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|How to Clean a Geo Metro G10 Engine Valve Cover; Rivet Delete - Lots of Pictures|
|Tweet Topic Started: Aug 9 2011, 01:12 AM (2,818 Views)|
|Geo Glenn||Aug 9 2011, 01:12 AM Post #1|
What's in your engine?
This is a valve cover. It may or not be typical. This one is dirty on the outside. There are signs of oil leakage at the main cover seal, the seal washers, and the oil filler.
Notice the deposits in the breather tube.
Main seal cover oil leak by the camshaft gear.
Main seal cover oil leak by the distributor housing.
Inside the valve cover.
I put the valve cover in a tub of Purple Power overnight, rinsed with water to remove most of the mess. What I’m going to do next is remove the baffle to clean what’s left in the top of the valve cover. There are 4 attach points. These were soft aluminum points that were cast into the housing, riveted over during production. I center punched the 4 riveted areas, then started drilling with a 3/16” drill bit.
Next, I stepped up to a 17/64” drill bit, and continued just shy of drilling into the baffle.
Next, I used a 19/64” drill bit to remove what was left of the riveted on material. Notice, I did not drill into the steel baffle. For reference, the holes in the baffle are 9/32”. I gently pried the baffle away from the valve cover casting. There is some sealant, but it yields rather easily.
I plan to clean the cover casting and baffle in a glass bead blast cabinet. The baffle is assembled using 3 parts, spot welded together, leaving several gaps which could retain the blast media.
I masked these areas, and smeared in some JB Weld. (JB Kwik is not recommended.) This will take several hours to cure.
To reattach the baffle to the valve cover casting, I used 6mm x 1.0 threaded fasteners. The center two holes are tapped, and the outer holes are drilled through the top of the casting. I used a 5.1 mm drill bit for tapping the 6mm threaded fastener holes. I used a piece of tape to mark 14 mm on the 5.1 mm drill bit as a depth reference.
The thru holes were enlarged from 5.1 mm to 5.8 mm, and slightly countersunk.
I then tapped the two center holes with a 6mm x 1.0 tap, and cleaned out the other 6mm x 1.0 threaded fastener holes in the casting. I installed threaded fasteners in the holes to prevent glass bead blast media from accumulating in there.
On a side note, I was able to clean and salvage the original 1995 valve cover gasket by bead blasting it. More on this later.
The oil cap got run through the glass bead blast cabinet.
It had that glass bead blasted look, so, out with the paste wax. I applied 3 coats with a tooth brush and Q-Tips, and then wiped off the excess.
Meanwhile, the JB Weld has cured, and the baffle gets its turn in the glass bead blast cabinet. The irregular color is due to application of a chromic acid solution after the blasting process.
The valve cover casting made it into the bead blast cabinet and the chem treat bucket. The baffle is masked for application of sealant. The 6mm screws that I used are available at any hardware store. The nuts are a couple of extra acorn nuts used to hold on the valve cover. I’ll edit and add the length of the fasteners when I can find my other set. The 2 in the middle are shorter than the 2 used on the ends.
By the way, the original sealant will not come off by glass bead blasting. It has to be scrapped off. I used “GMS” around the edge of the baffle. This is available at your local friendly GM dealer for about $11 per tube. It also works great for oil pan installations. I used red Loctite on the threaded fasteners holding the baffle to the valve cover casting.
A little bit of sealant around the edge of the baffle is all that is required.
I also put a little bit of sealant in the 2 countersunk areas on the top of the valve cover casting.
After installing the threaded fasteners, the sealant will extrude slightly around the edge of the baffle, indicating adequate application. Let the sealant cure overnight.
There is a slight extrusion of sealant around the fasteners on the top of the valve cover, also.
The valve cover gasket got a very light coat of EZ-Turn Fuel Lube.
Once the valve cover gasket is installed, tighten the valve cover nuts, without installing the seal washers, to force the gasket into the groove, and extrude any excess Fuel Lube. Remove the valve cover and wipe the excess Fuel Lube with a rag.
Apply your favorite flavor of paint.
A little bit of Fuel Lube on the seal washers, install the acorn nuts, and have a nice day!
|Jezza||Aug 9 2011, 06:37 AM Post #2|
|Very nice Geo Glenn!! Wish I could do this as well|
|wizard93||Aug 9 2011, 07:47 AM Post #3|
||Nice attention to detail, man. That way much more work than I'd be willing to spend on a valve cover.|
|Scoobs||Aug 9 2011, 10:02 AM Post #4|
|needs to be lime green XD|
|bogs||Aug 9 2011, 10:56 AM Post #5|
Duct tape heals all wounds
|Very nice, and apparently after completing it, you found the fountain of youth !|
|dayle1960||Aug 9 2011, 12:38 PM Post #6|
Fastest Hampster EVER
|Guys, if you could only see this valve cover in person. I got the privilege of seeing one of GG's valve covers. It is better than what appears in pictures. Sure the outer portion looks nice, its the inside that made my eyes go wide. His rivet delete was the first time I witnessed something like that. It was very nice, so much so I would go so far to say it might be a pleasant upgrade. Don't think it would help power or MPG but it sure looks nice.|
|Geo Glenn||Apr 2 2012, 07:01 PM Post #7|
What's in your engine?
This valve cover came clean by soaking it for a week in Purple Power. I spent a little extra time smoothing the oil fill hole with a file, and sanding it smooth.
I filed the ridges smooth on the top for a nice painting surface.
Rustoleum Hammered Black with Gloss Hunter Green accents.
|geo-miami||Apr 2 2012, 08:27 PM Post #8|
Great job !!! I will try it.
|mwebb||Oct 6 2012, 10:59 PM Post #9|
looks neat ...
but if the area inside the baffle has flow , i would not screw with it
if you are are
using the correct non dogshnit oils
no deposits will form in that area
AND GG is using an oil that is very good , perhaps the very best , at preventing deposits from forming
in any event
outstanding attention to detail.
purple power should not be confused with Royal Purple oils
Royal Purple oils have no ratings and no specifications listed on the packaging -
including no dexos1 specification
those oils should never be used in any Geo Metro at any time as they do not meet minimum requirements currently in place as per the manufacturer
|rmcelwee||Oct 7 2012, 04:24 AM Post #10|
|idmetro||Oct 7 2012, 07:34 AM Post #11|
|2000Firefly1.3L||Oct 17 2012, 07:51 PM Post #12|
i'm paiting my engine lime green. you would like it.
|Tubablake||Oct 29 2012, 10:08 PM Post #13|
How did you do the green accents??
|Geo Glenn||Nov 1 2012, 01:01 AM Post #14|
What's in your engine?
With a very small paint brush . . .
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