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| 1993 metro trouble; stalls and won't idle | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: May 15 2011, 10:03 AM (1,307 Views) | |
| farrowg | May 15 2011, 10:03 AM Post #1 |
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Fresh Fish
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i have a 1993 geo metro 5 sp with a 1.0 liter engine.had it about a year loved it till recently.it allways did not idle very well so a mechanic set the idle up.i think he changed the timing to increase idle speed.the very next morning it tries to stall at higher rpm you can go to a higher gear and it helps a little.seems to do this more when weather is hot.had it to 2 mechanics they can't figure it out.changed fuel filter first thougt it might be clogged,didn't help.had the fuel pump checked supposed to be 23&30 was 25.showed on computer 1 code mechanic said it was air temp sensor on breather.reset and it has't come on again.help please |
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| Memphis metro | May 15 2011, 10:49 AM Post #2 |
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Welcome to the forum. Do or have done a engine compression test. |
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| farrowg | May 15 2011, 12:14 PM Post #3 |
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Fresh Fish
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no i haven't done a compression test i didn't really think it was engine trouble i was thinking sensor trouble or something minor.what are u thinking? |
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| Memphis metro | May 15 2011, 12:49 PM Post #4 |
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You said it has always idled rough and that is a classic sign of burned valves in this engine, especially if you have high miles and not done any engine work to it. Set the timing where it belongs and leave it there. Put the idle screw where it belongs and leave it there. Is the check engine light on? This will benefit you here, http://geometroforum.com/topic/638390/1/#new |
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| farrowg | May 15 2011, 05:41 PM Post #5 |
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Fresh Fish
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check engine light is not on |
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| BGairforce | May 15 2011, 06:06 PM Post #6 |
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BGAirForce
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The 3 cly does not idle smooth, period. If the mechanic advanced the timing to smooth out the idle, your engine could cut out at the higher RPM. Get the timing checked with a light. Otherwise you could lead to engine damage. The 1.0s run rough due to the engine is not as balanced as a 4cyl. if you have a timing light, just check it out. If you do not own the light you can pick them up fairly cheap at an auto parts house. what does your tach show at idle? if it is above 800 then you need to retard the timing back. Hope that helps some |
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| Memphis metro | May 15 2011, 06:38 PM Post #7 |
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Does it work? Turn the switch on but do not start it and see if it lights up for a couple of seconds and goes out. If not the bulb may be blown. |
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| sixtharmy | May 15 2011, 07:11 PM Post #8 |
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Search this site or on teamswift for idle speed control (ISC) this is a small ( ~ roll of quarters sized) solenoid valve below the air cleaner bolted to the back (firewall) side of the throttle body. It has a couple of vacuum lines coming out sideways from its top and a plug-in wire connector at its base. The computer pulses the solenoid, thus opening and closing the vaccum line and bleeding air to the mixture as needed to maintain idle. When it starts to fail the engine will idle rough. It usually fails when a strange looking little flat metal spring inside breaks. I think this leaves the vacuum line open to atmosphere, so the fuel mix goes very lean and the car won't idle or even run. If you can find them new they run a couple of hundred $ from a dealer or Rock Auto. You can easily find one on a wrecked 89-93 for very little (different control set-up before 89 and after 93). BE SURE TO SEARCH the other posts. They'll tell you how to test the one you have as well as any used replacement you might find. The teamswift posts have good pictures to ID the valve by and I think I remember that they include the troubleshooting flow charts. As a quick check I seem to remember that if you use pliers to pinch closed the vaccum line that runs from the ISC to the throttle body, and the idle evens out, then the ISC is bad. Good Luck Grasshopper. |
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7:59 PM Jul 10