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| won't start when hot | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Aug 31 2011, 09:09 AM (4,685 Views) | |
| Tim Keith | Aug 31 2011, 09:09 AM Post #1 |
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This morning my '96 G10 5 speed did not restart when I stopped at a convenience store after driving 60 miles. After five minutes cooling down the motor restarted and ran smoothly. What could be causing this? It has always started easily. It has 130,000 miles. Tim |
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| Memphis metro | Aug 31 2011, 09:17 AM Post #2 |
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Need more details. Is the starter turning the engine over but the engine is not cranking or is the starter not even turning the engine over? If the starter is turning the engine over but the engine is not starting, it could be a defective coil or your fuel pump failing. Old as these cars are, I would lean towards the fuel pump. |
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| Tim Keith | Aug 31 2011, 01:59 PM Post #3 |
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The starter cranks fine. After 60 miles of early morning non stop driving I made a five minute stop at a convenience store. When I attempted to start it, the motor fired, ran briefly long enough to back out of the parking space, then the motor stumbled and died. I tried to start and got a cough or two, then nothing but cranking noises. To preserve the battery I decided to wait for it to cool a little. After sitting for five minutes it started right up, but I only had to complete another 200 yards to reach my destination. I have driven this '96 G10 five speed Metro almost 30,000 miles over the last 8 months without any problems. No check engine lights. It has a scanguage, but no faults are set. Tim |
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| Tim Keith | Aug 31 2011, 05:44 PM Post #4 |
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Now the motor cranks but won't start when cold. I'm 60 miles from tools. |
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| Memphis metro | Aug 31 2011, 05:50 PM Post #5 |
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Remove air filter and pour about a 2 Liter cap full of gas in the tbi and see if it will start. |
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| Tim Keith | Aug 31 2011, 10:35 PM Post #6 |
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With starting fluid sprayed down the throttle body the G10 starts and runs. The motor will then keep running as long as the RPMs are kept high, but won't idle unless more starting fluid is sprayed. I had been cruising smoothy at 65 MPH until this occurred with no advance funky behavior. On this car there is no oil in the bottom of the oil cleaner as in my other Metros. I have been getting 51 MPG. I have a complete throttle body with all sensors at my home, so I'll change this and that until I find the problem. What chance is the fuel pumping failing ? Not likely as the motor keeps running at 4,000 RPM, right ? |
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| Memphis metro | Aug 31 2011, 10:50 PM Post #7 |
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Harbor freight has onsale a fuel pressure tester. Very simple to test your car with. Just from what I have seen you say I would say it will be your fuel pump but then I have not seen your car in person, only based on what you say. http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-injection-pump-tester-92699.html While you were driving, did the check engine light come on? |
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| Shinrin | Sep 1 2011, 12:41 AM Post #8 |
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Could be low pressure from a stopped up hose or filter. It won't idle low but when the throttle is higher and it takes more gas, enough is forced out to keep it going. Just ideas. |
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| Woodie | Sep 1 2011, 06:38 AM Post #9 |
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Injector is going bad. |
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| Tim Keith | Sep 1 2011, 09:07 AM Post #10 |
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I think the timing belt jumped a tooth or two. After I sprayed the throttle body the car started but wouldn't idle, I had to keep the RPMs high. The timing belt was replaced less than 30K miles ago. After getting it to run with the spray I noticed water dripping from the bottom of the timing cover. The water pump is leaking. The water drips behind the timing cover and lubricates the belt so that it can slip. This is a fairly common scenario on many makes of cars. I'd smelled antifreeze but I thought the reservoir tank was overflowing as its been so hot, more than 100F for 60 straight days. The radiator is full of water, each morning for the past week I'd been adding a couple ounces of water to the reservoir. I'm pretty sure its the timing belt. |
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| Memphis metro | Sep 1 2011, 09:16 AM Post #11 |
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Run your timing mark up to the valve cover notch and look at the timing tab and see if your mark is lined up to your mark on your timing cover tab. Antifreeze will make a belt somewhat slip on a slick pulley but its not likely to make the cogged timing belt slip. I am sticking with fuel pump. |
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| aagoodguy2002 | Sep 1 2011, 03:42 PM Post #12 |
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I'am having the same problem with my 2000 Geo 1.0. Changed all , new wires, plugs, coil, iat, ignition sensor, cts, distributor, cap & rotor, and same problem. Starts cold, runs great, won't start hot, and must wait 2 hours, and will then start. The last thing is the computer and fuel pump. Any help, thanks in advance. AJ |
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| Tim Keith | Sep 1 2011, 08:16 PM Post #13 |
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At lunch I got a Harbor Freight fuel injection pump pressure tester (now the 3rd one of these that I own). The reading is ~60 pounds during cranking of the G10 ( looking through the windshield the pressure may be slightly different than 60 but very close ). The needle seemed to briefly spike slightly upward when I released the key. |
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| Memphis metro | Sep 1 2011, 08:40 PM Post #14 |
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60 psi is too high. Possible fuel pressure regulator. Maybe your injector needs cleaning. It may very well help to pull the spark plugs and see what they look like to aid in what is going on. I went to harbor frieght today as well looking around. I seen the tester I showed you onsale for 16 dollars. |
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| Tim Keith | Sep 1 2011, 09:23 PM Post #15 |
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Yeh, it was on sale. Some buy these H/F testers and use them for other purposes. The store also had an $85 fuel injection tester but don't know what that offered. What is normal fuel pressure? I'm replacing the water pump as it definitely is bad. Might be something else too, but its easy to swap that pump. This has been a great running '96 that gets 51 MPG. I've got all sorts of parts for this car, eg the entire throttle body as I have another '96 G10 five speed that needs some work after 340,000 miles. The high miles car only got 47 MPG as the compression is down to 145 lbs. Auto parts stores want $200 for a new injector. |
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