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monster turbo3 build
Topic Started: Jun 17 2011, 05:53 AM (36,539 Views)
bogs
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Duct tape heals all wounds

Definitely a 2 :thumb idea and nice work .
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

the work to mount the hall effect sensor was pretty straight forward. measure twice, drill once. :lol: i had to be careful drilling the hole for the alignment peg as the flat flange is cast in a position that would open into the inside of the valve cover if i drilled too deep. the split peg wanted the flange to be just a little thicker so to keep the package flat against the face i used a little spot of high density adhesive.
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drilling and mounting the magnet was just a repeat of yesterday's exercise. i drilled a little deeper and set the magnet flush with the face of the gear on this one to make sure i cleared the plastic sensor pack. the specs say that the gap can be up to 3/8ths of an inch.
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the installation was pretty much as i had envisioned it. i'll tuck the wiring into the split loom that loops over the top of the valve cover and the mod should be pretty well covered once i get my belt guard mounted.
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Alpine
1020cc G10 GOML

t3 honestly, you amaze me. i wish one day i could have the knowledge to do something like this.
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starscream5000
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Got 70 MPG?

Great job! :thumb
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

i finished up the additional wiring harness for the sequential conversion. the mod uses a db15 connector to carry the ignition triggers to the 3 ignitor/ coil sets, 3 injector trigger wires to fire the injectors individually instead of simultaneously, and a couple of additional ground wires to the common ground point.
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i have 3 more wires to relocate and connect for the hall effect device, drop in the new harness and plug the connectors together and i'll be ready to run again.

i'm still pushing the development for my next megasquirt/ turbo3 project and i've pretty much decided that the variable reluctor set up i used the first time is a can of worms to dial in. the hall effect devices automatically condition the trigger signal and although the v/r sensors work acceptably once dialed in, the hall sensors are idiot proof and will deliver a perfect square wave up to 19.500 rpm. :rocker

here's the new timing gear/ dual trigger wheel set for the next mill.
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the changes are that i moved the trigger wheel to the back side of the accessory pulley to make changing the accessory belt easier and i'll use the 1" crank gear from a 95 g10, the 7/8" wide round tooth timing belt, and the late model fixed cam gear. as far as controls go, i'll use hall effect sensors on the crank and cam. i've sourced 1/2" barrel type hall effect sensors so my sensor mounting scheme will change to something really trick and fully adjustable. ^o)
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Geo dude
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No updates in a while...what's up with the build? Eagerly awaiting updates.
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Scoobs
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:D

Damn man im am jealous :D
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

winter is creeping up on me so i re-arranged things in the garage to get my project car put away. my garage was already crammed full of everything except a car - now it also has the car. :)

even though i'm officially shut down for the season, i've been playing around with mods for the mods. the small package hall effect device works okay but i had an idea for a different setup that was a bit more, um, industrial.

i did a little machine work to mount a different hall effect sensor to index the cam angle.
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i'm building another megasquirted turbo3 engine over the winter (it keeps me out the bars :D ) and i have some different ideas, some new and some that refine the work i did on the last build.)
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i'm re-working the timing bits to include hall effect sensors on the cam and the crank gears, moving the 36-1 trigger wheel to the rear of the underdrive pulley, and using the later model g10, thinner (3/4") timing belt instead of the 30mm gt crank gear (which is harder for me to source.)

also, i'll keep the powder coating to a minimum on this engine. the last one blew the budget on that work. i'm shooting for a more "race car" look to this mill.
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bogs
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Duct tape heals all wounds

Details, its always in the details :thumb
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Tofuball
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Strange Mechanic

That looks like a much better mounting setup!
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

the first cam angle sensor was just to prove it would work - and it does work quite nicely.

the barrel type hall effect sensor is about 12 times the cost of the smaller package and aside from being able to adjust the air gap, the only other advantage is in appearance. i'm hoping that heat won't be a problem, the barrel type sensor will be as warm as the valve cover.

i also sourced a little adapter board with surface mounted components to consolidate the second trigger for the megasquirt. it's about the size of a postage stamp and fits the prototype area on the ms2 ver.3 board right next to the processor daughter board. when i bought the new style hall effect sensors i got 2. i'll retrofit the monster turbo3 with a barrel type first thing in the spring when i get the car back out.

i just received an order of stainless hardware for the engine assembly - head studs, manifold studs, and the engine kit. i'm still waiting on the special order high volume oil pump, a timing belt kit, and i'm saving my pennies for a 3 tech performance cam. ;)
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earthtoad


Pics of the Stainless Hardware ??.....
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Coche Blanco
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Troll Certified

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Scoobs
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:D

DAAAMN i want a turbo valve cover sooo bad lmao.
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

steve, a small factoid is that if you build a turbo3 engine you pretty much need to use the turbo valve cover. it's different from a normally aspirated valve cover in several ways.

there's a bracket that supports the turbo3 intake manifold that attaches to the head so the t3 valve cover is cast to allow clearance for that. if you don't use the support bracket you can crack the long port runners on the intake. there is also a drilled and threaded boss for a mounting point for the crankcase vent tube/ return to the turbo intake tube. the n/a valve cover has a big boss cast into it that is the mounting point for the air filter hat and that interferes with the fuel rail and injectors on the turbo3. the t3 valve cover also has a different oil vapor separator.

i would use a standard valve cover if i could get away with it as the turbo valve cover is pretty darned hard to find for the mk2 t3. they're also more than twice as expensive as the standard valve cover (canadian market only.) i have a couple of the n/a valve covers kicking around in my garage.

you can modfiy the n/a head to accept the injectors for the multiport fuel injection but you can't really modify the valve cover.
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