there are a lot more, with details and pictures.
How to pull a G10.
How To Compression Test


I pulled and installed my engines with a c-clamp, climbing rope and friend.

Posted Image Posted Image <- Hacksaw
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resko1
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Thanks guys. I have a cherry picker to pull it. I would be doing it myself. The way the coolant was literally "streaming" from the back side of the head i would rather just swap it. Then rebuild this one completely over time so i have a fresh engine. Just not familiar with the metro engines and what all entails swapping it. My car has 138,000mi on it. The engine i would be getting has 78k on it and is in pristine condition. No leaks and not even the puff of smoke when you first start it after sitting overnight. Anything i should do BEFORE i put the new engine in? Someone told me new timing belt, water pump, and thermostat.
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resko1
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Also, how hard would it be to convert my automatic in to a standard? Or is this highly improbable?
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bogs
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Duct tape heals all wounds

There are a few that have done the swap from auto to standard, and many who have contemplated it. The main consensus is to have a standard trans part car sitting there to catch all the bits and pieces, although if you have one you might as well just swap engines as its more straight forward.
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resko1
May 5 2011, 12:39 AM
Thanks guys. I have a cherry picker to pull it. I would be doing it myself. The way the coolant was literally "streaming" from the back side of the head i would rather just swap it. Then rebuild this one completely over time so i have a fresh engine. Just not familiar with the metro engines and what all entails swapping it. My car has 138,000mi on it. The engine i would be getting has 78k on it and is in pristine condition. No leaks and not even the puff of smoke when you first start it after sitting overnight. Anything i should do BEFORE i put the new engine in? Someone told me new timing belt, water pump, and thermostat.
Timing belt, water pump, and thermostat wouldn't be unreasonable, especially on a 4 cylinder. The front end is more difficult to access without lowering the engine.

It will be a tight removal, just taking out the engine. Remove the hood. The engine and transmission will come out more easily as a unit.

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resko1
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Mine is automatic. But the car the new engine is coming out of is a manual trans. Thats why i contemplated swapping transmissions too. I just dont want to go through the hassle of having to rig it to fit. Does anyone know if it will bolt up in the same location as the auto? I know i would have to redo the shifter and cables going to it.

Also you recommend pulling the trans at the same time as the engine? i read the tutorial on how to pull a g10 but that appears to be an older version and mine is different. I do have the 98 Chevy version and the motor thats coming is from a 2000 chevy. Any tutorials on how to pull the trans too?

It would be nice to just pull the whole thing, engine and trans, and swap it out with the new one with manual trans. ANyone done the auto to manual swap on here?
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resko1
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Also if anyone would like to give me a few pointers or someone i can contact for assistance my number is 920-917-0017 and my names Travis.
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resko1
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So i just purchased a 94 metro 4 door yesterday. In hopes to use the engine but this is the g10 3 cyl engine. I was told this will not work in the 98 LSI i have. Any opinions?
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

The G10 block should bolt up directly to the transmission, swapping over the flywheels and parts, the problem is going to be the '98 manifolds and sensor connections plus I don't know if it is direct injection? :dunno

What is wrong with the '94 4 door? If you can drive it you can rebuild the '98 in your spare time.

:bump
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resko1
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Bad Bent
May 8 2011, 08:27 PM
The G10 block should bolt up directly to the transmission, swapping over the flywheels and parts, the problem is going to be the '98 manifolds and sensor connections plus I don't know if it is direct injection? :dunno

What is wrong with the '94 4 door? If you can drive it you can rebuild the '98 in your spare time.

:bump

The 98 is direct injection, the 94 is carb.
The 94 i have runs well. Only has 118k mi on it. But there's an issue with the brakes. they were changed numerous times by the previous owner. Currently it has NO brakes. I had to beat the front drivers side caliper loose and use the e-brake to get it home. There was no brake fluid in it what so ever indicating a probable leak in a brake line somewhere. And the body has some pretty bad rust spots. One on the passanger side rear door, one on the drivers side front quarter above the wheel well and drivers front door. Frame is excellent. The 98 has excellent frame and minimal rust below the doors on the skirts.
I can only keep one of them. I have too many vehicles as it is. I bought this one figuring its the better deal. used engine at the junkyard was 300 for the 4cyl and this whole car was 200. I may just keep the 94 and redo the whole brake system, then sell or junk the 98.
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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

The only engine that will work is a 1998-2001 4cyl engine.
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Coche Blanco
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None of these cars have direct injection.
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