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monster turbo3 build
Topic Started: Jun 17 2011, 05:53 AM (36,535 Views)
bogs
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Duct tape heals all wounds

Very nice, now take a mac-rometer and measure the resulting smiles, a micrometer won't work :D
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

more metro porn for you guys. ;)

ralco rz aluminum adjustable cam gear (half of a swift gt set) modified with titanium allen head screws to lighten up the rotating mass. :whistle
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you can see the hall effect cam angle sensor on the valve cover flange behind the cam gear. those titanium allen head screws were about $5 each. :hmm
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Scoobs
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:D

Wow, where did you find that cam gear?
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

www.ultrarev.com

toll free 1.877.ultra72
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Scoobs
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:D

Hmmmm im looking at one now. very very tempting, but would it work with my 1991 square tooth crank gear...
looking at the pink one btw :p lol
Edited by Scoobs, Feb 15 2012, 01:06 AM.
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

you swap your crank gear to one from a later model, a last half year 94 thru 95. that gets you into a rounded tooth timing belt. you can use the crank gear from a swift gt (but it has 5 mounting holes for the accessory pulley) and the wider idler and belt. if you find the right 94/95 crank gear you can get a 4 hole, rounded tooth fitment.

it's the bomb if you want to tweak valve timing to your cam profile.
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Scoobs
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:D

right now its just an xfi cam :P lol
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

i use a machinist's block and a dial indicator to measure piston height vs. crank rotation to map the bottom end. then i bolt on a degree wheel and mount the timing belt to get everything set up "dead nutz" on the base valve timing. then i move the dial indicator to the cam and work through the #1 intake and exhaust lobes and map the valve opening points, the max lift points and the closing points.

moving the cam makes a global adjustment to valve timing on a sohc mill, the adjustable gears are more flexible on a twincam engine.

i use all the info and mapping to calculate my injection timing. i can move that pretty much anywhere i like with my main goal on this build to be able to let the intake valve begin to open, establish flow (air molecules have weight and you have to overcome the inertia of non-moving air) and then time the injection pulsewidth so that the pintle opens to blow a cloud of atomized fuel into the air stream and finishes it's delivery before the intake valve closes again. that process leaves basically no fuel in the port.

i can also dial in a "fuel trim" for each cylinder so i can tune for temperature differentials, the #2 cylinder has marginally less cooling surface area in the water jacket as it shares coolant jacket space with the #1 and #3 cylinders. i plan on running #2 just a tad richer than the outside bores. it's pretty typical for the turbo3 to have ring land failure in the #2 hole and i've attributed that to increased fire deck temps in that bore along with a general decline in tune causing lean fuel conditions.

anyway, the adjustable cam gear is probably overkill for a normally aspirated g10 unless you're doing an engine like tofu's and have the facility of a standalone ecu, multiport fuel injection, and a fancy timing system.

mike cove has his timing plan all worked out and advanced timing cam gears available for a better price, and in my estimation, value for n/a engines. even with my use of the adjustable cam gear, once i have it tweaked between 6* and 10* and mapped it gets tightened down and never moved again.

they are pretty, though. :D
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

here's a report with another word on the blue ralco rz adjustable cam gear. i was drilling 2 cam gears for a flying magnet, one was a stocker gear, modified to accept an aluminum center that could be adjusted and the ralco gear.

as soon as i picked both parts up i noticed the difference in weight. the stock gear in steel and the ralco in aircraft spec aluminum.

that's marvelous for what i wanted to do with embedding a magnet. if you bury a magnet in steel, the ferrous metal acts like a shield and damps the magnetic field considerably. non-ferrous metals like aluminum don't interact much with the magnetic field resulting in a much higher gauss assembly.

that's why i left about 3/16" of the south pole of the magnet sticking out of the gear. i left the magnet exposed on both gears because i used the set depth on the drill press to machine both holes. i also drilled the pilot hole all the way through the gear tooth so that i could use a pin punch to knock the magnet back out if i ever wanted to change it.
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

the malaysian sourced cam gear, red, on the left and the usa produced ralco rz cam gear, blue, on the right.
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front side.
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the all aluminum assembly is really light. theoretically, that should be a mechanical benefit. for my application the real value is in the propagation of the flying magnet's field strength.
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

the crank assembly, 75mm 16 valve vitara pistons, rings, gt connecting rods, and crankshaft have been returned to the machine shop after it was dynamically zero balanced at the balancing shop. (the guy who runs that builds monstrous v8 racing boat motors and he really grinds on me about my "tiny" engines. :-/ )

i have finished everything on my mocked up top end/ head assembly. it has the adjustable fuel pressure regulated fuel rail, 330cc/min ultra fast acting injectors from a v6 acura application, custom adjustable cam gear further modified to provide a timing signal using a hall effect device so the megasquirt can run full sequential injector control and direct, 3 channel ignition. i fitted a clt from a chevy cobalt to give me chevy scaled response for the coolant temperature and modified the thermostat water neck to accept the temp sensor to run the pulse width modulated fan speed controls and to provide coolant flow to the turbo.

the engine hardware is all a2 stainless. the head bolts are replaced with 17-4 stainless alloy studs that use flange nuts on top of 2.8mm thick washers to clamp the head down. the head gasket is the mark dvorak "no blow" type, the turbo exhaust manifold gasket is the beck-arnley mls type.

the only corners i cut on this build is that i didn't have parts powder coated. i used eastwood company high ceramic silicone paint in gloss black for everything under 600*f and matte black high ceramic enamel for anything between 600 and 1500*f (head and intake manifold.)

finished pic.
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key4202003
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very nice :thumb
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clarkdw


That is one sweet looking piece. :thumb :thumb
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

i had rolled the blue monster out of the garage to dig out a g13 flywheel and some other parts and to show the car to scoobs this morning. geoglenn and scoobs went on their way and since the car was out in the sunshine i did a little work on it with parts i had gotten ready over the winter.

i indexed and bored the hole in the valve cover flange to mount the upgraded unipolar hall effect sensor for the new sequential injection setup - no easy feat with the engine in the car and really limited space for a drill motor and a nearly 1/2" diameter bit after i got that done i mounted the new lightweight billet aluminum cam gear and reset the static timing. just sitting in the garage over the winter had badly tarnished the "fake" chrome i had on the timing belt tensioner arm and the 3 rib water pump pulley (which really pissed me off because the guys who sold me that service "guaranteed" me that the finish would last as long as hard chrome plating - liar, liar, pants on fire!) i wanted to swap the accessory belt to a 4 ribbed type and i had the replacement parts done in blue powdercoating when i had everything else done so while i had the timing belt off i did that work in preparation for mounting the new crank timing set i built on the new run of 3 tech performance aluminum under drive pulleys.
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i had picked up a set of custom billet aluminum window cranks last fall and since the car was out of the garage, i mounted those. i was surprised to find that the pair of aluminum window cranks weighed 1 gram less than the pair of plastic cranks that came from the factory. they look sort of neat.
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i got the body parts out that i needed for the red resto-rod vert project, moved some rims and tires around, and rolled the blue vert back into the garage. i'll get back to that project after i have the red vert all set up as my daily driver.
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

those sweet new 3 tech performance aluminum underdrive pulleys with a double sprinkle of t3 ragtop mad science. :rocker
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