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Going to rebuild my 3cyl
Topic Started: Aug 28 2011, 10:02 PM (1,740 Views)
hanksgeo
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Coche Blanco
Aug 29 2011, 01:43 PM
Amazon.com

http://www.amazon.com/Research-FLEX-HONE-Cylinder-Abrasive-Diameter/dp/B002XUL0X6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1314643365&sr=8-1

You can buy that one, and I think they make a 74mm one too, but they both do fine.
I found the same one on ebay, a 180 grit though it was a bit cheaper, the Amazon one said expect 1-3 months for them to ship it, I need it now though or very soon.

My last questions are this is the head and rebuild kit I was leaning towards, Glenn said to go with this head I am assuming

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Geo-Metro-Suzuki-rebuilt-cylinder-head-1-0-1-0L-w-cam-/110736044119?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c861f057#ht_500wt_1182

But which kit should I go with?

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=geo+metro+rebuild+kit&_sacat=0&LH_Price=75..210%40c&_dmpt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=geo+metro+head&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313

I may just end up taking his advice and picking some of the parts up off rockauto, should I be worried about the main bearings at all? I was planning on rebuilding it with it still in the car...
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Coche Blanco
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My main and rod bearings were "useable" at 251k miles...take that for what it's worth.

I bought that head, STD rings, a hone, and a top end gasket set to rebuild mine.

About 80 dollars in parts that can't be reused, the 200 dollar head and the 35 dollar hone can be reused.
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hanksgeo
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Thanks for all your help just bought the head and the rebuild parts Ill keep everyone posted I guess

Cheers
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Coche Blanco
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What did the total come to? Parts list plz. :D
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hanksgeo
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Sorry bought the lag coche, came out to 230 I bought the kit off ebay, head was 200, Im replacing the water pump as well figured why not im already there lol.
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bkgeig
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I "rebuilt" my 1.0 by having the head rebuilt locally ($190 as I recall) and replacing the rings. Compression was around 150 I think. I didn't remove the crank. I used the standard honing tool Autozone rents. It worked fine. I cleaned the pistons following Phil's recommendation on Teamswift. I replaced the head bolts and had to retorque them after a couple of weeks. Now has about 205 compression on all cylinders, last I checked. Mileage still isn't up to snuff, but I need to do some more work on the emissions stuff.

One recommendation: while you have the intake off, soak it in Simple Green in a cheap aluminum pan (I got one at the grocery store for a few bucks). You won't believe how much stuff comes out of the EGR passages. I had previously cleaned the EGR with the standard wire on a drill method and it was still full of gunk. It helps to remove the freeze plug in the back to access the end of the EGR passage. I replaced the freeze plug with a metal plug from the hardware store. If you're having issues with CA smog, you might also replace the EGR itself, or at least check it, while you're at it.

Good luck. - Brian

Edit: I just saw you have a '97. My comments on the EGR might not apply.
Edited by bkgeig, Sep 9 2011, 05:08 PM.
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wizard93
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Let us know how that rebuild kit works out for you, Hank. I'm keeping my eye on that same kit.
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hanksgeo
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Well im about to do the water pump, is there any sort of sealant i should get?
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Tim Keith


Do a compression check before you tear it down. The motor might have stuck oil rings.

Try some GM top engine cleaner or equivalent. Many of these Metros were driven
only for short stop-and-go trips and have carboned oil rings. This is a common
"grandma" maintenance on many vehicles. Change the oil after cleaning. You
might be surprised at the difference this maintenance can make, and if it doesn't
help, then at least you'll know there is wear that might justify tearing it down.

Burning a quart over 1,000 miles is not extreme. What color are the spark
plugs ? The motor can leak oil and not leave a trace.



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