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Total noob needing help; '98 manual 3-cyl
Topic Started: Jul 11 2011, 02:55 PM (5,139 Views)
Scoobs
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:D

3 intake, 3 exaust?
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GoCanucksGo
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Steved82971
Jul 26 2011, 02:23 AM
3 intake, 3 exaust?
ah, yes that would make sense
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GoCanucksGo
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okkk so I just youtubed how to do a compression test and turns out I definitely did it wrong so I will have the more accurate results tomorrow.
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starscream5000
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Got 70 MPG?

Let me guess, you didn't hold the gas pedal down to the floor when testing?
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GoCanucksGo
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starscream5000
Jul 26 2011, 09:46 AM
Let me guess, you didn't hold the gas pedal down to the floor when testing?
ahh no more like I tried to do it while the engine was running lol. Anyways here are the proper results:
1) 55 dry / 70 wet
2) 55 dry / 70 wet
3) 70 dry / 85 wet

I also watched as oil dripped off the top of the oil pan, definitely a blown gasket. Rebuild time!

Considering I know barely anything about cars and I'm kind of learning as I go, realistically how long would it take for me to rebuild my engine?
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starscream5000
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Got 70 MPG?

two weekends of dedicated work.
or one long weekend if you're in a rush and need the car going right away.
Edited by starscream5000, Jul 26 2011, 03:33 PM.
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ponzy


If you're up to rebuilding your engine, and you are not in a rush, i would suggest you inspect the intrrnals first, then you go from there. Buy parts that you really need.
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GoCanucksGo
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ponzy
Jul 26 2011, 10:10 PM
If you're up to rebuilding your engine, and you are not in a rush, i would suggest you inspect the intrrnals first, then you go from there. Buy parts that you really need.
well I am definitely in a rush to try and get this all figured out in the next two weeks but if it takes another two weeks then no biggy, school starts for me in september so as long as everything is fixed before then I'm golden. What do you mean by the internals? Keep in mind the title of this thread is "total noob" lol so I need a bit more detailed explanations than the seasoned vets on this forum.
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idmetro
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By internals I believe Ponzy is referring to pistons, connecting rods, connecting rod bearings, main bearings, thrust bearings, crank and rings. The various bearings and the rings would all be replaced (in an ideal situation) while the remaining items would be carefully inspected, measured to make sure they were within acceptable tolerances (spec'ed in the Factory Service Manual) cleaned and if found to be in good shape reused or if necessary replaced. When working with rings be careful working with the old ones they will be very sharp on the edges.

Get your new stainless steel exhaust valves and new head bolts on the way from 3Tech now. He will ship them out but sometimes things take a little longer to clear US customs - you don;t want to be sitting around waiting for parts.
Edited by idmetro, Jul 27 2011, 05:01 AM.
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GoCanucksGo
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idmetro
Jul 27 2011, 04:59 AM
By internals I believe Ponzy is referring to pistons, connecting rods, connecting rod bearings, main bearings, thrust bearings, crank and rings. The various bearings and the rings would all be replaced (in an ideal situation) while the remaining items would be carefully inspected, measured to make sure they were within acceptable tolerances (spec'ed in the Factory Service Manual) cleaned and if found to be in good shape reused or if necessary replaced. When working with rings be careful working with the old ones they will be very sharp on the edges.

Get your new stainless steel exhaust valves and new head bolts on the way from 3Tech now. He will ship them out but sometimes things take a little longer to clear US customs - you don;t want to be sitting around waiting for parts.
oh ok, ya I had most of those on the list for replacement anyways minus the main bearings and thrust bearings (what do the do exactly?). Is there any real significant difference getting stainless steel exhaust valves compared with the original cast iron sets?
I'm ordering my parts from partsdinosaur.com and he offers stainless steel exhaust valves for $5 cheaper than 3tech...
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idmetro
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Stainless exhaust valves are reported to be much more heat tolerant and virtually impossible to burn, since that is one of the weak points in this engine they are well worth the investment. Get the reusable headbolts not the stock torque to yield ones; that way if you ever have to pull the head again you only need a new head gasket not new head bolts as well (the originals are designed as a one time use, although some guys reuse them...)

Main bearings are the bearings between the crankshaft and the block, their function is to hold the crank stable in the up/down direction. Thrust bearings job is to hold the crank stable in the back to front direction (I believe they are on the third journal, if I remember correctly). A number of folks have reused both of these bearings but I am of the opinion that it would be pennywise and pound foolish to get into the engine this far and not replace them. All of these can be replaced with the engine in the car so only a few extra minutes of effort is needed to do the job. Do make sure you line up the oil delivery holes in the bearings with those in the block.

You can start reading here: http://geometroforum.com/topic/2335235/1/ , this will also be useful http://geometroforum.com/topic/3937058/1/ (do not take all the lifters apart at once - it is possible to assemble them backwards and you will want to save an example or at least take a digital picture as you go to avoid this problem), head work detailed here: http://geometroforum.com/topic/638797/1/ , there is a discussion of re-using bearings here http://geometroforum.com/topic/4354171/1/ .

Enough reading for now, keep us posted on your progress. Good Luck!
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GoCanucksGo
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idmetro
Jul 28 2011, 05:30 AM
Stainless exhaust valves are reported to be much more heat tolerant and virtually impossible to burn, since that is one of the weak points in this engine they are well worth the investment. Get the reusable headbolts not the stock torque to yield ones; that way if you ever have to pull the head again you only need a new head gasket not new head bolts as well (the originals are designed as a one time use, although some guys reuse them...)

Main bearings are the bearings between the crankshaft and the block, their function is to hold the crank stable in the up/down direction. Thrust bearings job is to hold the crank stable in the back to front direction (I believe they are on the third journal, if I remember correctly). A number of folks have reused both of these bearings but I am of the opinion that it would be pennywise and pound foolish to get into the engine this far and not replace them. All of these can be replaced with the engine in the car so only a few extra minutes of effort is needed to do the job. Do make sure you line up the oil delivery holes in the bearings with those in the block.

You can start reading here: http://geometroforum.com/topic/2335235/1/ , this will also be useful http://geometroforum.com/topic/3937058/1/ (do not take all the lifters apart at once - it is possible to assemble them backwards and you will want to save an example or at least take a digital picture as you go to avoid this problem), head work detailed here: http://geometroforum.com/topic/638797/1/ , there is a discussion of re-using bearings here http://geometroforum.com/topic/4354171/1/ .

Enough reading for now, keep us posted on your progress. Good Luck!
thank you for the explanations. Geez after reading all these threads I'm starting to become terrified of this whole rebuilding process! I think Ponzy put it best in one of the threads that the more he learns, the more headaches he knows is going to happen when he starts rebuilding. I'll be taking about a million photos so I'll post them as I start taking the engine apart.
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idmetro
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Don't let it terrify you; It's a series of small actions that need to be taken to create an incredibly useable end product. Take it slow and easy and you will do fine. I like to take the blue painters tape and label wires as I unhook them as well as putting all the bolts from a particular assembly in a labeled zip lock bag. I am not fast enough to do it all in a single day so that way I don't hav to even try to remember which set of bolts go to the water pump, alternator bracket, etc... Also helps to put all the bags in a box so none get lost. Good Luck!
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yiffzer
Forgot His Manpurse

And take photos so that you do not forget. :)
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snowfish
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Basic GearHead

:gp ZipLocks, Tape, and pictures. Lot's of pictures. :thumb
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