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| 87 Chevy Sprint Turbo; what a blast | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Aug 31 2011, 09:22 PM (20,439 Views) | |
| Memphis metro | Sep 4 2011, 12:18 PM Post #31 |
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Welcome to the forum. Does the tank have any gas in it? Smack the bottom of the tank with a hammer. Often when a electric fuel pump fails you can kick start it by rapping the tank with a hammer. |
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| Woodie | Sep 4 2011, 05:39 PM Post #32 |
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Seems "Millenium Falcon" would be a foregone conclusion. Welcome, and congratulations, we're all jealous. |
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| bogs | Sep 6 2011, 12:03 PM Post #33 |
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Duct tape heals all wounds
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Actually, along with the beastie name, Chewbaca came to mind for me
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| crankcase | Nov 12 2011, 12:27 AM Post #34 |
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Super jelous , love the econorocket concept . I've had one of these cars in my sights for years . I can almost taste it . I just wish I had the extra cash.... Any new pics or updates ?
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| Jittney | Jan 21 2012, 10:56 PM Post #35 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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Sorry about that....got the car running on his thread http://geometroforum.com/topic/4492242/2/#new Got a call from Hans last night. "Mom, the car just quit running while I was going 40mph." He was a couple of miles away. Tow truck brought it home. Crank, no start. Camshaft and timing belt are turning. Check coil....no spark from coil wire when held close to the frame. Note: Hans has had problems turning the key in the ignition last 2 days. He has to slightly pull it out and pull it towards him, and then he can turn it. The 'door open' buzzer is intermittent, and I can wiggle wires under the steering column to affect it. However, I cannot see the any loose wires.....yet. Hans is working 2 shifts today, so he was frustrated at the little time he had to check the car. I was ill (fell asleep sitting up) and it's 20 below outside, so I spent little time out there ![]() Tomorrow, while it is light, we plan to look closer. Relevant Reading (will check that ground tomorrow)Sprint Turbo Won't Start |
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| Memphis metro | Jan 21 2012, 10:57 PM Post #36 |
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Hope you feel better soon. |
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| metroschultz | Jan 22 2012, 10:01 AM Post #37 |
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Please just call me; "Schultz"
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Me too. ![]() This may help; Take the connector loose from the distributor, and, with a quick jab, ground the signal wire. I usually do both just because I am too lazy to look it up in the schematics. This will fool the coil and you will get a spark as long as the rest of the system is good. If you can't fool it to give you a spark, you may have a different issue. My car died on the highway a few days ago and the distributor had exploded inside. |
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| Jittney | Jan 22 2012, 10:38 AM Post #38 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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Thanks Blue Rhino and Schultz. I appreciate the advice. I have been studying....not sure I'm making any headway. Which is why I'm posting. Ideally, I'd have a heated garage, lots of time, and good step by step instructions. Instead, it's cold, Hans wants his car running, and I'm struggling to make heads or tails of this stuff. Chevy Sprint Turbo Distributor Diagram
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| t3ragtop | Jan 22 2012, 10:41 AM Post #39 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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i hate to contradict a good fellow, but don't arbitrarily take any wire to ground on the turbo3 wiring. the module in the distributor is different from a non-turbo car and it only feeds the ecu. you never want to take a pin on the ecu to chassis ground as the sensor circuits are all fed by a regulated power supply that has a ground point dedicated solely to the sensors which "floats" above chassis ground. on the turbo3 the ecu reads the pulses from the distributor as part of the starting sequence. if it doesn't see those pulses it shuts down the output to the fuel pump. also, if it doesn't get a pulse, it won't send a signal to fire the ignitor module (which in turn pulses a ground to the coil primary) so a spark won't be generated. the fuel pump failure is a fairly common thing on these old cars. if you put 12 vdc on the pink wire that runs to the fuel pump and you don't hear it running, that's a good indication that the fuel pump is pooched. also, don't replace the fuel pump with anything except a known turbo3/ gt replacement pump. a fuel pump for a standard normally aspirated car won't keep up, the engine will run poorly, and the engine will eventually fry it's pistons/ rings due to fuel starvation. i highly suggest that you guys find a copy of the mk1 factory service manual (i'm pretty sure that you'll find that over at teamswift) and use it's diagnostics flow chart to check things out. the turbo3 systems are significantly different from the normally aspirated systems and they are really touchy about certain things (like grounding errors.) a slight touch of a wire to ground can smoke the ecu or another really hard to find control "box" like the ignitor control. i'm not as knowledgeable on the mk1 turbo3 cars as i've always preferred the newer mk2 turbo3 gear. again, you're likely to find more help from the mk1 turbo3 guys over at teamswift. look for jv&s, phil n ed, and the canadian guys. they have a dedicated mk1 section and a turbo3 section expressly for your car. look at the top of the topic list in each section for the faq, how to, and manual info. |
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| t3ragtop | Jan 22 2012, 10:54 AM Post #40 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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link to the mk1 turbo3 supplement. http://www3.telus.net/public/skunka/mk1.pdf look on page 6c-17 for the beginning of the fuel system and diagnostic section. |
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| Jittney | Jan 22 2012, 11:03 AM Post #41 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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Thanks t3ragtop. I will check out teamswift's information. We do have a 1987 Sprint Service Manual. If there is a Turbo manual, I will buy it. For more info, I'm going to http://arrc.ebscohost.com (I have open access here in Alaska) I was going to Test the Ignition Coil, since that was not sparking yesterday. I didn't because I didn't get the cover off. Since it's so cold, things tend to snap and break....and are not replaceable. The neat thing about the Sprint Turbo is..... there aren't many. The bad thing about the Sprint Turbo is......parts are scarce. |
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| Jittney | Jan 22 2012, 11:09 AM Post #42 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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Got it downloaded to my desktop. Many thanks ![]() Edit: I'll be reading for awhile... then church (prayer will be 'I know I probably don't deserve it, but would you puhleeeze HELP ME?') Hans and I will be outside working on the car after noon (that's 4pm EST) Edited by Jittney, Jan 22 2012, 11:16 AM.
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| Memphis metro | Jan 22 2012, 11:34 AM Post #43 |
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A cracked distributor cap will cause one to quit while going down the road. How old is the distributor cap? Pickup coil test, Disconnect red and white wires from ignition module. Measure resistance across wires. Specs are between 130-190 ohms. If not between those numbers, replace pickup coil. There is a test for the ignition module but it requires juggling a test light, your battery and a ohm meter at the same time. The ignition coil could be bad but they are not usually the ignition problem. Most of the time it is the pickup coil or the module. |
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| Jittney | Jan 22 2012, 12:38 PM Post #44 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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Thanks to the Turbo Supplement, I see the mystery to checking codes. There is a switch under the dash on the driver's side. I immediately bundled up and headed out. Temp is up to a balmy 12 degrees.....AWESOME!!! Took the battery charger along and hooked it up. Poked my head up under the dash (after failing to feel the switch) and found it!!! ![]() Above picture shows it turned off....had to toggle it forward. Checked for codes...and it came up with 12 (all clear) So, I tried starting the car and then it switched to 41 (No signal from ignition coil for 2 seconds with engine starter switch turned on) Moving along to the Diagnostics Step 1. Does "CHECK ENGINE' light on instrument panel turn ON when ignition switch is turned ON (with engine stopped)? Answer: YES Step 2. Does 'CHECK ENGINE' light stay ON or begin to flash when diagnosis switch is turned ON with engine stopped and ignition switch at ON position? Answer: Flashes Step 3: Read 'CHECK ENGINE' light flashing pattern (Refer to '2. Diagnostic Code') Step 4. Is the code '12' (Normal)? (I will follow this thread just to rule it out) Answer: Yes Step A1 Areas subject to self-diagnosis function are all in good condition. That is, trouble has occurred somewhere else Step A2 Proceed to Step 4 'Symptom Diagnosis' Symptom: Hard or No starting (Engine cranks OK) * Open or short circuit, or defect in injector, cold start injector, air valve or starter injector time switch. * Fuel pressure out of specifications (Check pressure regulator, fuel filter, fuel pump and line and the wiring, fuel pump relay) * Clogged air cleaner element * Starter signal not fed to ECM * Air leakage in air intake system Other option Answer: NO Step B1 Referring to Diagnostic Code chart, identify code by flashing pattern Step B2 Check area corresponding to above identified code for 1. Connection 2. Part Condition 3. Wire harness (open/short circuit) Answer BAD or GOOD.....have to test the IGNITION COIL and then proceed. I have the information to test the coil, so that will be next...after I coax the cap off the terminal. I appreciate the support here. Iceman lives a few miles away, and may see this and wander over (now that it's warmer), but I am pleased to have gotten this far. Hans is still sleeping....ah the life a teenager when there is no school or work to rip him out of bed. |
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| Jittney | Jan 22 2012, 01:52 PM Post #45 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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As expected there is no voltage to the Ignition Coil. Resistance (I hear mwebb saying 'resistance is futile) across the coil terminals with negative wire disconnected is 1.6. After church we will track down the open between the battery and the ignition coil. I'll need to check the wiring diagram to see what colors we are looking for. Cheers
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, love the econorocket concept
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7:22 PM Jul 10