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| Total noob needing help; '98 manual 3-cyl | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jul 11 2011, 02:55 PM (5,137 Views) | |
| tikigeo | Aug 22 2011, 07:55 AM Post #61 |
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The plastic belt cover warps and moves as it ages. Most of the ones I've seen get eaten up over time and through weather. I plan on simply doing a 2 piece one or putting something in front as a shield and only running a lower. Motor doesn't look too bad overall. Keep up the good work! |
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| GoCanucksGo | Aug 23 2011, 04:05 AM Post #62 |
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I couldn't find any nipples under the charcoal can, I found this one beside it though: ![]() ![]() Is this what you were referring to? If not, what's supposed to go here? And is this the oil pressure sending unit you were referring to? ![]() I'm clearly missing the "screw in" portion lol can I get this piece anywhere or would I have to go through GMC to get it? |
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| GoCanucksGo | Aug 23 2011, 04:09 AM Post #63 |
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thanks Tiki, ya I'm seriously debating about chopping the cover in half, a lot of the other members seem to be doing that and say it makes things so much easier. My biggest concern about that fraying on the bottom though was that when we changed the crank shaft seal, that cover looked brand new, 3 weeks later when I started the rebuild, the cover looked like that, which made me question whether or not I installed it correctly (it's a cover, how many different ways can it be installed?). |
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| 96Geoman | Aug 23 2011, 07:03 AM Post #64 |
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On my car, a 96 3 cylinder, the hose coming out of the right side body goes to a nipple on the bottom of the canister. GM must have changed the emissions on the 98. A hose is clearly missing from the nipple in the picture you posted. Regarding the oil pressure sending unit. I would think you could buy that from a local parts store or GM |
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| GoCanucksGo | Aug 24 2011, 05:13 PM Post #65 |
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Alrighty so I took a closer look at the pictures I took before starting the rebuild and I'm fairly confident that the vacuum line coming from the sidewall does indeed connect to the nipple beside the evap can. Last night I bought a oil pressure sensor, screwed it in, added the oil filter, oil, changed my radiator fluid and put on my alternator belt. Today, we adjusted my clutch cable and fired it up. IT'S ALIVE!!!!! Understandably the car was a little rough sounding the first few seconds but it settled down a little. It is making a ticking noise that has us a little concerned; we stuck a screwdriver to the engine and used it as a listening device and the noise seems to be coming from the block. I know it's too early to tell but any thoughts so far? Also, when i popped open my radiator cap to check the fluid levels (engine was off) the hose going to my heater core started leaking like mad. So definitely a few things that need some tweaking but overall I'm super stoked that the engine is running! I've heard some discrepancies in regards to when I should do my first oil change after a rebuild. The machinist I bought the engine from said 500-800km but I've also heard about 100km just in case something's messed. Can anyone else offer a suggestion? |
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| Spock | Aug 24 2011, 09:08 PM Post #66 |
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Live Long and Prosper.
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The ticking is probably just the hydraulic lifters. They should settle down soon, and if they don't, do't worry about it, the engine is still under warranty Asking when you should change your oil on an automotive forum is like asking 10000 artists what the best color is. The answer to that question is ultimately up to you. I am of the opinion that you can't change your oil enough, especially after a rebuild. I am sure others will chime in with their opinions. Congrats on the transplant/rebuild! |
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| 96Geoman | Aug 24 2011, 09:56 PM Post #67 |
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After a cylinder head has been rebuilt, the lifters will click for a few minutes until filled with oil. Regarding the clutch cable, make sure to leave a little slack at the end. In other words, do not tighten the cable not so there is no play. If you don't leave about an 1/8th to 3/16ths of an inch of play at the end of the cable, you will be replacing that clutch very soon. Ask me how I know lol |
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| GoCanucksGo | Aug 24 2011, 10:14 PM Post #68 |
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Thanks dude! Yeah that's a good point about the oil change thing and I guess I'll drive the car around for 100km or so and then if the ticking hasn't gotten better maybe I'll give the machine shop a call |
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| GoCanucksGo | Aug 24 2011, 10:18 PM Post #69 |
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ah crap there isn't any play at all. Well when we tried tightening it from the clutch arm's original position we had to back the nut off so far that it was barely on the thread (from the clutch cable). So what we did was advance the arm's position by one tooth and tightened the nut accordingly but now when I hit the pedal there is no play at all. I'll keep tinkering with it tomorrow. |
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| Spock | Aug 25 2011, 08:29 PM Post #70 |
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Live Long and Prosper.
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no play at all is a bad thing. If I remember correctly, you need at least 1/4-1/2 inch of play in the pedal. Once you get it really out of adjustment it does take some tinkering to get it back to where you want it. |
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| GoCanucksGo | Aug 26 2011, 01:16 PM Post #71 |
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hey does anyone know what I should be torquing my wheel nuts to? I've read 50 ft/lb on the internet but that seems so low compared to every other vehicle that's torqued to around 70? |
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| Coche Blanco | Aug 26 2011, 01:21 PM Post #72 |
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Troll Certified
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Your lug nuts? 50 is good. |
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| Old Man | Aug 26 2011, 02:39 PM Post #73 |
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my 1991 service manual says 46 ft lbs (for a 91) |
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| Bad Bent | Aug 26 2011, 10:05 PM Post #74 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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...and the '96 FSM says 44 foot pounds (60 Nm) for the larger Geo.
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| GoCanucksGo | Aug 27 2011, 02:51 AM Post #75 |
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ok thanks guys, I torqued it to 55 lol just to be safe. So we adjusted the clutch cable, there's about 1/2" of play and we took Lil' Bandit for his first test run today. As expected, when we fired it up it was smoking a fair bit, the ticking stopped after about 20 minutes of idling and a few turns around the neighbourhood we noticed the smoking hadn't stopped, especially from the muffler. I got down and saw that there was exhaust fumes spitting out like crazy from a connection point between my muffler and the pipes lol. I'm not sure if it's standard practice but basically they had the straight pipe leading into a bigger pipe sticking out of Bandit's muffler and a bracket was used to basically "crimp" the two together. I always thought that connection points were just welded together but then again, all of this is new to me. So I went to canadian tire, bought a muffler and tail pipe sealant repair, which was almost like a wide tape that wrapped around the pipes, and a new bracket that was the same size as the original. I used emery cloth on the pipes and wrapped the sealant around the two pipes and tried to tighten the new bracket on. Unfortunately the tape was a little too thick for the bracket to fit so I had cram it on from a bit of an angle to try and make it fit and tighten up. I thought I had it on pretty solid so I took it to work (I deliver pizzas), halfway through my shift I noticed the pipes had separated and my car sounded like a freaking go-kart! So the good news is that the car is running great, the bad news is you can hear all 55 horses screaming out Lil' Bandit from about a mile away lol. Question: we used a timing light today but we didn't short out those two fuses that you're supposed to (the guide on this forum says to use a paper clip, why do we need to do this?) and we weren't able to get it to the 5" BTDC. After driving it around a few times we kind of just adjusted the distributor by sound (rotated until the idle sounded better) so to be honest I have no idea where it's actually set at. Other than destroying my engine what are the pros and cons to this? It sounds good, and it runs fine but I'm worried that if I'm something like 30" off then my engine will just explode on me. |
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7:25 PM Jul 10