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| Total noob needing help; '98 manual 3-cyl | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jul 11 2011, 02:55 PM (5,138 Views) | |
| GoCanucksGo | Jul 29 2011, 03:46 PM Post #46 |
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ok, I will definitely be taking my sweet time with this. First question though, I've watched about 6 different videos on youtube for finding TDC but all of the methods seem to work well only for the specific engine they are working on, what is the best method for TDC on our G10? |
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| Bad Bent | Jul 30 2011, 01:15 PM Post #47 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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I pull the #1 spark plug and remove the distributor cap. I rotate the engine by hand using a 17mm socket/wrench on the crank bolt. When the distributor rotor approaches 12 o'clock I put my right hand finger over the spark plug hole while rotating the engine with my left hand. You will feel air pressure from the piston rising. If not you need to keep rotating the crank until you get pressure. You can stick a long plastic stick or stray in the spark plug hole and continue to turn the crankshaft until the straw stops rising. That is TDC and the timing mark should be at 0. If you pull the valve cover you can rotate the crankshaft until the two lifters/valves on the #1 piston are closed but I still want to use the stick to know when TDC is reached. |
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| GoCanucksGo | Jul 30 2011, 03:01 PM Post #48 |
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ya I lucked out, my uncle stopped by as I was taking the car apart and we used a screw driver instead of the plastic stick and just found the highest point |
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| GoCanucksGo | Aug 2 2011, 04:19 AM Post #49 |
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okey dokey so I got the engine out yesterday and I started the bottom end rebuild today. I pulled the pistons out and I'm a little concerned because, except for piston #3, they looked pretty good considering I was getting such low numbers on my compression test. The rings also looked brand new except for the bottom, third groove that has two rings encompassing that suture-shaped thing (no idea what it's called). FYI I'm previewing this post and none of these images are popping up for me so I don't know if it's just my computer but I'm posting the links to the same pictures. As you can tell at the bottom of the picture there's some pitting in the top of the piston, I would assume that this is where the knocking in my engine is coming from.Piston #3 ![]() Here's piston #2, the sides look fine it's just the top that looks pretty cooked, which I assume is normal? #1 looks the same way Piston #2 ![]() These are a couple pictures of the rings starting from the top groove and working my way down, these are just the rings from piston #3 but they all look the same. I kind of broke the second ring when I pulled it out lol top groove ![]() middle groove ![]() ![]() bottom groove ![]() Here are the bearings on the underside of the journal (I think these are the main bearings), granted I haven't seen what a brand new pair look like but these appear to be in pretty good shape or is it just my inexperience? There is some wear but nowhere near what I was expecting. Regardless I have everything taken apart so I'm going to be replacing them along with the bearings on top of the journal (rod bearings?) Side view ![]() Top view ![]() Rod Bearings ![]() I also noticed this when I popped my timing belt cover off. Obviously my crank pulley is rubbing against the cover but any ideas why? It didn't look like this before I took it all off two weeks ago when I changed the crank seal... Maybe I didn't put the bolts in the right holes? ![]() |
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| GoCanucksGo | Aug 4 2011, 05:15 AM Post #50 |
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I got in touch with Mike from 3tech the other day but I just pulled out my cam and took a look at it and there's a few areas that have some wear, do you guys think the core is still good?![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Edited by bogs, Aug 4 2011, 09:28 AM.
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| bogs | Aug 4 2011, 09:30 AM Post #51 |
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Duct tape heals all wounds
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Edited your posts to show the pics, basically you want to use the last code on the page link to get the urls, says html code and the format looks like this : [IMG]http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m525/tker87/CamShaft4.jpg[/IMG] |
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| GoCanucksGo | Aug 4 2011, 01:49 PM Post #52 |
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oh ok thanks |
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| GoCanucksGo | Aug 8 2011, 05:41 PM Post #53 |
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ok guys I need some advice here. I my engine block in to a machinist's shop to get it checked out and it turns out the entire thing is messed. It needs decking, boring, crankshaft turning, and with the additional cost to push out my connector rods from my pistons I'm looking at $380. Now factoring in the costs for parts I'm realistically looking at about $700 in total to get my engine up and running. I haven't had them check out the top half either but I'm assuming it's ok (I hope). I asked a guy that sells engine cores and see if I could save some money that way but the guy flat out said that all of his cores need machining so I'd be in the same boat I'm in now. He suggested I go to a scrap yard and find a running engine and if I can get one for $600 I'm laughing. My issue with this though is that there's no way of telling whether or not I'll be in the same situation I'm in, a year from now. The machine shop actually has two completely rebuilt G10 engines and literally all that needs to be done is to drop it in thecar, add oil, and turn the key, but it's at a hefty price of $1495. This is the exchange price so I'd be giving him all of my old parts. It has a one year/20000km warranty. I got my geo for free so I don't mind dropping money into it but geez 1500 is a bit steep when I can do it for $700. My biggest issue is time, I have school starting in a few weeks and I deliver pizzas for work. I've been using my sister's car but it's getting to the point where she hardly gets to drive it because I'm using it the entire time. If I buy the rebuilt engine, everything would be hooked up in a day. If I order all the parts and do everything myself I'm looking at roughly two weeks before I get my engine up and running, and this is assuming there are no delays when I order the parts from 3tech and partsdinosaur.com Any suggestions or thoughts? |
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| Scoobs | Aug 8 2011, 05:44 PM Post #54 |
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:D
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Rebuild yours, Youll love the experience. Look at my page, thats what we're doing
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| GoCanucksGo | Aug 9 2011, 02:45 AM Post #55 |
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I completely agree with you SteveD, I know the experience would be amazing, the amount of information I've learned in the past two weeks about my engine has been amazing but after having talks with several friends and family they all kind of made me agree that time is too much of an issue for me and I'm better off to just buy the rebuild . I'm hoping I might be able to talk the price down a bit with an offer of cash and lol
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| GoCanucksGo | Aug 14 2011, 07:13 PM Post #56 |
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Ok guys, so I bought the rebuilt engine and we're installing it now but I'm try to re-assemble the flywheel (got a brand new Becks-Arnley clutch assembly) and The torque specs say 55 ft-lbs. When I tried to reinstall it I got to like 40 and broke a bolt. We bought brand new hardware with some lock washers and we're trying to get it up to 55 but we don't even hit 40 ft-lbs and the lock washers are getting ruined. I really don't want to have to pull out another broken bolt, do you guys have any suggestions? Should I just keep the new lock washers off? |
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| 96Geoman | Aug 14 2011, 08:52 PM Post #57 |
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If I understand you correctly, you're breaking a bolt while attaching the clutch to the flywheel? It could be a number of things Is the flywheel new? If it is used, did you chase the bolt holes first with a tap? Do you have the original flywheel bolts? Did you try a nut on the old flywheel bolt then on the new bolt to make sure the thread pattern was correct? ( I think most of the bolts on the car are metric) Could your torque wrench be giving a faulty reading? Are you sure you installed the clutch correctly? (Clutch Disc facing the correct direction and tool inserted to hold disc in place while attaching) |
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| GoCanucksGo | Aug 14 2011, 11:07 PM Post #58 |
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the flywheel is used but I got it resurfaced, no I didn't re-tap it but the bolts all screwed with no problem, it's only when I try to torque it that the heads just break off. We made sure that our new bolts threaded in by hand first so it was all good that way. We suspected that the torque wrench might be out of whack but I figure it's the bolts themselves, they're a grade 5 bolt, which I think is the same as the ones we took off (seen as the old ones snapped on us when we tried to re-use them). I read on other forums that the fasteners we bought from Rona are actually rated at 8.8 and flywheel bolts should be 12.9 so I'll be trying that tomorrow. Yes I definitely installed the clutch correctly, it said on one side of it "flywheel side" so I'm positive I've installed it correctly with the little guide tool that ensures everything is in line properly. |
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| GoCanucksGo | Aug 22 2011, 03:05 AM Post #59 |
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okkk so this rebuild project has been taking me way too long to complete. Anyways I'm basically finished, everything's installed, most of my vacuum lines are hooked up and most of my wire connections are done (hopefully correctly). However, I found this vacuum/fuel line just loosely hanging and I didn't have any markings on it so it kind of suggests to me that it was already unhooked. It connects to the sidewall and runs along the firewall and I'm guessing that it basically connects right near the downstream O2 sensor. Well the hose was too short (possibly why it was unhooked in the first place, might've just been barely on and then slipped off) and so I started tugging on it anddddd it popped out of the sidewall. I've shoved it back into the hole but it isn't really connected to anything and I can't find any male connectors that it should attach to... so what is this hose and what should I do about it? It's pulled pretty taut and like I said it's kind of just shoved in the hole, I'm pretty certain that all it's going to take is one gnarly pothole and it'll pop out again.![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Also, these two little connectors come straight off my upstream O2 sensor and for the life of me I can't remember where it goes. I remember when we hauled out the engine we didn't have a cherry picker or any sort of lift so we picked it up by hand and we basically just ripped the connector off the engine before I could snap a picture of it... help please?
Edited by GoCanucksGo, Aug 22 2011, 03:12 AM.
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| 96Geoman | Aug 22 2011, 07:45 AM Post #60 |
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The connector on the left looks like it goes to the AC compressor The connector on the right looks like it goes to the oil pressure sending unit (screws in the block directly above the oil filter) The large vacuum hose coming from a hole in the right side of the body goes to the bottom of the charcoal canister (plastic rectangular box next to master cylinder) Edited by 96Geoman, Aug 22 2011, 07:55 AM.
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. I'm hoping I might be able to talk the price down a bit with an offer of cash and
lol




7:25 PM Jul 10