Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Posted ImageWelcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.

You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Join our community!




Username:   Password:
Add Reply
How to Clean a Geo Metro G10 Engine Valve Cover; Rivet Delete - Lots of Pictures
Topic Started: Aug 9 2011, 01:12 AM (2,515 Views)
Geo Glenn
Member Avatar
What's in your engine?

This is a valve cover. It may or not be typical. This one is dirty on the outside. There are signs of oil leakage at the main cover seal, the seal washers, and the oil filler.

Posted Image

Notice the deposits in the breather tube.

Posted Image

Main seal cover oil leak by the camshaft gear.

Posted Image

Main seal cover oil leak by the distributor housing.

Posted Image

Inside the valve cover.

Posted Image

I put the valve cover in a tub of Purple Power overnight, rinsed with water to remove most of the mess. What I’m going to do next is remove the baffle to clean what’s left in the top of the valve cover. There are 4 attach points. These were soft aluminum points that were cast into the housing, riveted over during production. I center punched the 4 riveted areas, then started drilling with a 3/16” drill bit.

Posted Image

Next, I stepped up to a 17/64” drill bit, and continued just shy of drilling into the baffle.

Posted Image

Next, I used a 19/64” drill bit to remove what was left of the riveted on material. Notice, I did not drill into the steel baffle. For reference, the holes in the baffle are 9/32”. I gently pried the baffle away from the valve cover casting. There is some sealant, but it yields rather easily.

Posted Image

I plan to clean the cover casting and baffle in a glass bead blast cabinet. The baffle is assembled using 3 parts, spot welded together, leaving several gaps which could retain the blast media.

Posted Image

I masked these areas, and smeared in some JB Weld. (JB Kwik is not recommended.) This will take several hours to cure.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

To reattach the baffle to the valve cover casting, I used 6mm x 1.0 threaded fasteners. The center two holes are tapped, and the outer holes are drilled through the top of the casting. I used a 5.1 mm drill bit for tapping the 6mm threaded fastener holes. I used a piece of tape to mark 14 mm on the 5.1 mm drill bit as a depth reference.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

The thru holes were enlarged from 5.1 mm to 5.8 mm, and slightly countersunk.

Posted Image

Posted Image

I then tapped the two center holes with a 6mm x 1.0 tap, and cleaned out the other 6mm x 1.0 threaded fastener holes in the casting. I installed threaded fasteners in the holes to prevent glass bead blast media from accumulating in there.

Posted Image

Posted Image

On a side note, I was able to clean and salvage the original 1995 valve cover gasket by bead blasting it. More on this later.

Posted Image

The oil cap got run through the glass bead blast cabinet.

Posted Image

Posted Image

It had that glass bead blasted look, so, out with the paste wax. I applied 3 coats with a tooth brush and Q-Tips, and then wiped off the excess.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Meanwhile, the JB Weld has cured, and the baffle gets its turn in the glass bead blast cabinet. The irregular color is due to application of a chromic acid solution after the blasting process.

Posted Image

Posted Image

The valve cover casting made it into the bead blast cabinet and the chem treat bucket. The baffle is masked for application of sealant. The 6mm screws that I used are available at any hardware store. The nuts are a couple of extra acorn nuts used to hold on the valve cover. I’ll edit and add the length of the fasteners when I can find my other set. The 2 in the middle are shorter than the 2 used on the ends.

Posted Image

By the way, the original sealant will not come off by glass bead blasting. It has to be scrapped off. I used “GMS” around the edge of the baffle. This is available at your local friendly GM dealer for about $11 per tube. It also works great for oil pan installations. I used red Loctite on the threaded fasteners holding the baffle to the valve cover casting.

Posted Image

A little bit of sealant around the edge of the baffle is all that is required.

Posted Image

I also put a little bit of sealant in the 2 countersunk areas on the top of the valve cover casting.

Posted Image

After installing the threaded fasteners, the sealant will extrude slightly around the edge of the baffle, indicating adequate application. Let the sealant cure overnight.

Posted Image

There is a slight extrusion of sealant around the fasteners on the top of the valve cover, also.

Posted Image

The valve cover gasket got a very light coat of EZ-Turn Fuel Lube.

Posted Image

Once the valve cover gasket is installed, tighten the valve cover nuts, without installing the seal washers, to force the gasket into the groove, and extrude any excess Fuel Lube. Remove the valve cover and wipe the excess Fuel Lube with a rag.

Posted Image

Apply your favorite flavor of paint.

Posted Image

A little bit of Fuel Lube on the seal washers, install the acorn nuts, and have a nice day!

Posted Image

Posted Image

Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Jezza
Member Avatar
Boost Junkie

Very nice Geo Glenn!! Wish I could do this as well :(
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
wizard93
Member Avatar


Nice attention to detail, man. That way much more work than I'd be willing to spend on a valve cover.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Scoobs
Member Avatar
Decal Vendor

needs to be lime green XD
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
bogs
Member Avatar
Duct tape heals all wounds

Very nice, and apparently after completing it, you found the fountain of youth ! :lol
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
dayle1960
Member Avatar
Fastest Hampster EVER

Guys, if you could only see this valve cover in person. I got the privilege of seeing one of GG's valve covers. It is better than what appears in pictures. Sure the outer portion looks nice, its the inside that made my eyes go wide. His rivet delete was the first time I witnessed something like that. It was very nice, so much so I would go so far to say it might be a pleasant upgrade. Don't think it would help power or MPG but it sure looks nice.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Geo Glenn
Member Avatar
What's in your engine?

This valve cover came clean by soaking it for a week in Purple Power. I spent a little extra time smoothing the oil fill hole with a file, and sanding it smooth.

I filed the ridges smooth on the top for a nice painting surface.

Rustoleum Hammered Black with Gloss Hunter Green accents.

*****

Posted Image
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
geo-miami
Member Avatar
Member
[ *  *  * ]
Great job !!! I will try it.
:thumb
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
mwebb
Member Avatar
FOG

looks neat ...
but if the area inside the baffle has flow , i would not screw with it

if you are are
using the correct non dogshnit oils
no deposits will form in that area

AND GG is using an oil that is very good , perhaps the very best , at preventing deposits from forming

....
in any event
outstanding attention to detail.

purple power should not be confused with Royal Purple oils
Royal Purple oils have no ratings and no specifications listed on the packaging -
including no dexos1 specification
therefore
those oils should never be used in any Geo Metro at any time as they do not meet minimum requirements currently in place as per the manufacturer
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
rmcelwee
Member Avatar


Nice write-up!
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
idmetro
Member Avatar


VERY nice!
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
2000Firefly1.3L
Member Avatar


Scoobs
Aug 9 2011, 10:02 AM
needs to be lime green XD
i'm paiting my engine lime green. you would like it. :drool
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Tubablake
Member Avatar
Elite Member
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
Geo Glenn
Apr 2 2012, 07:01 PM
This valve cover came clean by soaking it for a week in Purple Power. I spent a little extra time smoothing the oil fill hole with a file, and sanding it smooth.

I filed the ridges smooth on the top for a nice painting surface.

Rustoleum Hammered Black with Gloss Hunter Green accents.

*****

Posted Image
How did you do the green accents??
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Geo Glenn
Member Avatar
What's in your engine?

Tubablake
Oct 29 2012, 10:08 PM
How did you do the green accents??
With a very small paint brush . . . B-)

Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
« Previous Topic · Guides/How to · Next Topic »
Add Reply