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| 87 Chevy Sprint Turbo; what a blast | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Aug 31 2011, 09:22 PM (20,436 Views) | |
| Memphis metro | Jan 22 2012, 09:30 PM Post #76 |
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Just so you know here is a metro distributor to illustrate checking the air gap. Yours should be similar. Before you do this step though, you should start from square one with somenone and stick with it, until problem is located or diagnostic chart runs out. ![]() Feeler guage. They are a cheap tool and can be used to gap spark plugs as well. Designed to check and set small gap tolerances. ![]() |
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| Jittney | Jan 23 2012, 11:41 PM Post #77 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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Thanks, Blue Rhino. I got a new set of feeler gauges today. Not sure what happened to my last set. Also, I have not seen that part on the turbo yet. Update: I sat down and went through the diagnostics and saw that I had missed something. I had measured the resistance on the ignition coil at 1.6. The specs call for 1.33 = 1.55 ...so we were close enough to 1.55 to work...maybe However, checking the diagram, I see a knock control listed. This reminds me of something I'd read.....hmmmm....go back to the diagnostics. If the ignition coil has to work with a knock control sensor, then the ignition coil specs call for resistance of 1.08 - 1.32. So, the ignition coil in Hans' car needed replacing. I ordered the ignition coil today....locally....and it didn't work. Why? We checked resistance of the new part.....2.0 It must be that the new parts guy got us a wrong part. We can take it back, but we still need the right part. NAPA was still open....we zipped over and asked an experienced parts person. Nope, they had no such part for sale...special order....take time...$100. I had already checked that Rock auto shows one for under $20. We'll order from there and take the wrong ignition coil back to the local store. Edited for clarity. |
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| Memphis metro | Jan 24 2012, 12:03 AM Post #78 |
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What part did you buy today? If indeed your problem is a firing problem then you are most likely going to find your problem under this black cover and its going to be the pickup coil.
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| Jittney | Jan 24 2012, 12:19 AM Post #79 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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I bought an ignition coil today. The diagnostic code was 41..for ignition coil....which tested out of specs. It will be returned to the parts store...since it was the wrong ignition coil. NAPA IC12 I just ordered the correct one from rockauto. I also ordered a pickup coil. Rockauto did not have the ignition module.....only the connector for it. The 2 parts (ignition coil and pickup coil) should be here by Friday. |
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| Memphis metro | Jan 24 2012, 12:41 AM Post #80 |
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I am thinking your car is a 88 model. My information doesnt show the fuel injected turbo but a carburator on the 87 model. The 87 model uses a ignition module and the air gap can be checked at the distributor. The 88 model uses a igniter and there is no air gap adjustment at the distributor. One thing it says to check is fuse number 8 in the fuse panel. Have you check it? |
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| Jittney | Jan 24 2012, 12:45 AM Post #81 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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1987 Chevrolet Sprint VIN: jg1mr2123hk763528Engine: 1.0L I3 10.2 Style / Body: Hatchback 2DCountry of Assembly: Japan VIN 212 = EFI turbo If it had 215, then would have been 2BBL gas Note: post #40 t3ragtop has the link to the pdf for the 87 Sprint Turbo Supplement. Page 3 has the VIN ID info I'm using the diagnostics from this supplement to troubleshoot Hans' car. Edited by Jittney, Jan 24 2012, 12:58 AM.
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| Memphis metro | Jan 24 2012, 01:01 AM Post #82 |
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Have you checked fuse number 8. 20 amp fuse? I am going to suspect it is going to be that pickup coil under that black cover. I dont know why my information shows differant between the 87 and 88 model but that is nothing new. I see what you have looking under the 88 year model. Disregard the information about checking the airgap on your distributor. It does not apply to that distributor. Pickup coil resistance shoudl be between 900-1100 ohms. |
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| Jittney | Jan 24 2012, 01:16 AM Post #83 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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I'll let Hans know about fuses 8 and 20. We have not peeked under the black cover. We were focused on the ignition coil, since the diagnostics headed us that way. However, we did replace the cap/rotor, per suggestions here. I ordered the pickup coil, on the offchance that it might need replacing. If time permits tomorrow, we'll see about looking under the cover. I'll take a picture. ![]() |
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| Memphis metro | Jan 24 2012, 01:18 AM Post #84 |
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Only fuse 8, it is a 20amp fuse. You can test the ohms of the pickup coil and see if they fall in range as well before you go thru the trouble to replace it. I dont know what the cap looked like but you sure needed the rotor. |
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| Jittney | Jan 24 2012, 01:23 AM Post #85 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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Ah....I see my misread of 8 and 20. Got it. 20 amp fuse. The distributor cap was nice and clean and had no cracks. Pickup coil was on closeout, so it wasn't a terrible expense. I caught your disregard checking the air gap. Thanks.
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| t3ragtop | Jan 24 2012, 07:47 PM Post #86 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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don't confuse the turbo3 with any non-turbo mk1. the controls are very, very different. there is a difference in the distributor, the ignition module in the distributor, and the complete control set. i was considering your problem and it dawned on me that the ignition module in the distributor may have broken a wire. the mk1 turbo3 uses a vacuum operated retard/ advance can on the side of the distributor to physically rotate a breaker plate which has the module on it under the cap and dust shield. heat and years of movement work hardens the copper wires and they eventually fail. you should check from the connector on the distributor for resistance/ continuity of the module. also, you are correct that the ignitor module (i think it's mounted to the left strut housing) does a lot of the work for the ignition system. it provides anti-knock control and actually fires the coil. if it goes away (and they are prone to failure, usually from heat or exposure to the elements in the engine bay) the coil won't hit a lick. the coil for the turbo3 is a different part from the n/a g10 as you have noticed. i've collected a few spare g10t coils because of that. the turbo engine needs a stronger spark, the wind from the turbo can literally blow out a weak combustion event. i have noticed that all the turbo3 coils have a blue plastic top beneath the output tower. if it turns out that you need a turbo3 coil, pm me. i also have a spare oem knock sensor, i use a bosch sensor on my modified mk2 g10t engines. if it turns out to be the ignitor control box, you'll have to find one from a mk1 turbo3 enthusiast as they are no longer available as new replacement parts. i've tried to back off from posting as you had several people trying to help at one time and i didn't want you to be overwhelmed. always keep in mind that the turbo3 is nearly totally different from the normally aspirated 3 bangers of it's era. from ordering parts to troubleshooting the control system, don't confuse service manual data from a non-turbo model with this car. |
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| Memphis metro | Jan 24 2012, 08:07 PM Post #87 |
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At first, the information I was looking at was turbo but must have been early 87 model. The ignition system must have switched mid year or the information is not accurate because under 87 model ignition system turbo it showed no igniter or knock sensor setup. I switched to a 88 model and it shows the turbo distributor and from what I see it has no module within the distributor but only the pickup coil within the distributor. This is where the igniter comes in mounted on the left fender. To clarify for sure what she has, if she has the igniter located on her left fender between the strut tower and battery then for sure she has no module within the distriubtor. |
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| Jittney | Jan 25 2012, 12:39 AM Post #88 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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Long day and looks like it's an even longer day for Hans, as he's not made it home yet. My Harbor Freight DVOM (all of $3) has served me well, but the probes quietly fell off the cables without a whimper. My oldest son, an electrician, was nice enough to drop off his Fluke 117. So, I've been practicing with it. The ignition coil (now out of the car and on the kitchen counter) has OL (open lead) reading across the terminals (specs are 1.08-1.32) Reading between the high tension wire terminal and the postive terminal is 16.0 (specs are 11.6-15.8) Clearly the ignition coil is toast. I thought it was interesting that it's oil filled. Below are front/back pictures identifying the ignition coil. ![]() ![]() And this is the knock control by the driver's strut tower. ![]() |
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| Memphis metro | Jan 25 2012, 12:49 AM Post #89 |
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Thats actually the igniter and knock control together. |
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| t3ragtop | Jan 25 2012, 06:07 AM Post #90 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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jittney, if you need a turbo3 coil just let me know and i'll grab one from the garage. chances are slim that you'll be able to source one from a parts house that isn't a coil for a normally aspirated car. |
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