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| Total noob needing help; '98 manual 3-cyl | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jul 11 2011, 02:55 PM (5,134 Views) | |
| GoCanucksGo | Sep 7 2011, 09:33 AM Post #91 |
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which bearings? The oil light pops on after I run the car for a few minutes and it just stays on. But yesterday the light was on when I went to school and it was initially off when I left the school but turned back on again after a few minutes. So I need a new oil pump? |
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| Mr. Hand | Sep 7 2011, 10:17 AM Post #92 |
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can anyone explain how the oil pump works? i always wondered, cause when you look at it, you wonder, how the heck does it work? |
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| starscream5000 | Sep 7 2011, 10:58 AM Post #93 |
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Got 70 MPG?
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It could be either rod bearings or main bearings, but most likely it's the mains as they are the ones that have the galley in them from the factory. |
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| GoCanucksGo | Sep 9 2011, 01:26 PM Post #94 |
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ok so I took the car to the machine shop that I bought the rebuilt engine from, they said the oil pump is brand new so it shouldn't be a problem and the engine wasn't making any excessive noise so oil was definitely being pumped to the lifters. After playing around with it the guy thinks it has to be a faulty oil pressure sensor so I got a new one and put it in yesterday, so far the light hasn't come back on but after the rebuild the light didn't come on for 2 weeks so we'll see how it goes for the next little while. |
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| idmetro | Sep 9 2011, 03:08 PM Post #95 |
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The way to be confident would be to check the oil pressure with an actual oil pressure gauge (rather than an |
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| GoCanucksGo | Sep 9 2011, 05:09 PM Post #96 |
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Any idea on what the ideal range is for oil pressure? |
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| starscream5000 | Sep 9 2011, 07:59 PM Post #97 |
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Got 70 MPG?
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It's 46.9--61.1 psi at 4000 RPMs when the oil is hot. It takes a long time for the oil to get to full temp. About 20-30 minutes of driving. |
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| GoCanucksGo | Sep 12 2011, 11:00 PM Post #98 |
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okkk so it's been exactly 4 days and the idiot light has popped on again. I am wondering if maybe there's a leak in the system somewhere that is contributing to it? I don't have an oil gauge so I can't say for sure whether or not I'm getting correct psi, but I'm finding some slight oil leaks on my oil pan which I'm attributing to an incorrect gasket, which has been mentioned in another thread. Also my distributor has a slight oil leak but I've changed the O ring twice and put on a brand new gasket when I did the rebuild. It's weird it seems to be coming from the bottom of the distributor but inside the cap is bone dry. Is it possible that my distributor has like a hairline crack in it? Would these issues contribute to the oil light turning on? |
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| starscream5000 | Sep 13 2011, 07:47 AM Post #99 |
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Got 70 MPG?
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No. There isn't direct oil pressure on any of the seals in this car. If there were, we'd all be pissing oil. Go get a real oil pressure gauge and hook it up to the car. |
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| Bad Bent | Sep 13 2011, 10:02 AM Post #100 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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My FSM says the level must be full, fresh clear oil, no leaks. The gauge is screwed into the oil sensor hole near the oil filter and the reading is at 3,000 rpm. You know the correct oil pan gasket is none. Use RTV. You are sure you have oil in the car... is the dip stick tube securely connected and seated in the block? That sucker even has an o-ring that could be leaking. If that is sealed then you can put a balloon over the dip stick tube and start the engine. If the balloon inflates then you are producing pressure that could blow a seal. Check/replace the PCV valve.
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| starscream5000 | Sep 13 2011, 11:36 AM Post #101 |
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Got 70 MPG?
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Nice advice there, I never would have thought of something like that to test a clogged PCV valve
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| Coche Blanco | Sep 13 2011, 04:14 PM Post #102 |
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Troll Certified
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Gotta credit mwebb to that one.
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| Bad Bent | Sep 14 2011, 12:48 AM Post #103 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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I had heard that else where but didn't remember who to credit on the forum. Thanks Coche Blanco. |
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