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| monster turbo3 build | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jun 17 2011, 05:53 AM (36,545 Views) | |
| bogs | Jul 25 2011, 12:10 PM Post #106 |
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Duct tape heals all wounds
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Always a good thing to see it moving forward . |
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| Alpine | Jul 25 2011, 01:02 PM Post #107 |
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1020cc G10 GOML
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where did you get your control rods? |
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| t3ragtop | Jul 25 2011, 04:29 PM Post #108 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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a guy on teamswift raced his swift gt and had some made for his car. that turned into 2 production runs and a group buy several years ago. i had put a set on my white twincam vert which i did a weekend warrior thing with at the local autoX course. they make a huge difference in handling. the stock toe bars flex like mad and won't hold the rear alignment worth a ding dong. i bought a stick of t-6061 19mm heavy wall aluminum tubing, 2 left hand threaded 12mm x 1.25 heim joints, 2 right hand threaded 12mm x 1.25 heim joints (from mcmaster-carr) and some nuts and popped these together. i didn't have a left hand 12mm x 1.25 tap so i had my cousin's machine shop tap the tubes (it was cheaper than buying the tap.) everything including the mounting hardware cost me around $130. i could have gotten off a little cheaper but i use stainless steel and aluminum on almost everything i build. once you get away from those flexible stamped factory toe control bars you will never go back to them.
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| t3ragtop | Jul 25 2011, 08:42 PM Post #109 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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i got another couple hours in this evening. lizzie brought 3 chinese teenagers home for dinner. they're here for an english immersion program. she was going to take them swimming but once they found netflix and a 42" flat screen, that was out. :lol: i ran the wiring for the terrestrial digital tv and ran the checkout with the little netbook. i also hooked up the megasquirt controller. i left it loose on the floor as i will have to open it up to tweak a couple of potentiometers to peak the v/r signal. after i have everything dialed in the case will go up under the dash to the right of the console. i bolted the old civic seat back in. new seats will be in next spring's budget with new silver carpet and a dark blue german brushed sailcloth top. i also did a little bit under the hood. i changed the thermostat to a good european 180* unit with a "tickler" on it and put the intercooler and charge air pipe back on which covers up a lot of wiring. tomorrow, i'll either work on the last section of the exhaust or drop the battery in and start doing electrical checks depending on what the skies look like. i may have to let the welding go until the weekend as it may take longer than i have time for in an evening. |
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| Coche Blanco | Jul 25 2011, 09:32 PM Post #110 |
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Troll Certified
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Do you have more pictures of the laptop mount? |
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| t3ragtop | Jul 26 2011, 12:13 AM Post #111 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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anything specific you want to know? |
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| Coche Blanco | Jul 26 2011, 12:17 AM Post #112 |
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Troll Certified
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What is it made out of? like the rod. |
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| Jezza | Jul 26 2011, 01:19 AM Post #113 |
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Boost Junkie
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Probably flex tubing with a plastic flex cover ... i like it
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| t3ragtop | Jul 26 2011, 05:20 AM Post #114 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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it's made from segments of steel, jointed from one segment to the next. that's covered by a plastic convoluted tubing. it has a bracket at the top that i fixed to a piece of plexiglass (hot pink was all i had laying around.) i buzzed a couple of slots in the plexi for a velcro strap that holds the netbook in place. the flexible stalk is sort of braced by the seat but there's a little wiggle to it while driving. i tested it in my tracker for a couple of months. the netbook only weighs 2 lbs. so the mount isn't exactly overtaxed. i think it was originally supposed to be for a dvd player, one of those portable 7" units. i set the tv antenna in the upper corner of the windshield on the passenger's side and hid the coax behind the a-pillar trim. i wired in 2 power adapters, one is hot with the key in the accessory position, the other one is hot in the run position. the netbook is powered along with the stereo in the accessory position and the megasquirt, gauges, fuel injection and ignition are powered in the run position. digital terrestrial tv broadcast signals can't be received with the car in motion so i won't be watching the news while i'm driving.
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| t3ragtop | Jul 27 2011, 05:06 AM Post #115 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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i played hard tonight. i had a bunch of items on my check list. first i dialed in my gps system. it works great. i bolted the seats in with stainless hardware. i bolted the battery in and did some voltage checks. i still want to get the digital terrestrial tv antenna location fine tuned. after replacing the master cylinder assembly the brake lights were on all the time so i had to adjust the switch on the pedal assembly. the headlights are really bright and all the leds work great. i need to work on the turn signals as they won't flash. i calibrated all the gauges. the innovate mtx was super easy. turn power on without the o2 sensor connected so the gauge displays E2 and power down. plug in the o2 sensor and turn on the power. the display says Htr for 60 seconds as the heater calibrates. the the display reads caL as the o2 sensor calibrates in open air. the display reads 22.4. then i powered down, unplugged the o2 sensor and installed it in the bung. done! as the fuel pump ran it's prime cycle, i got a little drip from the fuel rail so i tightened things up to stop the leak. the oil temperature gauge read 84* which was the ambient temperature, oil pressure scrolled "low." battery voltage read 11.9 volts and matched my precision multimeter's reading. i calibrated the tps with the megasquirt, checked the coolant temp and intake air temp - both read the ambient 84*, i also checked the map against the barometric pressure just to make sure things were working right. here's the engine bay as it will appear. i still need to mount the upper strut bar but it clears everything just fine. |
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| starscream5000 | Jul 27 2011, 09:50 AM Post #116 |
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Got 70 MPG?
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T3, just wanted to say that you are doing some damn nice work man!
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| t3ragtop | Jul 27 2011, 09:50 PM Post #117 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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i got oil in the engine and cold cranked it at starter speed to get oil pressure. the system now holds 5 quarts. the compression is a beast! cold cranking had it going bathump, bathump, bathump. the idiot light for oil pressure went out and the digital gauge had 32 psi on it at starter speed. i ran the optima battery down to 11 volts so i put it on my gel cell charger. they're calling for rain tonight and tomorrow but i'll get water in the block and the intercooler system for testing when i get home from work and press on. |
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| ponzy | Jul 28 2011, 08:41 PM Post #118 |
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damn, wish i could get half your skills and money as well to get at least 1/4 you did on your car...... very nice....i was looking into your firewall and its all custom wiring and what not...... i like the SS plates for your relays, color combination of your heater hoses, vacuum and fuel lines..... how did you rig up your battery lines? you have 4 lines towards your power end.... |
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| t3ragtop | Jul 29 2011, 05:21 AM Post #119 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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i am not rich by any means. it took me 2 years of swapping, selling, and saving to buy parts. anything i couldn't buy, i made. and i build all my stuff so i'm not paying for labor.i have a high power stereo in the car so that takes one 4 gauge and one 8 gauge cable from the battery. then there's the 6 gauge cable to the starter and the smaller black wire for the fuse and relay block and another 4 gauge cable for the relay panels also run from the battery anode. i used three 4 gauge cables as returns to the battery cathode. i fabricated the relay panels and the mounting plate for the vacuum manifold on the firewall from t-6061 aluminum plate, the same material i used for the v/r pickup mount on the front of the engine. aluminum is easier for me to fabricate from in my garage with the tools i have at hand. i have a hard time welding it, though. it also helps that i started with a car that i have been working on for years so the suspension, brakes, and interior had already been sorted out. overall, the car isn't bad for one that i bought for $250 at a yard sale.
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| Coche Blanco | Jul 29 2011, 10:26 AM Post #120 |
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Troll Certified
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...how much do you have in it? *sits down incase he faints* |
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it took me 2 years of swapping, selling, and saving to buy parts. anything i couldn't buy, i made. and i build all my stuff so i'm not paying for labor.
6:44 PM Jul 10