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| Total noob needing help; '98 manual 3-cyl | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jul 11 2011, 02:55 PM (5,133 Views) | |
| GoCanucksGo | Jul 11 2011, 02:55 PM Post #1 |
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Hey guys, So I'm brand new to this forum and I've read a bunch of threads but not quite all of them yet so I apologize if these questions have already been answered but I'd appreciate some feedback nonetheless. I'm comfortable with tools but I really don't know much about cars so be patient with me if I ask some really basic questions. My girlfriend's dad gave me their '98 metro 3-cyl. I got it knowing that it leaks a lot of oil but after driving it for a month I'm noticing a lot of other problems with it. It has 266k on it (kilometers not miles) so I'm thinking a re-build is probably in the near future. I took it to a mechanic to address a few issues: 1) When I'm driving on the highway, whenever I'm in 4th or 5th gear the car begins to "lurch", almost as if something is misfiring, if I try to accelerate too quickly. This doesn't happy all the time, I drive the car every day and one week I'll be unable to drive on the highway, the next it's fine. When I took it to the mechanic we put in new spark plugs (BPR brand) and it seemed fine for the next week when I drove it. 2) We degreased the engine to try and locate where the oil leak is coming from, after driving it around for a bit I popped the hood and watched several drops of oil leak from my distributor. I bought the O-ring for the distributor shaft last week and popped it in, it seems to have fixed the problem, however I'm still finding traces of oil underneath the distributor. Now I'm finding that oil is leaking from the opposite end of my engine just underneath the timing belt, blown head gasket maybe? From what I've read on the forums, the common problems seem to be caused by a plugged PCV valve, I'm taking it to my dad's friend tomorrow to run a compression test and get his opinion on things so I can give you guys those numbers tomorrow night. My biggest question though is what is causing my car to "lurch" when I'm on the highway? I've read that the other common problems are the piston rings but how does that affect power to the car? Again this only happens sometimes. Also, every once in a while when I start the car I see some blue smoke briefly come out of my exhaust so I'm obviously burning oil but I've only seen this once. My girlfriend said it would happen every once in awhile when she still drove the car but didn't care to fix it. Oh I should probably also mention that because the car is leaking several liters a week, my girlfriend's dad would just throw in used oil in order to save money because he felt it wasn't worth investing the time to fix the leak... |
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| starscream5000 | Jul 11 2011, 03:44 PM Post #2 |
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Got 70 MPG?
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It needs a new PCV valve for one, and that bad PCV valve most likely blew out the camshaft seal or crankshaft seal from it's place. You will need two new seals (buy two camshaft seals, they are the same as the crankshaft seal but cheaper), a new timing belt, and some black RTV sealant to go around the outer edge of the two new seals. Here are some helpful threads to do the above mentioned job. PCV replacement: http://geometroforum.com/topic/4193973/1/ Crank seal how-to (camshaft seal is the same procedure, just remove the cam bolt and take the cam gear off): http://geometroforum.com/topic/3083546/1/ timing belt replacement: http://geometroforum.com/topic/2232748/1/ The lurching issue sounds like there may be a bad vacuum line going to the MAP sensor. The MAP sensor is on the firewall on the passenger side and has a short vacuum line going to the intake manifold. Edited by starscream5000, Jul 11 2011, 03:45 PM.
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| GoCanucksGo | Jul 11 2011, 04:04 PM Post #3 |
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awesome, thanks for the info starscream, especially the links to past threads. Where is the cheapest place to buy parts though? I've heard NAPA and Lordco will charge me an arm and a leg so am I better off just waiting a few days for an online shipment? I've looked at a few online auto stores and they seem to only carry parts up to 1997 models, will they still fit my '98? |
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| starscream5000 | Jul 11 2011, 04:18 PM Post #4 |
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Got 70 MPG?
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They are the same. There is no such thing as a 1998 Geo Metro over in the states, it's called a 1998 Chevy Metro, so you're probably just searching wrong. I would go to your local auto parts store for the seals and RTV, or just get the seals and belt and rockauto.com and the RTV locally. |
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| GoCanucksGo | Jul 12 2011, 10:56 PM Post #5 |
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So I got my car checked out briefly today, we ran a quick scan because my check engine light is on and PO133 came up as well as PO400. I looked up on other threads that PO133=HO2S 1 Circuit Slow Response, and PO400=EGR Flow Malfunction. The guy was thinking that the EGR malfunction is the reason why my car is "lurching" in high gears. Any ideas as to what would cause this and what do I need to do to repair it? We took a quick look underneath the timing belt cover and the belt itself looks like it's in great condition but the crankshaft seal is gone. The biggest concern that the guy told me was that because this seal was broken for so long (I just found out from my gf that the car has been leaking for years), the shaft might have worn down a bit so much so that even if I replace the seal it might not actually "seal" anything in which case I'm still going to get leaks. If that is the case should I just buy a new crankshaft or would I be able to weld that portion of the shaft to build it back up and then get it machined again? |
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| GoCanucksGo | Jul 12 2011, 10:59 PM Post #6 |
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Oh I forgot to add that we didn't run a compression test because we just popped off the oil cap and opened up the throttle with our hands over the open engine to feel for any "pulsing" and we didn't feel anything so we just skipped the compression test because we figured the pistons were ok. |
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| idmetro | Jul 13 2011, 05:42 AM Post #7 |
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A compression test is your best gauge of overall engine health - get one when you can, it really doesn't take that long just make sure you do it with the engine warm and the throttle wide open to get the most accurate results. http://geometroforum.com/topic/2574993/1/ Trouble codes can be found here: http://geometroforum.com/topic/638390/1/#new The EGR system typically requires some truly heavy duty cleaning to get it all functioning properly (especially after being neglected for years). Most often it is not the EGR valve but the passages in the head and intake manifold that get clogged up and take extra effort to get cleaned out. http://geometroforum.com/topic/678529/1/ You probably don't need a new crankshaft. Check the surface where the seal makes contact, if you can feel a groove with your fingernail than you probably want to investigate a repair sleeve. There are several manufacturers out there, I have used a brand called speedi-sleeve http://www.vsm.skf.com/en-US/HeavyDuty/KitsAndTools/SpeediSleeve.aspx You can get these or an equivalent at you local NAPA store. Good Luck! |
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| GoCanucksGo | Jul 14 2011, 12:33 AM Post #8 |
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Alrighty so today I changed the PCV valve, the crankshaft seal and replaced my alternator belt because it was absolutely trashed but the timing belt was still in really good condition so I didn't bother changing it. So far no leaks but it's only been a few hours so we'll see if anything explodes over the next couple of days. Thanks a lot for sending me those links starscream and just out of curiosity, what did you do to your car to get it over 60 mpg? Thanks for the info on the EGR idmetro and thankfully the crankshaft looked pretty good so I didn't need a repair sleeve. I'll get on the compression test after I clean out all the EGR components once I have some time next week. It was a pretty easy job overall to be honest (with a lot of help from my uncle) but man my nut sack feels HUGE right now! |
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| idmetro | Jul 14 2011, 05:21 AM Post #9 |
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Congrats on your success! Enjoy the fruits of your labor as you tool around getting as good or better mileage than virtually anything else on the road! |
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| starscream5000 | Jul 14 2011, 11:15 AM Post #10 |
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Got 70 MPG?
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My modifications are in my profile. |
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| GoCanucksGo | Jul 14 2011, 03:49 PM Post #11 |
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oh right, just checked it out. What did you find gave you the biggest gain in fuel efficiency? |
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| starscream5000 | Jul 14 2011, 04:55 PM Post #12 |
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Got 70 MPG?
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Buying my vacuum gauge and not pressing on the gas pedal as much. I try to drive around 45MPH with 17" of vacuum. No more than 15" of vacuum unless I'm taking off or climbing a hill. |
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| GoCanucksGo | Jul 15 2011, 04:24 PM Post #13 |
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I looked into some of the different gizmos shown at ecomodder.com and I'm wondering is it worth forking over the extra $100 for a scan gauge over a vacuum gauge? |
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| Old Man | Jul 15 2011, 05:49 PM Post #14 |
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Edited by Old Man, Aug 23 2011, 10:58 PM.
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| Potter | Jul 15 2011, 06:25 PM Post #15 |
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Col. Potter
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edit... nvrmnd you fixed it congrats
Edited by Potter, Jul 15 2011, 06:28 PM.
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