Welcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features: Join our community! |
- Pages:
- 1
- 2
| Car Died and Now won't start FI fuse Blown | |
|---|---|
| Tweet Topic Started: Aug 12 2011, 08:55 AM (5,629 Views) | |
| Switchblade8588 | Aug 19 2011, 02:10 PM Post #16 |
|
Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Well got my rebuilt injector in today and plan on installing it tomm the thing is the injector looks somewhat different the plastic piece on the top is black instead of green but all the numbers on it are the same but what I am wondering about is the stock injector has 2 screens and the new(rebuilt) injector only has one screen and some plastic. It's hard to explain so I took a picture. The stock injector is on the Left and the Rebuilt injector is on the right ![]() My question is do you think it will work or did they send me the wrong injector? |
![]() |
|
| Johnny Mullet | Aug 19 2011, 08:39 PM Post #17 |
|
Fear the Mullet
![]()
|
It should work. Rebuilders source parts from different places than OEM so some visual differences may be evident. |
![]() |
|
| Switchblade8588 | Aug 20 2011, 12:01 PM Post #18 |
|
Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Well got the new injector in today and it started and stayed running for the first time but isrunning really bad and I ended up blowing another 15amp FI fuse. Replaced the fuse with a 20amp and cleaned all my grounds I could find but ended up blow that fuse to, checked the wires running from my fuel pump and from the injector but couldn't find any problems there replaced the fuse with a 30 hoping to heat up or just melt the wires if it's shorting but it didn't blow the 30 amp fuse. I pulled the tank again and checked the wires on the tank and the seem fine but I did find that the copper line I replaced one of the steal lines for was plugged up pretty good so I pulled it off and bought 5 feet of rubber line on my way home. So it's running now just not good and it's blowing the FI fuse still. |
![]() |
|
| Switchblade8588 | Aug 22 2011, 01:31 PM Post #19 |
|
Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
well replaced the fuel line today and I think that did it the car sounds and runs normal again, also drove it around for about 10 minutes and didn't blow an FI fuse not sure what was causing that but the copper fuel line was plugged and replacing it with a rubber one seems to fix the running issues. |
![]() |
|
| Switchblade8588 | Aug 26 2011, 01:35 PM Post #20 |
|
Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Another update... Been driving the car with no problems for a few days and I went to get in it this morning and nothing... Popped the hood and the 20 amp FI fuse was blown again so I put in the 30amp fuse and it start but after only 5 mins I pulled the 30 amp fuse and it was very hot so something is still wrong i'm just not sure what. |
![]() |
|
| Coche Blanco | Aug 26 2011, 02:03 PM Post #21 |
|
Troll Certified
![]()
|
A short or ground, or something causing excessive draw on the wire. |
![]() |
|
| Bad Bent | Aug 26 2011, 09:42 PM Post #22 |
|
Facetious Educated Donkey
![]()
|
To be simple and redundant, you need to trace the wires on the F1 fuse and find the problem. You may even have to take the cover off the wire and inspect every inch of the wire(s). You may need to buy a new one from a junk yard. http://swift.crime.one.pl/pliki/schematy/ should have a wiring diagram for your '94. A quick look at my Chilton diagrams shows the F1 connected to the F1 relay and then the Fuel Pump Resistor, ECM, EGR valve, Idle Speed Control Valve and Fuel Pump Relay, if your car is so equipped. And if you replaced fuel line and it ran better then look at wires to the Fuel Pump Resistor and Relay and their grounds. |
![]() |
|
| Switchblade8588 | Aug 27 2011, 08:18 PM Post #23 |
|
Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
I guess my only problem with say a broke wire is that if it's taking over 20 amps you would think at the point were the wire is broke it would melt the casing and I have not been able to see anything yet. I'm probably going to pull the fuse box under the hood and follow the wires back and see if I fund anything but I would think if it's pulling over 20 amps I should be able to see it pretty easy. |
![]() |
|
| Switchblade8588 | Sep 9 2011, 06:54 PM Post #24 |
|
Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
You were right it was a short but it wasn't a wire as I checked them all, what I ended up doing was replacing the fuse with a copper wire and then when it did acted up I smelt something burn so I looked over all the wires again and nothing....So I thought maybe the pump itself was bad from the factory so I pulled the tank and pump and found that on the inside of the tank lid the plastic had melted around where the metal/bolt thing goes the lid. So with out the plastic the pump was grounding out. Just want to say thanks to everyone for the help. |
![]() |
|
| Stiffchezze | Sep 9 2011, 07:22 PM Post #25 |
|
Sir Metrologist
![]()
|
Short inside the tank. And you jumped the fuse! SCARY! Pics! we need pics!
|
![]() |
|
| Bad Bent | Sep 10 2011, 02:45 PM Post #26 |
|
Facetious Educated Donkey
![]()
|
I'm glad you got it done Switchblade8588 Yeah, not recommend is hardwiring the fuse and cause a catastrophic failure. Good thing it wasn't a catastrophe .
|
![]() |
|
| 1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous) | |
| « Previous Topic · Engine Tech & Diagnostics · Next Topic » |
- Pages:
- 1
- 2


Welcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.


![]](http://z3.ifrm.com/static/1/pip_r.png)








Pics! we need pics!
.
7:25 PM Jul 10