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| monster turbo3 build | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jun 17 2011, 05:53 AM (36,540 Views) | |
| t3ragtop | Sep 19 2011, 05:48 PM Post #181 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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watch video #8 and pay attention this time. you can buy the lower bracket and adapter pigtail from the web page i show and i tell you the url. i also give you my source for the remanufactured cs130 and show you the web page with the ebay auction listing. the modification, straight up with shipping, costs less than a stock replacement alternator from auto zone and gives you about twice the electrical current. the only thing easier would be if i bought you the parts and came over to your house and bolted them on for you.
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| Bigshane90 | Sep 19 2011, 07:16 PM Post #182 |
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How do u know if u need the kit with the belt and pulley. Or the kit without? I was also wondering how much room you had when puting the cs130 in. If alot, then there's company's out there that make aftermarket HO alternators for that generation chevy/gmc |
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| t3ragtop | Sep 20 2011, 01:12 AM Post #183 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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i didn't use the kit with the alternator, belt and pulley. it was cheaper to source my own alternator and use the pulley from the denso/ bosch alternator. the delco-remy cs130 alternator isn't a whole lot bigger than the oem alternator but i wouldn't say that there was a "lot" of room to spare. in my application with the turbo3 intake manifold in the way, squeezing the alternator through the space was a job that required me to hold my mouth just right.
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| Bigshane90 | Sep 20 2011, 01:36 AM Post #184 |
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Haha. That's kinda funny. I appreciate the tips and I will now be upgrading mine in the near future. Hope the extra amperage helps me out. |
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| t3ragtop | Sep 22 2011, 06:44 PM Post #185 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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my stainless steel head studs arrived. stainless 17-4 alloy, 185,000 pound tensile strength and won't grow rust balls.
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| t3ragtop | Sep 25 2011, 10:31 PM Post #186 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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i spent most of the day reworking my megasquirt for full sequential operation. woohoo! the circuit board has a butt load of spaghetti wiring on it now. i was adamant that i was not going to bolt the distributor back on as a cam angle sensor and i devised a slicker deal using a very small hall effect sensor and a teeny weeny magnet embedded in the cam gear. i still have to make another wiring harness for the injectors and ignitors, machine the cam gear and expoxy the magnet in, and rework the megasquirt harness (3 wires) for the hall effect device. another 4 or 5 hours and i'll be ready to start the engine again with a new base tune. sequential injection should help me take care of the idle problem i had with too much fuel. my injectors are just on the edge of being too large to be able to control with batch fire operation. even with very short duration squirts, my afr at idle was in the 10.5 range and i want to shoot for something closer to 12.5. also, i should be able to get improved head room at higher rpms. when all 3 big injectors fire simultaneously, it dumps the fuel rail. each injector firing separately should reduce pressure fluctuations in the fuel supply. i'll still be using the same amount of fuel, it's just that the injectors will take turns at the fountain.
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| compjake | Sep 26 2011, 03:46 AM Post #187 |
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Mostest Elitest Member
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Even though that's a lot of work, I have a feeling you enjoy most of it. I know I would lol I wish you good luck and I can't wait to see it run.. again lol ![]() Those head studs look amazing
Edited by compjake, Sep 26 2011, 03:49 AM.
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| t3ragtop | Oct 1 2011, 03:37 PM Post #188 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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i made the jump to full sequential operation. now, instead of trying to run a less than perfect "spoofed" operation of a 6 cylinder wasted spark engine i've added the electronics to support 3 channels for injection and true 3 channel cop operation. i had to add an option board that has the provision for 4 channels of injector driver and 4 channels of ignition driver fets. i only needed 3 channels to support 3 cylinders so i didn't do a full population of the mod board. also, since i had my ignition working pretty well i didn't use the coil drivers. i did route my 3 ignition channels through the mod board so i could use it's db15 connector and a new, dedicated wiring harness to support ignition and injection. to date, guys who have done the sequential thing have used the existing distributor module with the bottom part of the distributor as the cam angle sensor. i never wanted to use the distributor at all. i deleted it and good riddance to a legacy mechanical system. my vision for a solid state cam angle sensor has been to use a hall effect device to sense the cam position via a small magnet on the cam gear. one of the technical problems that i ran into using a variable reluctance pickup on the crank as a sensor is that the signal that a v/r generates is a sawtooth waveshape that needs additional circuits to convert the sawtooth to a square waveshape. a hall effect device doesn't need a circuit to convert the signal, it puts out a nice clean square wave. my idea for the cam angle sensor was to use a small hall effect device package mounted to the flange on the valve cover behind the cam gear to sense a magnet embedded into the gear itself to index the zero degree point of the cam. to make that happen, the hall effect sensor requires a voltage to power the sensor, a ground, and then it puts out a square wave on a third wire. the megasquirt needs a small optoisolator circuit added to condition the signal before it sends it to an input on it's processor. i built that simple circuit on the proto area on the version 3 board. since i was sending my ignition trigger signals to the gt ignitors via the spare wire pads on the ms board, those 3 wires were freed up when i changed the ignition trigger outputs to the new, separate wiring harness. i used the 3 spare wires to connect the hall effect device for +12 volts, ground, and the return signal. i'm off to identify the south pole of a tiny 1/16th" x 1/2" cylindrical neodymium magnet, locate and drill a clearance hole in a cam gear's tooth, and set the magnet into the gear with a 2 part epoxy. i'm using a stock cam gear first before i do the expensive adjustable gear. practice makes perfect! :lol: moving right along. here's the miniaturized components to detect the cam angle. i set up my drill press to make sure that the drill table was square and the quill was plumb to optimize the angle of the magnet to the hall effect sensor's pickup. i located the tooth and the position of the hole in the back side of the cam gear, the tooth preceding the timing notch for zero degrees indexing. then i center punched the spot i want to drill. just prior to drilling, i re-checked the twist drill diameter to make sure i had selected the right size. all set to drill. i went 3/4" deep to allow the south pole of the magnet to project 1/4" to increase it's flux. i used loctite 2 part epoxy to pot the magnet. here's the magnet set in epoxy. i used a translucent red spray over a fresh bead blast to approximate the effect of anodized aluminum in hopes that the finish will match my anodized aluminum under drive pulley. also, the adjustable cam gear i'm running on the current engine does have a red anodized aluminum center and i wanted to see if the test gear has a close enough finish to match that. if it does, when i disassemble the adjustable cam gear timing gear i'll bead blast the outer steel gear and spray it with the same paint. i'll be working on the new wiring harness to connect the megasquirt box to the ignition and injection wiring under the hood using 3 position weatherpack connectors to match what i had set up for the batch fire configuration. it has been cold and raining today. the weather tomorrow is supposed to be more conducive to working outside so i'll pull the cam gear off the engine and mount the hall effect device on the valve cover then. as seen in the first pic in this post, the hall effect sensor has a split peg that pops through a hole, expands, and holds the package in place. it also has a smaller alignment peg so it will require marking a line between the timing notch on the valve cover and the center of the camshaft, locating the mounting holes to align the sensor's head with the arc of the magnet to make sure that the south pole of the magnet intersects with the sensor's position. i'll probably drill a third hole to mount a strain relief to secure the wiring to make sure that it doesn't contact the spinning cam gear and get sawn in half. it's cool when an idea starts to take shape in reality. :ez_smokin: |
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| Geo dude | Oct 1 2011, 07:48 PM Post #189 |
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Elite Member
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Your ability to create such complex systems like its nothing continues to amaze me.
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| Tofuball | Oct 1 2011, 08:28 PM Post #190 |
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Strange Mechanic
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I like your idea with the magnet. I may have to steal it
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| dayle1960 | Oct 1 2011, 08:39 PM Post #191 |
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Fastest Hampster EVER
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Two thumbs up ragtop. You must have been a NASA scientist in a previous life. Man, the stuff you come up with makes me feel like I live in a cave and beat my food to death before I throw it on a fire. What a sheer pleasure, for the GMF members, it is that you let us inside your brain. I wish I knew 1% of what you have hidden inside your brain. My life would be enriched. Now, could you refresh our memories on why you want to delete the dizzy and replace it with a magnet in the cam pulley? Are you going to get MPG gains or HP gains with the guino setup and added bits? Just curious and awed at the same time. Thanks |
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| Tofuball | Oct 1 2011, 08:44 PM Post #192 |
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Strange Mechanic
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It's extraneous. With the magnet he can run coil-on-plug. |
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| t3ragtop | Oct 1 2011, 10:13 PM Post #193 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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i set the ignition controls up with ford 2 wire cops from the start and used the external ignitors from the suzuki gt, one per each of the 3 coils. losing the distributor got rid of one more mechanical contraption and it gives me true electronic control of the ignition system, takes the mechanical load off the end of the cam, and does away with the frictional losses. there's no cap, rotor, or wires to wear out and since the single coil for that old system which had to charge and fire 3 times every engine cycle, using 3 coils firing once each per engine cycle allows them to maximize saturation much better at higher rpms resulting in a better spark. plus, i have always thought that the distributor hanging off the end of the head was butt ugly. once i had the distributor out of the way it gave me the absolutely shortest path to run the turbo charge air piping which in theory reduces lag time. it also cleared the decks so i could mount the water to air intercooler as close to the throttle body as possible. tofu, help yourself to any of my ideas. i won't mind. that's why i post this stuff, to light fires in other hobbyists. the only caution when using the megasquirt is to not have the cam angle sensor position coincide with the missing tooth position on the crank. my system puts the missing tooth 80 degrees prior to tdc and in the software, the tooth angle is set to 70 degrees. the cam angle is sensed about 11 degrees prior to the cam's zero point making the angular difference between the crank and cam trigger points 59 degrees. even with a total engine advance of 38 degrees, i have 21 degrees of safe operation. i'll be working on changing my v/r sensor on the crank to a hall effect device, too. that will get me away from the tedious work of adjusting the level and hysterisis pots to condition the timing signal. from my calculations, the hall effect device on the crank should generate a super clean square wave to 19,500 rpm. half of that is more than enough for a g10, turbo or not. i'm working my way through specs and pricing for that task. |
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| Coche Blanco | Oct 1 2011, 10:31 PM Post #194 |
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Troll Certified
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I was looking for underdrive pulleys and I found this. http://www.sdsefi.com/air52.htm Seems like it's the same sort of idea. Cool mod, T3.
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| t3ragtop | Oct 1 2011, 10:53 PM Post #195 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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yeah, simple digital has been turning out gold plated controls for the g10/ ultralight crowd for about 6 years. if you have ever checked their prices, i guarantee that you have been slapped with sticker shock! they get $2000 canadian for a 3 banger ignition control. my cam timing parts cost me $12 for 10 magnets and $8.54 plus postage for the hall effect device. the 4 channel board and components were $55 with postage, the optoisolator circuit parts were around $10 and i have maybe another $20 in wiring harness supplies. harnessing high tech for less.
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6:44 PM Jul 10