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2001 A/C Idler Pulley
Topic Started: Aug 12 2011, 05:00 PM (1,681 Views)
Third Gear
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I'm just wondering if anyone has replaced this pulley on these cars with no power steering. I would like to replace mine, but the dealer said it is over $200 bucks, yes that's the correct part. I was expecting $20-$40 like most idlers/tensioners.

So are people just heading to the junkyard for a nicer one or custom fitting something similar? Thanks.
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JellyBeanDriver
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There's a bearing inside it that you can replace separately. Search for the thread on here (though I have yet to confirm anyone has done it). Bearing is less than $10 on Ebay shipped.
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chris_7352
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Heres the thread on the bearing info.

http://geometroforum.com/topic/4117466/1/#new

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Woodie
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I just did this. Bearing cost me $15 delivered, paid the local transmission shop $20 to press it in.
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Third Gear
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Thanks, I found the guy on eBay selling the bearing and confirmed its application. It's National Bearing 204F - which also happens to be the rear wheel bearing. Looks like I will pick up a rear wheel bearing and have at it.
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Third Gear
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I'm probably not going to order it online. I see that Autozone has a Timken 204F bearing in stock. I was able to separate the bearing from both pieces of the pulley so, I will take the bearing with me to make sure it's the same.
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bogs
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Duct tape heals all wounds

Let us know how it works out, preferably with pictures of the whole process :)
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Third Gear
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I would be glad to post some pictures. Actually the 204F is the wrong bearing. Maybe some other models use it. I missed the post in the other thread by Geo Glenn. The correct bearing is a 6006 series bearing with double rubber seals. The dimensions are 30x55x13 metric. I'm glad I didn't waste my time buying the wrong bearing online. As soon as I get the bearing in I will report back.
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Third Gear
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Okay, here is a little write up. It's pretty easy if you have vice and a little bit of problem solving skills.


Here is your brand new 6006 2RS (2 rubber seals) bearing and your A/C pulley/tensioner.
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This is one way to press in the new bearing. Make sure the bearing and the inside of the pulley are clean. I like putting a super thin coating of axle grease on whatever I'm pressing the bearing into to help it go in easier.
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This is another way using an axle nut socket.
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This is another option using a large metal pipe.
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I found that the best way for this application was to use the axle nut socket or the piece of bar stock. The pipe I had wasn't 100% square, so the bearing didn't want to move easily. However, it worked very well as a last step to make sure the bearing was flush with the inside surface of the pulley. Try not to press on the seals. Try to press on the metal parts of the bearing.

Okay, now you are ready for the inner piece that is the dustcover and mounting point for the pulley/tensioner. Mine had a couple nicks on the surface that goes into the inner bearing. Just clean it up with super fine sand paper or crocus cloth, clean it, then you are ready to go.
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The bar stock worked very well here and this will press in easier than the bearing going into the pulley. Don't go too crazy with the press, you don't want to disturb your perfectly seated bearing.
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Wow! This is all done. Your pulley has a new bearing that is nice, smooth, and doesn't make any noise. You will probably get nicks on the pulley like I did. Don't worry, get some sand paper and smooth out everything. The most important area is where the belt rides. Anywhere else is just cosmetic.
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So how did I get this out? Well I already took it apart way before I got the bearing for it. This is an example with my new bearing already put in.

Open up your vice and have the pulley supported with the edges of the jaws to give the dustcover/mount room to move. Find a socket that is slightly smaller than the inner bearing diameter (and probably one you don't mind damaging) and have at it with large hammer. Don't worry it will come out, just keep hitting it.
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To press out the bearing find something slightly smaller than bearing - like a pipe or socket, put the pulley in your vice with two thick pieces of metal parallel to each other opposite the side you are pressing the pipe/socket into the bearing. Position the metal (i used bar stock about 1 inch thick) to support the pulley but allow enough room for the bearing to get pressed out. That's it.

There are many other ways to do this, this is one way. I hope this helps you guys out if you aren't sure how to take this thing apart. :cheers
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JellyBeanDriver
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Yay, glad someone finally did this. BTW, when you are pressing the inner spacer back in, are you supporting the inner race of the bearing? I couldn't tell if the jaws of your vise were in contact with the inner race or not.
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Third Gear
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The inner spacer/dust cover went in pretty easy so I didn't see a need to support the bearing. It wouldn't hurt though.
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cheapwheels
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In case anyone is interested, I found an ideal replacement a/c tensioner pulley for my 2001 Chevy Metro. I had recently replaced the a/c compressor only because the clutch went bad but I failed to sufficiently tighten or locktite the nut that holds the idler pulley on after adjusting belt tension. A/C worked great but 2,000 miles later the pulley just spit off the car and got lost. I googled '12mm ac pulley' and a link came up to All OEM Parts, Inc. A pulley listed as standard on a 2000-2006 Nissan Sentra was listed. It's an 83mm steel pulley with a 12mm bushing insert for the bearing. Cost was about 33 bucks so I took a chance and ordered it. Surprise! It fit and works absolutely perfectly straight out of the box so I thought I'd share that info. Box says AC Delco # 36142, GM # 19160810

Edited by cheapwheels, Sep 29 2011, 01:40 PM.
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bigdan
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cheapwheels
Sep 29 2011, 01:35 PM
In case anyone is interested, I found an ideal replacement a/c tensioner pulley for my 2001 Chevy Metro. I had recently replaced the a/c compressor only because the clutch went bad but I failed to sufficiently tighten or locktite the nut that holds the idler pulley on after adjusting belt tension. A/C worked great but 2,000 miles later the pulley just spit off the car and got lost. I googled '12mm ac pulley' and a link came up to All OEM Parts, Inc. A pulley listed as standard on a 2000-2006 Nissan Sentra was listed. It's an 83mm steel pulley with a 12mm bushing insert for the bearing. Cost was about 33 bucks so I took a chance and ordered it. Surprise! It fit and works absolutely perfectly straight out of the box so I thought I'd share that info. Box says AC Delco # 36142, GM # 19160810

I'm so glad you shared that, I joined this forum to answer that very question. I couldn't believe all the part stores didn't even list a pulley as not available, they just didn't show one at all. I took your info and just bought a pulley kit for a 2000 Nissan Sentra and It worked perfectly. The kit was a Gates DriveAlign Part Number: 36142. Thanks again for your research.
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bigdan
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Oh and it was about $34 at Orielly Auto Parts
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jp_irons
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I appreciate all the information. I just bought a 2001 Chevy Metro and I need to find an A/C Idler Pulley. Will the 2000 Nissan Sentra pulley kit work properly for the A/C Idler Pulley that I am looking for? Again, the information posted on the forum has been a huge help.
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